Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok guys, basically, I know very little in terms of suspension. I've got a 33GTR with the usual coilovers and Whiteline front and rear adjustable swaybars. Also I have the Whiteline front and rear camber bush kits and castor kit. I'm hitting the track more and more regularly (Mallala) and want to throw a few dollars into the suspension department as I'm putting out pretty decent power (~320kw) Trouble is I have no idea where to start, what to buy and why to buy it. Obviously I want the car set up for grip, not drift, I already have semi slicks but just want that little bit better handling; just not sure how to get it. Any suggestions?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/310353-help-me-set-up-my-gtr/
Share on other sites

Yes. Start by learning more about how suspension works. That isn't a smart arsed answer & probably not the one you are after but I would seriously suggest you try & learn about car/suspension behaviour as a start point

It will help you get more out of what you have & better guide you on what to buy in future.

what are your wheel alignment settings (toe, camber, castor, ride height - front and rear) and what is it specifically about the handling that you want to improve (ie does it understeer, oversteer, and where: corner entry, mid corner or corner exit)? Also what tyres are you running, how new, and what pressures do you run them at?

I know, lots of questions but it can help narrow things down.

Also, have you had much driver training/advice? Its funny how often approach to a corner makes a difference to the problems you are having

what are your wheel alignment settings (toe, camber, castor, ride height - front and rear) and what is it specifically about the handling that you want to improve (ie does it understeer, oversteer, and where: corner entry, mid corner or corner exit)? Also what tyres are you running, how new, and what pressures do you run them at?

I know, lots of questions but it can help narrow things down.

Also, have you had much driver training/advice? Its funny how often approach to a corner makes a difference to the problems you are having

Cheers for the replies guys...

As for alignment settings, I've set the car up to match the numbers given by SydneyKid in his Whiteline group buy. I'm running Toyo R888's front and rear also. I fitted front and rear swaybars to the car this week and took it for a little drive in the hills. It definitely feels a lot 'sharper' in turn in and I think was a good investment.

As for what I want to improve, there's no 'bad' areas really, I just want to maximise what I can get out of the car by messing around with the suspension. Just like there's nothing wrong with a car at 280kw but pushing for 300 if you know what I mean.

As for the driver training. I've now participated in 4 John Bowe training days so while I'm not Schumacher, I'm a fairly competent driver and understand lines and apexes and the effects of not taking them correctly

Hi Luke,

A bit off topic but what brakes are you running? First thing I did after GTR purchase was to put better brakes, first trying better pads & fluid on stock rotors & calipers, then big brake kit as per avatar pic

<-----

Also would be interested to know what approx times you are lapping with the semis & 320 at the wheels. Last time out I ran 205kw + street rubber, next time will be on semis plus 285kw so am expecting 2-3 seconds off.

As for alignment settings, I've set the car up to match the numbers given by SydneyKid in his Whiteline group buy. I'm running Toyo R888's front and rear also.

better tyres will help. I've run a few different types of semis over the years, and my current R888s have been the least impressive of the lot. RE55S are very popular on GTRs for a reason. Dunlop DZ03 are faster, but also more expensive.

you will also benefit from more aggressive alignment settings than those recommended for street cars in the group buy.

Cheers guys!

semislickR32, running standard calipers, slotted rotors DS2500 pads and Motul RBF 660 fluid. Will be looking into a brake upgrade soon though...

hrd-hr30, thanks for the advice, I'll take a look into the RE55s :laugh:

  • 4 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...
semislick what brakes are you running, they look brilliant.

They are a project mu billet racing kit - 4pot on 345mm 2piece rotors ( just fit under my 17s). good on track but noisy on the street.

Still running stocks on the rear.

In retrospect they are total performance overkill and an r34/33 brembo set would've been adequate. But for looks yeah I reckon they are tough. Also 10/10 aussieness with green calipers + gold rims ;)

As said by duncan before, get the wheel alignment sorted. This will make huge differences in handeling characteristics.

If the alignment is as SydneyKid recomends, who am I to argue?

If you can invest in a tyre pressure gauge and tyre pyrometer this will help too.

Basic wheel alignments are a good place to start but they are very dependent of driver characterists (i.e, how you drive the car)

Find out what tyre pressure the tyres work best and aim for that pressure when the tyres are hot.

A big tip I have found is start off with the simple basics, ie tyre pressures, and get more complex if you have more problems.

If the car feels under/over steery, adjust tyre press first by adding or lowering pressures in the tyres to add or reduce grip at one end of the car (its not quite THAT simple, as adjustments at one end of the car will change characteristics at the other end too, but its a good place to start).

From there you can use a tyre pyrometer to see how effectivly the tyres contact patch is to the road. In other words, are you getting as much tyre contacting the road as possible or could you increase grip further?

But if you dont have any problems with the characteristics of the car, why change them? Work bettering yourself as a driver and extracting the most from the car. Once you reach the limit, you will start encountering problems. From there, you'll have to identify where the problem is (as Duncan said). Under or over steer? Corner entry/mid corner/corner exit etc, under brakes? Acceleration?

It it aint broke, dont fix it.Once you have problems, let us know and im sure we can help with something

Edited by GTS4WD

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's odd, it works fine here. Try loading it on a different device or browser? It's Jack Phillips JDM, a Skyline wrecker in Victoria. Not the cheapest, but I have found them helpful to find obscure parts in AU. https://jpjdm.com/shop/index.php
    • Yeah. I second all of the above. The only way to see that sort of voltage is if something is generating it as a side effect of being f**ked up. The other thing you could do would be to put a load onto that 30V terminal, something like a brakelamp globe. See if it pulls the voltage away comepletely or if some or all of it stays there while loaded. Will give you something of an idea about how much danger it could cause.
    • I would say, you've got one hell of an underlying issue there. You're saying, coils were fully unplugged, and the fuse to that circuit was unplugged, and you measured 30v? Either something is giving you some WILD EMI, and that's an induced voltage, OR something is managing to backfeed, AND that something has problems. It could be something like the ECU if it takes power from there, and also gets power from another source IF there's an internal issue in the ECU. The way to check would be pull that fuse, unplug the coils, and then probe the ECU pins. However it could be something else doing it. Additionally, if it is something wired in, and that something is pulsing, IE a PWM circuit and it's an inductive load and doesnt have proper flyback protection, that would also do it. A possibility would be if you have something like a PWM fuel pump, it might be giving flyback voltages (dangerous to stuff!). I'd put the circuit back into its "broken" state, confirm the weird voltage is back, and then one by one unplug devices until that voltage disappears. That's a quick way to find an associated device. Otherwise I'd need to look at the wiring diagrams, and then understand any electrical mods done.   But you really should not be seeing the above issue, and really, it's indicating something is failing, and possibly why the fuse blew to begin with.
    • A lot of what you said there are fair observations and part of why I made that list, to make some of these things (like no advantage between the GSeries and GSeries II at PR2.4 in a lot of cases) however I'm not fully convinced by other comments.  One thing to bare in mind is that compressor flow maps are talking about MASS flow, in terms of the compressor side you shouldn't end up running more or less airflow vs another compressor map for the same advertised flow if all external environmental conditions are equivalent if the compressor efficiency is lower as that advertised mass flow takes that into consideration.   Once the intercooler becomes involved the in-plenum air temperature shouldn't be that different, either... the main thing that is likely to affect the end power is the final exhaust manifold pressure - which *WILL* go up when you run out of compressor efficiency when you run off the map earlier on the original G-Series versus G-Series II as you need to keep the gate shut to achieve similar airflow.    Also, how do you figure response based off surge line?  I've seen people claim that as an absolute fact before but am pretty sure I've seen compressors with worse surge lines actually "stand up" faster (and ironically be more likely to surge), I'm not super convinced - it's really a thing we won't easily be able to determine until people start using them.     There are some things on the maps that actually make me wonder if there is a chance that they may respond no worse... if not BETTER?!  which brings me to your next point... Why G2 have lower max rpm?  Really good question and I've been wondering about this too.  The maximum speed *AND* the compressor maps both look like what I'd normally expect if Garrett had extended the exducers out, but they claim the same inducer and exducer size for the whole range.   If you compare the speed lines between any G and G2 version the G2 speed lines support higher flow for the same compressor speed, kinda giving a pretty clear "better at pumping more air for the same speed" impression. Presumably the exducer includes any extended tip design instead of just the backplate, but nonetheless I'd love to see good pics/measurements of the G2 compressors as everything kinda points to something different about the exducer - specifically that it must be further out from the centerline, which means a lower rpm for the same max tip speed and often also results in higher pressure ratio efficiency, narrower maps, and often actually can result in better spool vs a smaller exducer for the same inducer size... no doubt partly due to the above phenomenon of needing less turbine speed to achieve the same airflow when using a smaller trim. Not sure if this is just camera angle or what, but this kinda looks interesting on the G35 990 compressor tips: Very interested to see what happens when people start testing these, and if we start getting more details about what's different.
×
×
  • Create New...