Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

do you have a gtr for sale? im in the market for one, i want a stock one with no mods, but i will consider anything not too modified, it needs to be streetable. do you know somebody honest that can import one for me? there are plenty out there with the dealers, but i dont trust dealers. from what i heard most of the wind back the clock, so how do you know if its been wound back or not? do you ask for the japanese auction papers?

who is trustworthy out there?

what would your shopping procedure be for one of the beasts?

do you have a gtr for sale? im in the market for one, i want a stock one with no mods, but i will consider anything not too modified, it needs to be streetable. do you know somebody honest that can import one for me? there are plenty out there with the dealers, but i dont trust dealers. from what i heard most of the wind back the clock, so how do you know if its been wound back or not? do you ask for the japanese auction papers?

who is trustworthy out there?

what would your shopping procedure be for one of the beasts?

You'll probably get more help by asking this in the Importing forum section. I've read plenty on these questions over there.

There is also another section for Wanted to Buy. Good luck.

many many people can easily and happily import you an R33 GTR.

however I would STRONGLY advise that you buy such a car locally.

6 years ago, a good R33 GTR would fetch $45K, and a Series 2 or 3 V-Spec would fetch upwards of $55K. At that point in time, it was clearly worth importing one.

Now, with a rash of these cars having been imported 2 years ago when the AUD/Yen rate was sitting between 100-105, there are plenty of good, cheap R33 GTR for sale locally by people who just need to sell up to get the money (clearly, as witnessed by the for sale threads).

I think it is fair to say that you can get an extremely neat late model R32 GTR in stock trim for around the $14-15K mark now, late (S2 or 3) R33 GTR for around the $22-23K, and even R34 GTR V-Specs are getting to the $40K mark. (For those who wish to dispute, I am not talking about ASKING prices, I am talking about SELLING prices, for which there is a massive difference).

I can't see an importer getting a truly mint R33 GTR S2 or 3 for below 1M Yen FOB, which means you'd be scraping to get one in below $20K ready to register. This may constitute a saving of $1-2K, when for the delay and risk, I think you are much better off shopping around locally, and waving cash in a few people's faces. Don't just offer lowball prices over the net, but if you turn up, check the car, and make an aggressive offer, you may be surprised at how well you can do.

many many people can easily and happily import you an R33 GTR.

however I would STRONGLY advise that you buy such a car locally.

6 years ago, a good R33 GTR would fetch $45K, and a Series 2 or 3 V-Spec would fetch upwards of $55K. At that point in time, it was clearly worth importing one.

Now, with a rash of these cars having been imported 2 years ago when the AUD/Yen rate was sitting between 100-105, there are plenty of good, cheap R33 GTR for sale locally by people who just need to sell up to get the money (clearly, as witnessed by the for sale threads).

I think it is fair to say that you can get an extremely neat late model R32 GTR in stock trim for around the $14-15K mark now, late (S2 or 3) R33 GTR for around the $22-23K, and even R34 GTR V-Specs are getting to the $40K mark. (For those who wish to dispute, I am not talking about ASKING prices, I am talking about SELLING prices, for which there is a massive difference).

I can't see an importer getting a truly mint R33 GTR S2 or 3 for below 1M Yen FOB, which means you'd be scraping to get one in below $20K ready to register. This may constitute a saving of $1-2K, when for the delay and risk, I think you are much better off shopping around locally, and waving cash in a few people's faces. Don't just offer lowball prices over the net, but if you turn up, check the car, and make an aggressive offer, you may be surprised at how well you can do.

I agree to certain extend, go up to the seller and offer what you think is reasonable and most time you'll be surprised. But having said that, 1 year ago when I was looking at buying my car, any 33GTR below 25k are just not worth looking at. I mean you can look at them but chance of you scoring a good mint condition one is much lower comparing to anything above the 26k or even 28k mark. I ended up paying something more for the N1 which I have absolutely no problem with at all.

That sounds pretty reasonable.

i would rather buy one locally anyway, at least i can see the car for myself

thanks..

Unless you're after something unique and special (N1, 400R or maybe colour etc), I wouldnt recommend importing. There sooooo many in the market now and prices arent that exp at all.

If you're concern with mileage, I wouldnt recommend you to even buy an import (maybe get a new car). I wouldnt even trust a logbook 100% (but they do provide some sort of evident). So long as everything is running fine and you like it, I dont see any problem with it. And seriously, how many Ks do you suppose they would have wind it back? Being more realistic, I'd say anywhere from 10000k to 50000k easily and dont tell me a good engine will blow up with more than 100000km on it. Having a logbook for a standard car (unless its a limited edition car) will mean nothing and to me, its not worth the premium you're paying (it doesnt help much with resale). Think about it, would you choose to buy a mint gtr without log for 25k or pay 35k for one that's got log?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As you're looking at using a Link ECU, then large injectors are not a problem. But there's not really any need to go 1000s on an RB20 unless you're planning >>600HP on E85, which would seem unlikely. There are other options for injectors. The Xspurt ones are available from a number of places and you can get them in the mid 600s and 725cc, which is probably a sensible place to be. These are all EV14 based. If you are not using the stock AFM (at all, which would be the case with a Link) then a large turbo intake pipe to suit the ATR turbos is not an obstacle, so you should use one instead of a highflow. Results will be better.
    • Hey guys,  I'm after some advice and this here is the best place to get it imo. I was a member a looong time ago under another account, with a lost email address. Its nice to jump back on and see some of the same names still giving good advice.  I mothballed my car when i moved to perth in 2013, and after getting towed across the nullabor a few times it has officially done more km's on a trailer than under its own power. Now that i have started the process of tidying up and modifying it, i see the fruit available (and the fruiterers selling the produce) is different than back in the day. hence my questions, as i used to 'know' what to get and now, i'm not so sure. Engine wise the car (92 gtst) has a walbro 255, k+n, fmic, cam gears and and turbo back 3"exhaust. Wish list is a Hypergear high flow or ATR43G1, Link G4x and some newer injectors before a tune up. My goals are modest, only low 200's power wise. i know i could achieve this with less, but i've been swapping out old for new where i can. Every cooling hose has been replaced, along with mani gaskets, WP, thermostat and radiator, fuel pump and timing belt, tensioner and idler, and i rebuilt the steering rack. Regarding the injectors, the fruiterers all seem to sell what used to be considered quite large injectors. There are a lot of options for bosch 1000cc EV14's, and i would like to know if that is a suitable choice for my build. Is modern injector design good enough to run these at the low duty cycles that i likely would be? is there a downside to running a too large injector these days? or, would there be an upside to running a smaller injector at higher duty cycle? I can see that there are smaller injectors still available, but the ones i have seen specifically marketed for RB's are pretty large (see: https://golebysparts.au/collections/fuel-rail-injector-kits/products/nissan-rb20-fuel-rail-bosch-980cc-1150cc-injectors-turbosmart-fpr800-regulator-kit), and i dont know enough about them to say one not marketed for RB's would fit or not. I have searched the forums, and amongst all the posts on older tech, I did see gtsboy recommend EV14's, but no size was mentioned... again, i'm not clear on if the smaller size bosch injectors are also EV14's as they do look similar.  also, if someone can recommend a tuner familiar with RB's in the Geelong or West Melbourne area i'd appreciate it. Thanks in advance guys. Cheers, Rowdy  
    • FWIW the depth of the groove in the rubber pad is not super essential, the blocks are rubber and squish a bit. If you are worried an angle grinder will make a deeper groove quick smart
    • I mean, if you were to move the jacking points away from the original location, that is, away from the wheels and closer to the centreline of the car, then it will be more likely to overbalance and tip off the supports. Same as we talked about before. I was talking about moving for-aft. If the sill is bent outward or inward, then the car would obviously look unstraight from the outside. Hopefully that hasn't happened either. Again, you can do comparative measurements from the chassis rails to see if there is much deflection.
    • Can you elaborate what you mean with your first sentence? I meant move as in the bulge kinda seemed like it got pulled "outward" meaning it got pulled down and to the side with the jacking rail itself, so the load bearing bulge now sits lower than usual and is not level with the sill on the other side of the jack point. Either that or the jacking rail just got pushed in a good bit.
×
×
  • Create New...