Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i've been resulting to disconnecting the battery whenever i get to my destination because it drains it within a few hours. the clock, radio, wipers and mirrors just stay on when the ignition is off, i unplugged the stereo but this made no difference

battery was changed just last week.

any ideas what it could be? do they all run off the same circuit?

thanks

Al

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/310134-power-drain-33gtst/
Share on other sites

i had this same problem but i wouldnt loose charge in a matter of hrs mine was more like 2 days as in if i didnt use the car everyday it would go flat... supposedly by bootlight was draining power even when closed and not on. Removed boot bulb and it was fixed

i've been resulting to disconnecting the battery whenever i get to my destination because it drains it within a few hours. the clock, radio, wipers and mirrors just stay on when the ignition is off, i unplugged the stereo but this made no difference

battery was changed just last week.

any ideas what it could be? do they all run off the same circuit?

thanks

Al

hey Al

I'd be havn a look at the back of the Ignition Switch for any 'Less than Standard' Wiring, if not try around the fuse box'z

also check the radio's wiring ( behind the plug) someone may have joined the 'constant' and 'Acc'

cheerz

i've been resulting to disconnecting the battery whenever i get to my destination because it drains it within a few hours. the clock, radio, wipers and mirrors just stay on when the ignition is off, i unplugged the stereo but this made no difference

battery was changed just last week.

any ideas what it could be? do they all run off the same circuit?

thanks

Al

you have dodgy wires, first look at the radio, to see if a "loopback" is wired , cig lighter is a common one ,the power your describing is looping back into the ignition switch side of things, does your fan come on too ?

its getting power from the opposite side of the ignition switch to have the ability to keep things on after the door is open and key is out ?

could be a stuck relay on the alarm ? or if the battery was replaced they might not of hooked up all the wires, look around the battery for dangling wires, they might be to charge a relay on a dodgy install?

really hard to say without digging under the dash and battery area... but dodgy exists somewhere ..lol

small chance your ignition switch is dead and cross shorted behind it

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The old manifold was quite under the GTR strut brace.  The new manifold is quite [unknown] the GTR strut brace. The GTR strut brace was needed to clear the bonnet vents. The Old strut brace will almost certainly clear the new manifold, but not the bonnet vents. The old strut brace will almost certainly clear the new manifold, and the new bonnet without vents. But I am hoping the GTR strut brace clears the new manifold :p
    • On the bright side, at least you knew that it happened and remedied before anything happened. A friend of mine just took his Fiat 124 to a shop for an oil change and they didn't tighten the oil filter housing properly. 4.5 quarts spewed out and even after refilling + tightening the cap the engine has a tick now.
    • So, more pain. The FAST manifold is a little larger than the stocker. This is problematic because there really wasn't much clearance to begin with, so going from 'barely enough' well into 'no' is sad based on the external dimensions of the thing, even though where it bolts to the head is the same. Result is the fuel rails sit a good 25mm higher, and this is a bit of an issue with the wiring that runs behind the motor, and the fuel lines, and everything else. When pushing the manifold on, it required a huge amount of force to crush wiring looms to fit it, sensors like the MAP sensor are about 1mm from the firewall, and the FPR just has to bend ABS lines to be forced into place. After some brainstorming and some sad drinking, the loom for some reason ran from the grommet behind the ABS sensor, then to the driver side head, then back to the passenger side head. So all of this was pulled back and stripped, a few wires cut and rejoined, so that the 'branch' was now on the passenger side's head as below: Before you basically couldn't see anything behind the driver head. This is much improved! The MAP sensor is now pointing up (instead of at the firewall) Brackets have been made up for the rail. The rails are for a LS1, the manifold is designed around a LS2 as it's base. Which of course has slightly different bracketry and water pump clearance, hence the mods people need to do. Should be hopefully mounted tonight. I spent money on a new FPR that is slightly more compact than my Turbosmart FPR1200. The gauge has also been moved to the rail. There's also apparently an ORB to AN Union instead of the adapter, because the ~25mm of the current adapter is going to make the difference. Provided this all goes together and arrives today, it'll be the totally not stressful attempt to start it.
    • This seems like a pointless exercise. There is no E30 availability. Ongoing availability of E85 should not be assumed. Flex-fuel is the only sensible approach, so you can use E85 when and where you can get it, 98 when that's al you can get, and anything in between as you fill it up and drain it down. And if that means replacing the pumps, fitting a flex capable sensor/ECU/whatever has to be done to these Renault shitboxen, then.....so be it?
×
×
  • Create New...