Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

anyone here knows how to ake the back seats off...i know after the two nuts at the front you have to somehow take the seats off the hooks underneath on each side...cant do that...any special trick that can help me take it out easily?

anyone here knows how to ake the back seats off...i know after the two nuts at the front you have to somehow take the seats off the hooks underneath on each side...cant do that...any special trick that can help me take it out easily?

there will be tension on the seats.. they are 'stretched' over the hooks if that makes sense

my best advice is to bash the shit out of the bottom of the backrest part with your palm and yank upwards... don't be shy or they won't come off!

anyone here knows how to ake the back seats off...i know after the two nuts at the front you have to somehow take the seats off the hooks underneath on each side...cant do that...any special trick that can help me take it out easily?

Haha I remember the first time I tried removing back seat. Took me forever, it was the opposite of what I was trying, I think you had to slide back or something.

i pulled the seats out from the back....kinda....then tried to push it towards the back and yanking it up...still didnt work...did the other way....pulling it while yanking it up....still didnt move at all... :blink:

dont forget the extra 'engine out' import costs to get it over here :(

party pooper :blink:

anyone here knows how to ake the back seats off...i know after the two nuts at the front you have to somehow take the seats off the hooks underneath on each side...cant do that...any special trick that can help me take it out easily?

bottom part has 2 bolts 1 on each side. undo em and slide/pull it out.

back part also has 2 smaller bolts 1 on each side. undo em then lift it all up and pull it out. its hooked in

ahh memories. kinda miss my old POS r33

Edited by R-SPEC

two screws down the bottom, then slip a large screwdriver next to the tabs and LIFT. it should pop out. then pull the bottom part of the seat out of the car. the backrest is two screws agin in the bottom two corners (near the bottom of the seatbelt). undo then push seat UP and pull towards you. up, then pull. it should get easier with time. i can get my seats out of the car in under 5 min now. took me forever when i first tried it too

funny thing is its not really my first time...when i did it first in y gtst 4 yrs back...it seemed to be alot easier than this...for some reason...anyhow i am off to give it another shot...:blink:...hope for the best...thanks for all your help guys..

OMFG!!!!!!!!!! done with ease....used basti's idea of using a screw driver for lever...done in less than 30 sec....GEEZZ!!!! but for one of the hooks, the white bracket came off too....is that of a concern?

8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 17mm, 19mm spanners and i could have the entire car in bits

and that too

OMFG!!!!!!!!!! done with ease....used basti's idea of using a screw driver for lever...done in less than 30 sec....GEEZZ!!!! but for one of the hooks, the white bracket came off too....is that of a concern?

haha sweet, im not sure about the white thing. just push it back in i guess, if u can.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Because that’s not what any of them are building these heads or blocks for. It’s to hold over over 1000hp at the wheels without breaking and none of that stuff is required to make power 
    • Dort sounds above 3k rpm are dorty 🤣 I might krinkle black the alloy 🤔
    • It makes you wonder, all these people starting to make a billet replacement head, I wonder if any have thought about trying to adapt tech from newer engines into them. You're already at the full design stage to make a billet head... Why not really spice it up and had some more modern tech into the mix too...
    • Connect all the plumbing up properly. The actual worst part about having the turbo unable to actually build boost, is you can and likely would over soon the turbo if you drove the car (free rev while stationary isnt likely to manage it).   If you do have an air leak as Duncan suggested, you'll have a bad time as the AFM will be saying different to reality.   As you have had the engine out, I'd go over all electrical connections again. If you have a consult cable, plug it in, and see what the ECU thinks is going on. Did you touch the timing belt? If so, double check your timing on the gears is correct AND put a timing light on it while it's idling and see what ignition setting you have. Is the AFM you've installed the one that was in the car previously? You said you replaced seals, what seals exactly? What have you had apart?   From memory when I had my RB25DET with factory throttle, there was two plugs the TPS plug on the loom could go to. One would leave the car running like shit, the other made it work, I think one plug on the TPS area was for something else (an option). It's too many years since I saw that part of the loom to remember properly though.   Is the car idling smooth (as smooth as an RB can)? Does it smell fuelled up?   I have a feeling either timing in timing belt is off, or a sensor isn't right.
    • Theres still skid pan and motokhana days up in QLD at least that are $100 or less. The ones that are ran as "driver training" less so, they're expensive, but just normal skid pan days like SAU ran are still low cost. And thats one of the places I learned to be a lariken, purely by asking for passenger rides, and how people were doing crazy things. Reese gave me plenty of pointers back in the day for skid pan! And yes Duncan, I will never forget your pointers for track work. Especially after Neil got out saying "I am NEVER getting in the car with him again!" 😛
×
×
  • Create New...