Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On a unrelated noob topic:

Why is it that my car boosts to 12-13 PSI sometimes and 9-10 at other times? I assume its something related to heat? anyone got a brief description as to what causes this? and when boost sits at like -12 on idle what exactly does that mean and how come that varies sometimes? also heat related? or would it have changed since I put new air filters on?

$1500 a month in rent? you nga's need to buy a house and stop wasting money.

so our parents keep telling us. We didn't have a deposit at the time though.

agree $1500 rent is a fair bit

for a bit more you can get a house

with two incomes it should be a piece of piss

one for now... Currently out of work and I was primary income so...umm... Oops! Hence the comments...

thought you guys had an apartment in suburbia? how on earth does that cost $1500 a month, or is that the goin rate these days?

were 5 mins or less from the beach and the apartment is only 6 months old.

Sif, I've driven my brothers GTST and mine I know which feels better in the corners

my dick feels better in a nice warm vagina. it doesn't mean I walk around all day with a woman hanging off my hips.

yeah sorry wasnt having a go, but a simplistic view that was of two incomes is all you need

just keep savin where you can and work towards it

the accountant at my old place said i was stupid for buying a house

he said rent where you want to live, and buy as many investment properties as you can afford on interest only loans

he said that renting wherever you want is cheaper than buying in the same place and put your $ towards investment houses instead and rent them out

Bought a type x on the weekend. Pick it up this week hopefully :D
pretty stock at the moment, just got a cat back and front mount.

All im gonna do is straight pipe it and get some baller fittment happening

bought it private, pretty decent price with rwc

Fuck yeah Chad!

Get some bas ass stance and fitment going.

What body kit is that?

BN Sports / Origin / Vertex?

I took a few pics of this 180SX Type X.

82047639.jpg

33921668.jpg

51043927.jpg

Here's a starting point for your fitment.

From memory they are 17" x 9" +0.

Got some decent poke going.

jizzy clearly sells pics of himself to old kents on the internet pretending to be an underage girl.

Hah!

cut. back. on. kfc.

:blink:

had kfc hot n spicy 3 piece on sunday night. got the runs all day monday.

body's not used to that shit anymore.

Yeah I had that 2 weeks ago, fucking hot, original FTW!

Looks sic!

I got my MA61's on, just needs more low on the rears of about 20mm and the front about 50mm.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
    • Hi guys, has anyone either purchased or built themselves a rotisserie for their car before? I can only just justify the need for one hence why I should just make one but at the same time, if I make one I can kiss another 4 weeks of potentially productive car working time goodbye because I'm building a bloody rotisserie....  I mainly want it for the application of the body deadener.  Cleaning the old stuff off, priming and then colour over the deadener doesn't worry me, it's just the application using the Schutz Gun that I feel would achieve a significantly better finish painting it side on and keeping the Schutz Gun upright.  I don't think they would work well on the side let alone almost upside down for some areas.  If the product I use (Terosun, etc) could work through a HVLP ok then it might be ok to apply without the rotisserie.   I can get one of these style ones for about $1200 which is pretty good value-     I reckon if I made one it would cost around $500 but it's more the time that it would take is more of a killer than the cost.  They look to hold their value pretty well second hand so I could always sell it after using it and realistically only lose $200-$300 at worst.  Or keep it and buy another project when this one finally sees the light of day... Anyone selling one...? Cheers!  
    • While it is a very nice idea to put card style AFMs into the charge pipe (post intercooler, obviously), the position of the AFM and the recirc valve relative to each other starts to become something that you really have to consider. The situation: The stock AFM is located upstream the turbo, and the recirc valve return is located between the AFM and the turbo inlet, aimed at the turbo inlet, so that it flows away from and not through the AFM. Thus, once metered air is not metered again, neither flowing forwards, or backwards, when vented out of the charge pipe. When you put the AFM between the turbo outlet and the TB, there is a volume of pressurised charge pipe upstream of the AFM and there is a volume of pressurised pipe downstream of the AFM. When the recirc valve opens and vents the charge pipe, air is going to flow from both ends of the charge pipe towards the recirc valve. If the recirc valve is in the stock location, then the section between it and the TB doesn't really matter here - you're not going to try to put the AFM in that piece of pipe. But the AFM will likely be somewhere between the intercooler and the recirc valve, So the entire charge pipe volume from that position (upstream of the AFM, back through the intercooler, to the turbo outlet) is going to flow through the AFM, get registered as combustion air, cause the ECU to fuel for it, but get dumped out of the recirc valve and you will end up with a typical BOV related rich spike. So ideally you want to put the AFM as close to the TB as possible (so, just upstream of the crossover pipe, assuming that the stock crossover is still in use, or, just before the TB if an FFP is being used) and locate the recirc valve at the turbo outlet. Recirc valve at the turbo outlet is the new normal for things like EFRs anyway. In the even of a recirc valve opening dumping all the air in the charge pipe, pretty much all of it is going to go backwards, from the TB to the recirc valve near the turbo outlet. But only a small portion of it (that between the TB and the AFM) will pass through the AFM, and it will pass through going backwards. The card style AFMs are somewhat more immune to reading flow that passes through them in reverse than older AFMs are, so you should absolutely minimise the rich pulse behaviour associated with the unavoidable outcome of having both a recirc valve and an AFM in the charge pipe.
    • Yep, in my case as soon as I started hearing weird noises I backed off the tension until it sounded normal again. Delicate balance between enough tension to avoid that cold start slip and too much damaging things.
×
×
  • Create New...