Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Up for sale is my 1989 Nissan 180Sx that I've also just listed on Car Sales and the vehicle id is 8352616 in Queensland. Hopefully this link works;

http://www.carsales.com.au/used-cars/priva...=1&trecs=60

This car was the January 09 front cover car for HPI magazine and it was the main feature, and poster car.

The car has also featured online at - http://www.180sx.co.uk/community/pedestal/...180sx-pedestal/

I'm after $27,000 or nearest highest offer for it. I've just got the safety certificate today and it has 5 months rego left on it still. The car comes with all of the mod plates and certificates as well as the previous REVS check for encumberance and it is free of any finance whatsoever - I completely own this car, I owe nothing on it. The car has been modified with no expense spared. If you work out how much it would cost to modify something like this the cost would well and truly exceed what I'm asking for it.

The car drives perfect and is free from any faults. It has a great exhaust tone, though it can be made fairly quiet via the Apexi Exhaust Control Valve. This is a clean car (non smoker) and is always garaged and has always been full comp insured through Shannons.

Unfortunately it's for sale as it's time to move on - I'm 32 and it's time to buy a house.

So here's the mod list in case the links don't work for you;

253kw @ 1.3 bar - driven once a week only to do the groceries. Has made 306kw @ 1.8 bar on a different tune previously.

Has done 32,000km's in four years - 5,000km's of which was a drive in procedure at under 80km/hr. - 158,420km on the chasis.

-BODY-

Complete Respray - Two-Tone Black and OEM Gun Metal Grey

Engine Bay Respray in Gloss Black

Genuine Nissan Type-X Front Bar and Parkers

KP Carbon Fiber Front Bumper Air Ducts

Genuine Nissan Front Fenders rolled and flared 20mm

Genuine Rear Fenders rolled

Genuine Nismo Side Skirts

GP Sports Rear Bar

Genuine Nissan Type-X Wing

Genuine Nissan Type-X Tail Lights, Center and Lower Garnish

Genuine Nissan Type-X Carbon Fiber Tail Light Center Garnish Cover

Genuine Nissan Type-X Boot Lock

Sideway Carbon Fiber Exterior B-Pillars

Pivot Headlight Controller - 25%

Sideway Diamond Clear Headlights

Maruta Mtec Wipers

-SUSPENSION and STEERING-

Tein Flex Coilovers - Springrates = 8 Front, 6 Rear.

Tein Front Camber Tops (1 Degree Camber)

Whiteline X-Heavy Duty Adjustable Front Sway Bar 27mm

OEM Rear Sway Bar

Whiteline Superpro Polyurethane Cradle and Suspension Bushes

Cusco Low Mount Engine Strut Brace

Generic Rear Strut Brace

New S14 5 Stud Front Hubs

New S14 Front Lower Control Arms (+10mm Offset)

R32 GTR Rear Subframe

Cusco Front Castor/Tension Rods (7 Degrees Castor)

Cusco Rear Upper Adjustable Camber Arms (1.2 Degrees Camber)

New OEM Steering Rack

Alluminium Steering Bushing

-WHEELS and TYRES-

Work VS KF Wheels;

18x9" Big Caliper R Disk +21D Offset 70mm Dish Front

Federal Performance SS595 215x40xZR18 85W Tyres

18x9.5" Deep Rim O Disk +26C Offset 95mm Dish Rear

Federal Performance SS595 235x40xZR18 91W Tyres

-BRAKES-

FRONT

DBA R34 GT-T 4000 Series Vented Rotors

R34 GT-T Front Calipers

REAR

R32 GTR Rotors

R32 GTR Calipers

Endless CCX Carbon Ceramic Brake Pads All 'Round

Cusco Brake Master Cylinder Stopper

-ENGINE-

RB25DET S1 Skyline R33 GTS-T Engine and Wiring Loom

New OEM Nissan Bearings, Rings and Seals Throughout

Trust 1.8mm Metal Head Gasket

R32 GTS-T Crossmember

Nismo R32 Engine Mounts

Gates Radiator Hoses

Apexi Air Filter

Bosch Z32 Air Flow Meter

Dual Wastegate Port Stainless Steel Top Mount Exhaust Manifold

Garrett GT3082R-1 Ball Bearing Turbo

Turbosmart Pro-Gate 48mm External Wastegate (Vented)

2.5" Intercooler Piping throughout

60x30x7.6cm Tube and Fin Intercooler

Silicon Intakes Intercooler Couplers and T-Bolt Clamps

Greddy Intake Manifold

Greddy Throttle Body Adaptor

Greddy Timing Belt

HKS 256/264 Camshafts

HKS Duralim Exhaust Cam Gear

New Nissan RB25DET S1 Cam Angle Sensor

New R33 GTR N1 Oil Pump

Ryco Z442 Oil Filter

Mobil 1 Full Synthetic Engine Oil

Greddy Type R Blow off Valve (18psi Spring)

NGK BCPR7ES Spark Plugs at .7

Splitfire Coils

Bridgestone Vaccum Hosing

Nismo Oil Cap

HKS 1.1 Bar Radiator Cap

D1 Oil Seperator

Boot mounted Optima Yellow Top D34 Deep Cycle Battery in Enclosed Battery Box

2 Gauge cabling throughout (Three 2 gauge Earth's).

3" Custom Dump Pipe (Heat Wrapped)

3" Trust Power Extreme Exhaust system

3" Apexi Exhaust Control Valve

3" Nissan Patrol Resonator

-FUEL-

Tomei Fuel Pump (278L Per Hour In-tank Replacement) Wired @ 14v

Nismo 740CC Injectors

Nismo Fuel Pressure Regulator

Shell V-Power 98 Premium Unleaded Fuel

-ENGINE MANAGEMENT & MONITORING-

Apexi Power FC with Hand Control

Apexi AVC-R Electronic Boost Controller

Apexi Turbo Timer

Defi BF Series Boost, Oil Temp & Oil Pressure Gauges

Defi Control Unit V2

-ENGINE COOLING-

Nismo Low Temp Thermostat (62.5Deg)

Koyo Type-Z 53mm Aluminium Twin Core Radiator

Pivot Super Temp 2xFan Controller

1 x Spal 12" 1630cfm High Performance Series Radiator Fan

2 x Narva 12V 40 Amp Resistor Packed Relays

Motul Radiator Coolant

Redline Water Wetter

Demineralised Water

Radiator Cooling Panel

Greddy Oil Cooler with Thermostat

1 x Flex-A-Lite 7" Oil Cooler Mounted Thermo

-DRIVETRAIN-

R33 RB25DET 5 Speed Manual Gearbox

OS Giken Twin Plate Clutch STR2CD (215MM Plates Diameter Version)

(Clutch Plates Resurfaced at 7.5mm thickness when time came for a rebuild at 15,000km's)

R33 GTS-T Clutch Master Cylinder

Nismo Oversized Slave Cylinder

Redline Lightweight Shockproof Gearbox Oil

Custom R33 GTS-T One Piece Tailshaft

Complete R32 GTR Rear Cradle Including;

R32 GTR 1.5 Way Rear Differential (Redline Heavy Duty Shockproof Diff Oil)

R32 GTR Rear Driveshafts

-INTERIOR-

HKB Boss Kit

NRG Short Hub Quick Release

Momo Millenium Steering Wheel

Bride Ergo2 Gradiation FA Style Driver Seat on Bride MO49 Rail

Bride Brix 1.5 Gradiation FA Style Passenger Seat on Bride NO50 Rail.

Genuine 180SX Type-X Rear Seat

Bride Genuine RPS13 Floor Mats

Bride Trimmed Gearshift Boot

Bride Trimmed Glovebox

Bride Trimmed Centre Storage Compartment Lid

Bride Trimmed Sunvisors

New Nissan OEM Carpet

180SX Type X Digital climate Control

Greddy Gear Knob

Mekaru Carbon Fiber Door Inserts

Sideway Carbon Fiber Steering Column

Sideway Carbon Fiber Instrument Cluster Surround

Sideway Carbon Fiber Instrument Cluster Bezel

Sideway Carbon Fiber Rear View Mirror

Sideway Carbon Fiber Ash Tray

Sideway Carbon Fiber Air Con Vents

Sideway Carbon Fiber Windscreen Demister Vents

Sideway Carbon Fiber Interior Door Handles

Sideway Carbon Fiber Interior Light Surround

Sideway Carbon Fiber Inner Door Mirror Covers

Sideway Carbon Fiber Centre Console Surround

Sideway Carbon Fiber Cigarette Lighter Surround

Sideway Carbon Fiber Door Card Pockets

Sideway Carbon Fiber Door Sills

Cusco Full Roll Cage - 6 Point Padded - (Front Half Detachable)

Genuine Nismo Key

-AUDIO-

JVC KD-DV5105 DVD MP3 player

Kicker KS60 6" Component Door Speakers

Please contact me (Juzzie) on 0411 437 937 after 6pm weekdays, or between 9am and 11pm during the weekend if you are interested. Located at Brisbane central.

No swaps will be considered sorry.

Cheers.

post-22121-1267688849_thumb.jpg

post-22121-1267688864_thumb.jpg

post-22121-1267688877_thumb.jpg

post-22121-1267688888_thumb.jpg

post-22121-1267688900_thumb.jpg

post-22121-1267688913_thumb.jpg

post-22121-1267689188_thumb.jpg

post-22121-1267689196_thumb.jpg

post-22121-1267689202_thumb.jpg

post-22121-1267689212_thumb.jpg

post-22121-1267689433_thumb.jpg

Edited by silman
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks mate, I am now offering the car without the Work Wheels, rays locknuts and rollcage, for $23,000. The car will come with these 18x8" rims and generic wheel/lock nuts (see attached)

post-22121-1272453874_thumb.jpg

The car is still available as originally listed with work rims, cage and rays locknuts, at $25,000.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So it's a ginormous undertaking that will be a massive headache but will be sorta cool if pulled off right. And also expensive. I'm sure it'll be as expensive as buying the car itself. I don't think you could just do this build without upgrading other things to take the extra power. Probably lots of custom stuff as well. All this assuming the person has mechanical knowledge. I'm stupid enough to try it but smart enough to realize there's gonna be mistakes even with an experienced mechanic. I'm a young bloke on minimum wage that gets dopamine from air being moved around and got his knowledge from a Donut video on how engines work.]   Thanks for the response though super informative!
    • Yes, it is entirely possible to twincharge a Skyline. It is not....without problems though. There was a guy did it to an SOHC RB30 (and I think maybe it became or already was a 25/30) in a VL Commode. It was a monster. The idea is that you can run both compressors at relatively low pressure ratios, yet still end up with a quite large total pressure ratio because they multiply, not add, boost levels. So, if the blower is spun to give a 1.4:1 PR (ie, it would make ~40 kPa of boost on its own) and the turbo is set up to give a 1.4:1 PR also, then you don't get 40+40 = 80 kPa of boost, you get 1.4*1.4, which is pretty close to 100 kPa of boost. It's free real estate! This only gets better as the PRs increase. If both are set up to yield about 1.7 PR, which is only about 70 kPa or 10ish psi of boost each, you actually end up with about 1.9 bar of boost! So, inevitably it was a bit of a monster. The blower is set up as the 2nd compressor, closest to the motor, because it is a positive displacement unit, so to get the benefit of putting it in series with another compressor, it has to go second. If you put it first, it has to be bigger, because it will be breathing air at atmospheric pressure. The turbo's compressor ends up needing to be a lot larger than you'd expect, and optimised to be efficient at large mass flows and low PRs. The turbo's exhaust side needs to be quite relaxed, because it's not trying to provide the power to produce all the boost, and it has to handle ALL the exhaust flow. I think you need a much bigger wastegate than you might expect. Certainly bigger than for an engine just making the same power level turbo only. The blower effectively multiplies the base engine size. So if you put a 1.7 PR blower on a 2.5L Skyline, it's like turboing a 4.2L engine. Easy to make massive power. Plus, because the engine is blown, the blower makes boost before the turbo can even think about making boost, so it's like having that 4.2L engine all the way from idle. Fattens the torque delivery up massively. But, there are downsides. The first is trying to work out how to size the turbo according to the above. The second is that you pretty much have to give up on aircon. There's not enough space to mount everything you need. You might be able to go elec power steering pump, hidden away somewhere. but it would still be a struggle to get both the AC and the blower on the same side of the engine. Then, you have to ponder whether you want to truly intercool the thing. Ideally you would put a cooler between the turbo and the blower, so as to drop the heat out of it and gain even more benefit from the blower's positive displacement nature. But that would really need to be a water to air core, because you're never going to find enough room to run 2 sets of boost pipes out to air to air cores in the front of the car. But you still need to aftercool after the blower, because both these compressors will add a lot of heat, and you wil have the same temperature (more or less) as if you produced all that boost with a single stage, and no one in their right mind would try to run a petrol engine on high boost without a cooler (unless not using petrol, which we shall ignore for the moment). I'm of the opinnion that 2x water to air cores in the bay and 2x HXs out the front is probably the only sensible way to avoid wasting a lot of room trying to fit in long runs of boost pipe. But the struggle to locate everything in the limited space available would still be a pretty bad optimisation problem. If it was an OEM, they'd throw 20 engineers at it for a year and let them test out 30 ideas before deciding on the best layout. And they'd have the freedom to develop bespoke castings and the like, for manifolds, housings, connecting pipes to/from compressors and cores. A single person in a garage can either have one shot at it and live with the result, or spend 5 years trying to get it right.
    • Good to know, thank you!
    • It's a place for non car talk. There's whoretown which is general shit talking. But also other threads coving all sorts of stuff(a lot still semi car related)
    • Looked it up. It sounds so expensive lmao I'd rather not. Awwwww but I just love that sound
×
×
  • Create New...