Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys, when ur talkin about the sway bars is it the bars underneith the car or is it the one in the engine(strut??) anyways im lookin at pickin one up (whiteline adj for 190) and would like to know which of the two would be better to upgrade, the one under the car or in the enginebay and the front or the rear. im guessing the fronts as its rwd.

as for the aftermarket hicas bar...rezz as a "Attain - HICAS Cancel Rod" goin for $166 bucks accordin to the calculator...hehe. dunno if it comes with the electronic bypass thingy for the 33 though.

Go for the swaybar (under the car) first if you want less body roll. the strut brace won't make much different for body roll, it will only increase chasis rigidity for high speed cornering, but most of the time during general driving you won't feel the difference with or without the strut brace.

Better to upgrade both front & rear swaybars, it will allow u to tune understeer & oversteer characteristic of your car. In theory if u have stiffer rear swaybar and softer front (or the other way around), ur chasis could twist during hard cornering because of different body roll front & rear... I would imagine it wouldn't be too nice

No worries Sydneykid. The JMS one for $195 isn't listed as being suited for R33's. I found that K's Online Garage (as (B1) MR_fanny mentioned) has the cheapest at $166 + postage. Gotta find out from Rezz if SAU members get a discount.

thanks rs73....i was thinkin of the front whiteline adjustables and the rear "dori dori" swaybar on K'sgarage. what do u guys think of this combo?? come to think of it if i get the whiteline rear adj then all i need to do is set it stiffest when needed??....hmmm also is it fairly easy to adjust the swaybars?? would i need a hoist? and does it put my wheels out of alignment everytime u adjust it??

Hi B1, to adjust the stabiliser bars I jack up the rear of the car (under the diff) and remove the wheels. Undo 1 bolt each side on the stabiliser bar adjuster. Move the link the number of holes you want, and replace the bolt. Simple, hardest part is jacking the car up.

Adjusting stabiliser bars has nothing to do with wheel alignment. So no, you don't have to get it aligned every time you adjust the bars.

Hope that helps

  • 1 month later...

It looks good!!

I didn't put it on myself, Centerline Suspension in Thomastown did it for me, but from your pics it looks right.

The adjustible caster rod bush on the front does come in the bushes only. You still use your standard caster rod arm.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just checked in first post and you should be able to bring it home November this year, right? I'm amazed you made it through four years of this. As hard as it feels now the rest will go by in a breeze in hindsight, I'm sure.
    • Realized I haven't been back here in a while. Still here, still alive, still waiting for the car.  I went back again the only time last year from Oct-Nov for R's Meeting and drove it around some more, including a few laps on Fuji Speedway(in the wet, sadly). The car still feels good, but have a couple small things to address. I've been getting more parts but have slowed down still, and most of the bigger purchases are now out of the way. I find myself getting impatient more and more when it comes to getting started on this project; it's quite hard for me not being able to really dive in and start making this car my own because it's halfway across the world. At times it doesn't even really feel like I own one of these. Haven't really been motivated or had the desire to document the last trip on here or social media for, well, reasons... but here's some pics...it's also still alive and well as you can see: I've narrowed down to the last large part purchases(anything over $2k) before the engine build to be: 1) Ohlins Road & Tracks 2) ATS Twin Carbon clutch 3) Endless BBK with some custom options and 4) Kansai Service carbon driveshaft I don't think the budget exists for all of these this year, but I'll try for one or two items I think. Though, every time I look at my spreadsheet I sigh, shake my head, and get depressed just that little bit more.  'til later.
    • It's a stunning location!  I've been to NZ twice but haven't made it to the North Island yet.  Definitely on the cards but the South Island is hard to tear yourself away from too... Looking forward to see what you can wring out of it once you can get it to hold together!  Be awesome to get a low 11 or even sneaking into the high 10's pass out of it.  That's a bloody quick car that most people will never experience in their life.  Enjoy!
    • Nominally yes but I’m not really at that stage yet. Outsourcing to Japan is also a relatively good deal at the moment because their currency has devalued much more against the USD.  You would assume this but a lot has changed from the pandemic. Mechanics are in short supply and demand for fixing old cars has gone up from the cost of new cars. 250-300 USD/hr is not an unusual shop labor rate in California and you’re paying that regardless of whether the guy is competent or not. Coworkers have been quoted 3000 USD for a water pump and thermostat at a dealer on an N54. Oil changes went from ~75 USD to 150 on fairly normal cars like Civics. The cost of the oil and filter hasn’t even kept up with inflation.
    • The downside to that is that the cost of everything, particularly labour, is significantly higher here than it is over there in the Disunited States of Slavery. You can hire 3 tradesmen over there for just the Ranger Raptor allowance of a single 3rd year apprentice over here.
×
×
  • Create New...