Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

my honest advice?

buy a NORMAL NON TURBO AUTO bucket of bozz first car

drive it till the doors fall off and you get off your p's

then you can drive, are allowed to drive normal cars and a bit smarter with looking after cars (i didnt look after my first car)

then you could probably go staright to a GTR 33 by that time and youll have a real car first off

imho dont bother with a nice turbo or engine swapping etc - takes time, $$$ and effort etc

doesnt have to be a bucket of bozz

but forget about all this engine swaps etc

my first car was an auto vl n/a bozz

it was in ok condition ,everything worked, and it drove fine

i never looked after it, never serviced, never did anything

very reliable otherwise, it had more oil in the engine bay when i sold it, then it did in the engine

then i sold it for 2k and got my r33 gtst

kids these days want the best, latest, fastest, bestest car EVER on their P's

and it has to turbocharged, it has to be blah blah

just buy a normal car

you dont have to keep up with the other knobs "cos they do"

Do what I did, drive a N/A 33 manual coupe for 3 years, get off Ps sell it and buy a GTR (couldn't get a 34GTR though still 40-50k for the base ones -_-) so got the next best thing a 98 33 R!

I was also SO close to buying a Evo 7, man I love those things but I wanted to own a turbo skyline before I got over them.

But CA's aren't the world's most reliable engine. N/A SR20 is a much better choice.

wut? SR20 engines come with factory busted lifters. CA's are bulletproof in the hands of a tool, esp with no forced induction.

Do it, CA18DE then weight loss the crap out of the car and give it good suspension. Look into changing the cams out of a CA20, $20 mod, makes it rev better. It'll be a great car to learn in.

umad.jpg

Seems like the meme to me. Umad vicpol?

makes me wanna go out and get UJELLY for the 240z and UMIRIN for the golf.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'd need to check my notes at work Duncan, but I'm pretty sure most of that is purely OBD2 on the display. How quickly is it all able to update? Do you have any internet capability in your workshop with a laptop?
    • Yeah just gonna be near stock runner only want 180kw to 210kw can’t find anything been looking ages looked in to rb25 but money is tight as the moment need the car back on the road 
    • From there it is trickier. Ecutek seems to be one of those closed ecosystems where everyone password protects their tunes which means I either choose a tuner and can't change from them and can't make any changes myself for any reason, or I have to buy the tuning software (about $4k) and then get someone to tune from scratch (which is not simple with all the multi dimensional tables these days). Once you buy about 300 "flash points" per ECU you can get it tuned and add their "RaceROM" function which hacks extra functionality like launch control onto the ECU, and also makes extra data available for logging over CAN Not sure what I'll do there yet; I'm tempted to use one of the overseas shops that does billions of remote tunes of the platform instead of starting from scratch locally, a lot can be done online these days.
    • Can I log IAT eh? Well, can now So next thing was looking at data logging. Not straight forward because none of the motorsport displays have cracked the nissan/inifinti CAN and ECU based displays don't do g logging, lap timing, predictive laps etc.  So, I bought an Ecutek dongle from Tunehouse (Oz distributor). Even without a tune onboard that allows display and logging of about 50 parameters via Android (and presumably iOS) app. Approx 600 for the bluetooth + Usb version That gives me (pretty ugly but) functional dash display on Android And logging of these parameters I'll play around a bit over the break, but at least now I can make sure I have oil pressure when I get to some track testing.  
×
×
  • Create New...