Jump to content
SAU Community

Vic Wasteland Thread


paulr33

Recommended Posts

they are nice. remember your GTR would of had better potential for speed but for everything else they are mint

edit: my mistake they still are quicker than i thought just wikied them

8:22 nurburgring time :thumbsup:

yeah they are quick for what they are but of course it wouldnt take much to make a gtr faster. maybe ill get the one on carsales up in queensland thats been supercharged and making over 400hp atw.:D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

R33 GTR seats - Worth buying? Dont see anything wrong with my stock seats, but i might not know what im missing out on?

r33 GTR seats or r32 GTR rims w/ semi's

hmmmmmmmmmmmmm

33 GTR seats are ok for light track work, they don't really have great side bolstering or shoulders. Don't worry about semi's, just get a set of soft road tyres (RSR, AD08, R1R)

R34 GTR / Eastbear, Recaro or Gais style are probably better suited to a harness though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

32/33 GTR seats are not that great for harness as it has to go through the hole in the middle and will cut into your neck annoyingly.

for a lil tacker like you leigh there are HEAPS of reclinable options from bride that are much better than a GTR seat for track/street usage :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Haha true that Hamish for now they are good enough I feel. Turbos and supportive mods first :D

Also how much for a base tune with a power fc? Picking one up tonight and wondering if it's worth throwing in while I save for the turbos and other parts for a bit of fun in the mean time. Even if its a bit rough I'm sure it'll use less fuel then I am now stock ecu must pump so much in after you boost it up a bit.

Wow that was annoying to type on iPhone.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hamish: coils going in next Thursday along with whiteline front/rear adjustable sways and a hicas lock. Then you can drive my car again and it won't feel like it wants to kill you haha

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Haha true that Hamish for now they are good enough I feel. Turbos and supportive mods first :D

Also how much for a base tune with a power fc? Picking one up tonight and wondering if it's worth throwing in while I save for the turbos and other parts for a bit of fun in the mean time. Even if its a bit rough I'm sure it'll use less fuel then I am now stock ecu must pump so much in after you boost it up a bit.

Wow that was annoying to type on iPhone.

Standard price is about $500

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just accidentally clicked the spotted thread.

'saw a skyline, I waved but u didn't wave back'

Cant remember when I stopped reading it but so glad I did

This is the only thread I bother with now

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I read some threads in the Vic section, but only if they're relevant to me/interest me

F1 thread, and sometimes browse the general wasteland, but most of it is internet nerds posting pictures with word art on them which they think is hilarious.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Lol kris pretty sure since I sold the na still havnt been there :D

Ur car will handle great once it's all done.

Anyway to see pms on iPhone ?

Never mind found it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh, yeah, no arguing that the duty cycle is different. And a circuit car will go to those speeds for more distance and longer times. But, I suspect that if a tailshaft has a harmonic problem, that it would cause damage and shit itself maybe even on the first pass. A second or two of running at the resonant/harmonic problem speed is already a couple hundred revolutions.
    • Shaft speed would be the same, however it's how long they hold it there for and repeated conditions. FWIW half way down the main straight at SMSP I'm bouncing off 4th with a 8600RPM limiter. That shaft would be spinning at 8600RPM for a few seconds before I need to smash the brakes, by T2 it's getting close to that speed again. Now a drag car/roll race car would see that shaft speed for a 1 to 2 secs then they would coast, hit the brakes and that's it.
    • With same diff ratio, tyre diameter and road speed, the tailshaft rpm is the same regardless of the gearbag's ratio. Given that very quick drag cars are probably doing similar road speeds to the fastest circuit cars (circa 300 km/h), and there will be many of either category that can't go that fast and so you'd have inummerable matchups between drag and circuit car speeds at smaller numbers, and given that they are probably using rather similar tyre diameters and probably using similar diff ratios, and...where any of those numbers were different they could quite easily be in opposite directions thus cancelling out.... I think you'd find that there'd be more similarity than difference in tailshaft speed between these two use cases, no?
    • they might see those prop shaft speeds for 1 to 2 secs only 
    • A year of slogging through this bearing issue and finally fixed. What a nightmare. The oil pressure increase did not fix the problem. If you would like to read all the details in case you ever run into a similar issue visit my thread on Yellow Bullet. https://www.yellowbullet.com/threads/continuous-rod-bearing-issues.2689569/?post_id=74193031&nested_view=1&sortby=oldest#post-74193031 In the end the rod bearings themselves were the issue. I had switched from ACL (first engine) to King because that was all we could get at the time and I thought nothing of it. Put the ACL's back in after a year of taking the pan off multiple times to change many things. Issue resolved. Can't believe it was just the bearings themselves all along. It has now been about two years since I drove the car on the street or had it at the track. At some point I had installed all solid and spherical bushings in the rear but had never aligned it since it just went on and off the dyno. Alignment was the first thing to do. (Old photo but same concept) Then I took the transmission out and went through it. This was my first gearset install and I've done about 15 since this one and learned a lot and wanted to apply some of these tweaks to mine. The aftermarket shift forks take very well to some modification and I wanted to make that change. Shifts are now super smooth and no having to find the gear. I also recut the 5th and reverse shift sleeves - always wanted to try this and see how well it works. It works very well! No grinds or having to do a second attempt going into reverse and 5th is perfect. Before During After Going back in In rummaging through my spare trans parts box I found the only parts I've ever broke on a stock trans; the 3-4 shift fork - twice!  
×
×
  • Create New...