Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just wondering if anyone has a say on the Return Flow type FMIC that are popping up all over the place?

I have been searching around for a decent sized FMIC without going over the top and these have caught my eye due to the fact of no need to cut my REO bar or any other nasty holes in my baby.

Only problems I can see with them at a glance is the fact the return pipe sits VERY low and that nasty bend they often have towards the end of the return pipe. And possibly the sharp change of direction for the air to have to go back towards the turbo.

Just incase I didnt explain it well enough heres a pic of the kit im interested in.

4394306921_1bfd1b69e4_o.jpg

Anyone got some more info on these?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/310124-return-flow/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

If you 're worried about how much power you can achieve, you shouldn't be.

My car made 250rwkw with one of these, plus, it has excellent response - meaning that the curvature of the return pipe still allows the air to achieve a smooth flow. The one in the pic is a blitz so it should be fairly efficient.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/310124-return-flow/#findComment-5110147
Share on other sites

i have one of these...

you will probably have to trim your reo a bit, but it's a small price to pay for not having to attack your inner guard with a hole saw!

also re the height clearance, the core is smaller than the usual aftermarket coolers out there, so it doesn't sit ridiculously low (there are only a few light scuffs on mine, in contrast to my mashed up front bar)

do recommend something like this :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/310124-return-flow/#findComment-5110151
Share on other sites

Not worried about power since I know that beautiful Blitz would flow more than what a RB20 would ever make, just trying to find out info about them from anyone who has one.

Response is all Im after at the end of the day, and Im leaning towards the Blitz ATM due to the fact its only $780 and its Blitz so you know its quality. Or a HPI kit of the same style.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/310124-return-flow/#findComment-5110155
Share on other sites

i currently have a black Blitz return flow on my R33, makes an easy 255rwkw, with the cooler having plenty more left in it. A few people have said they pushed 300rwkw through good quality return flow coolers.

As you said Blitz generally make good stuff, so buy it and enjoy it!!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/310124-return-flow/#findComment-5110232
Share on other sites

Thanks heaps for all the replies guys, just the sort of feed back I was looking for.

Also for the ARC side mount, what sort of power would they be able to handle and not really hit its limits? Trying too make sure all the supporting mods are capable of handling much more than what I want to get out of the engine.

Chasing around 300rwhp with as much response as possible.

EDIT - Holy hell just had a quick search for the ARC SMIC for a HCR32 just under $1200, think I'll be sticking with the Blitz at a much more pocket friendly $780

Edited by R32 DORI DORI
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/310124-return-flow/#findComment-5110405
Share on other sites

I bought a blitz cs kit and even though i not the most mechanicly minded i still could fit it. I did have to take a fair bit off the stock bumper as you could see. ( better than chopping your chasis though )

Edited by Kenna802
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/310124-return-flow/#findComment-5110854
Share on other sites

yes you have to trim the reo to fit the Blitz LM/CS.

And no, the return pipe doesn't sit low. Mine is higher than the factory lip.

And, the flow actually goes through the bottom pipe 1st and then swings into the FMIC :down: Not the other way around. (not that it matters.. just saying :P )

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/310124-return-flow/#findComment-5110944
Share on other sites

I bought a blitz cs kit and even though i not the most mechanicly minded i still could fit it. I did have to take a fair bit off the stock bumper as you could see. ( better than chopping your chasis though )

Would rather shave the front bar than anthing else. Looks really nice though, pretty much what im looking for, even though the FMIC will be blacked out before it goes in <3 Sleepers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/310124-return-flow/#findComment-5110954
Share on other sites

I always thought about blacking my Blitz out too.. im scared, if i dont like it its kinda hard to go back again..

Whats the saying? 'once you go black you never go back' lol

Im not worried about going back, Black R32 on Black rims. Keeping as low profile in the crowd as possible, not that the Bright red stove tops dont give it away every single time at night.

Plus what it more sexy than a blacked out skyline?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/310124-return-flow/#findComment-5110967
Share on other sites

ARC is expensive because it is high quality japan made

not paying out blitz but yeah ARC make good products

For the power Im chasing I doubt I would see any difference between ARC or Blitz, or even a cheap Cooling Pro FMIC at these levels.

ARC do make brillant products but they are still very pricey, not too fond of paying big just for a name...other than the ARC Airbox. More than happy to fork out the 400 bucks for one of them.

On a side note, anyone know off hand if QLD comes under the same sort of rulings for intake mods as Vic? currently have a pod filter with a custom heat sheild made up.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/310124-return-flow/#findComment-5110974
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • First up, I wouldn't use PID straight up for boost control. There's also other control techniques that can be implemented. And as I said, and you keep missing the point. It's not the ONE thing, it's the wrapping it up together with everything else in the one system that starts to unravel the problem. It's why there are people who can work in a certain field as a generalist, IE a IT person, and then there are specialists. IE, an SQL database specialist. Sure the IT person can build and run a database, and it'll work, however theyll likely never be as good as a specialist.   So, as said, it's not as simple as you're thinking. And yes, there's a limit to the number of everything's in MCUs, and they run out far to freaking fast when you're designing a complex system, which means you have to make compromises. Add to that, you'll have a limited team working on it, so fixing / tweaking some features means some features are a higher priority than others. Add to that, someone might fix a problem around a certain unrelated feature, and that change due to other complexities in the system design, can now cause a new, unforseen bug in something else.   The whole thing is, as said, sometimes split systems can work as good, and if not better. Plus when there's no need to spend $4k on an all in one solution, to meet the needs of a $200 system, maybe don't just spout off things others have said / you've read. There's a lot of misinformation on the internet, including in translated service manuals, and data sheets. Going and doing, so that you know, is better than stating something you read. Stating something that has been read, is about as useful as an engineering graduate, as all they know is what they've read. And trust me, nearly every engineering graduate is useless in the real world. And add to that, if you don't know this stuff, and just have an opinion, maybe accept what people with experience are telling you as information, and don't keep reciting the exact same thing over and over in response.
    • How complicated is PID boost control? To me it really doesn't seem that difficult. I'm not disputing the core assertion (specialization can be better than general purpose solutions), I'm just saying we're 30+ years removed from the days when transistor budgets were in the thousands and we had to hem and haw about whether there's enough ECC DRAM or enough clock cycles or the interrupt handler can respond fast enough to handle another task. I really struggle to see how a Greddy Profec or an HKS EVC7 or whatever else is somehow a far superior solution to what you get in a Haltech Nexus/Elite ECU. I don't see OEMs spending time on dedicated boost control modules in any car I've ever touched. Is there value to separating out a motor controller or engine controller vs an infotainment module? Of course, those are two completely different tasks with highly divergent requirements. The reason why I cite data sheets, service manuals, etc is because as you have clearly suggested I don't know what I'm doing, can't learn how to do anything correctly, and have never actually done anything myself. So when I do offer advice to people I like to use sources that are not just based off of taking my word for it and can be independently verified by others so it's not just my misinterpretation of a primary source.
    • That's awesome, well done! Love all these older Datsun / Nissans so rare now
    • As I said, there's trade offs to jamming EVERYTHING in. Timing, resources etc, being the huge ones. Calling out the factory ECU has nothing to do with it, as it doesn't do any form of fancy boost control. It's all open loop boost control. You mention the Haltech Nexus, that's effectively two separate devices jammed into one box. What you quote about it, is proof for that. So now you've lost flexibility as a product too...   A product designed to do one thing really well, will always beat other products doing multiple things. Also, I wouldn't knock COTS stuff, you'd be surprised how many things are using it, that you're probably totally in love with As for the SpaceX comment that we're working directly with them, it's about the type of stuff we're doing. We're doing design work, and breaking world firsts. If you can't understand that I have real world hands on experience, including in very modern tech, and actually understand this stuff, then to avoid useless debates where you just won't accept fact and experience, from here on, it seems you'd be be happy I (and possibly anyone with knowledge really) not reply to your questions, or input, no matter how much help you could be given to help you, or let you learn. It seems you're happy reading your data sheets, factory service manuals, and only want people to reinforce your thoughts and points of view. 
    • I don't really understand because clearly it's possible. The factory ECU is running on like a 4 MHz 16-bit processor. Modern GDI ECUs have like 200 MHz superscalar cores with floating point units too. The Haltech Nexus has two 240 MHz CPU cores. The Elite 2500 is a single 80 MHz core. Surely 20x the compute means adding some PID boost control logic isn't that complicated. I'm not saying clock speed is everything, but the requirements to add boost control to a port injection 6 cylinder ECU are really not that difficult. More I/O, more interrupt handlers, more working memory, etc isn't that crazy to figure out. SpaceX if anything shows just how far you can get arguably doing things the "wrong" way, ie x86 COTS running C++ on Linux. That is about as far away from the "correct" architecture as it gets for a real time system, but it works anyways. 
×
×
  • Create New...