Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

as above to get into diagnosis mode turn ignition to on (i.e power on the dash but car doesn't have to be on) and press the driver side door switch 5 times within 7 seconds. If you have done this right you will see the airbag light blink slow and fast the way it's blinking is actually telling you what is wrong but as there likely isn't anything since you plugged everything up just turn the ignition off and back on again shouldn't blink anymore.

If it's still blinking try again and if still no luck tell me and i'll send you something that tells you what needs to be sorted

Hi ,

I am encountering the same problem when I disconnected the steering wheel airbag to realign steering wheel and forgot to plug connector back into place before turning ignition on. Once the airbag light starts flashing,it would not stop even after reconnecting the air bag.

Its driving me insane!!!!! Please help, I have tried turning the ignition on and pressing the drivers door light, but the light is still FLASHING!!!!

Please help

Matt

I tried the Door switch trick and did NOT work for me. The driver door switch is the one on the B pillar, close to where the door latch is located??

It's the little light switch that turns the interior light off when the door closes

try doing it but try having it pressed in before you start or some other method. I had to change my sequence a bit because it didn't work for me either, but by changing it to suit my var it worked fine

  • 4 months later...

Can someone post the codes for what the blinking stuff means?

After entering diagnostic mode (pressing 5 times (hold the button down for a while don't just press it madly) within the first 7 seconds.

... its off long on long, on short off short. repeat.

f**king computers...

As someone who designs systems for a living i'm more than qualified to say.... f**king computers...

Not to be outdone... I went back and repeated the whole process... (got in car... ignition to ON 5 firm presses)... no light. Turned ignition OFF. Started car. Light stayed OFF.

Win.

I didn't know bill gates was Japanese and worked for Nissan??!? ... f**king stupid computers... lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You shouldn't need to massively fatten up the mixtures for cold conditions. For one thing - 0°C is not that cold. For another, the Haltech will be using the IAT sensor to tell it how dense the air air, and calculate the correct amount of fuelling. Then the cold start enrichment is added as a % on top of that, so it should scale with the main fuelling. You might also doubt the IAT sensor at this time. You're not using one from an RB26 are you? Using a nice Bosch sensor or similar? Happens. Some wideband units take great pleasure in killing their sensors. Put another wideband in the tailpipe and compare. Or just swap the sensor to a brand new one and see.
    • Oh, my misunderstand. When the car was running, it sounded ok, but if I gave it any gas it wanted to die but caught itself afterwards. It's very different from how it was a couple months ago when it was warmer outside. The logs show that the AFRs are better during, what I assume, is warmup enrichment. Because it's cold, and air is more dense, should I work on the enrichment bit?
    • yess of course im not using 2nd hand parts from my spare engine, but the place where i live is hard to find parts for the RB20DET ,but for the RB20E is everywhere including new ones and a lot cheaper ,because for the RB20DET you have to order it overseas to get one and it cost a lot of money 3x the price to be exact. so i ask this topic because if i can use the new ones but for RB20E is it compatible or not. if not im screwed haha, not totally screwed but i have to save a lot of money first before i can begin repairing my engine, thanks for the information before.
    • Unless my sensor just died, was only a couple months old, I strongly believe it didn't. How can I test it? I never mentioned it being 20:1+?
    • Well, you wouldn't use 2nd hand bearings out of another engine anyway....so just buying the proper bearings is obviously what you're going to do. The crankshaft would be common. The conrods might be common. There is essentially nothing else you would be able to use.
×
×
  • Create New...