Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Love the look of the 33 Billy. Something all whale owners should aspire to. I'm in Sorrento ATM, weather is still jive hut you can feel it's gonna turn any second. Anyone know a good weather app for iPhone?

Love the look of the 33 Billy. Something all whale owners should aspire to. I'm in Sorrento ATM, weather is still jive hut you can feel it's gonna turn any second. Anyone know a good weather app for iPhone?

not sure if you can get it on the iphone but i use "Daily Briefing" on my samsung. does its job

Love the look of the 33 Billy. Something all whale owners should aspire to. I'm in Sorrento ATM, weather is still jive hut you can feel it's gonna turn any second. Anyone know a good weather app for iPhone?

I use ozweather, does the job, has rain radar and 7 day forecast etc

you going out in Sorrento tonight? my mate is playing at the Conti again

nice rear parcel shelf 6x9's billy :(

Love the look of the 33 Billy. Something all whale owners should aspire to. I'm in Sorrento ATM, weather is still jive hut you can feel it's gonna turn any second. Anyone know a good weather app for iPhone?

oz weather, takes the feed from the BOM, and shows BOM maps without having to navigate through BOM's archaic website.

What kind of camber settings would be best for a street car that enjoys a few twisties every now and again?

-1.5 degrees all around?

I don't know much about that kinda stuff so i'm off to do some more research.

you're better off running camber setting which will improve lifespan of tyres. In this case, you should aim for about -1.5deg on front and about -0.5 on rear. The rear you will want as neutral as possible. This will depend on height of car and the range of your camber setup.

Ive got two rear camber bush kits on the rear, best could get with my height was -1 degree

Talk to your suspension workshop regarding best setup. I recommend Traction Tyres in Rowville. They will point you in the right direction based on what you plan to use your car for.

More tyre on the road the better. Eg billys 4.5 deg camber on front would make te car understeer like a bitch when pushed on corners

The more front negative camber the better. As you turn through corners, car leans onto the outside wheel, enforcing positive camber. By dialing in negative camber, the positive camber occuring through the turn balances this out and applies more tyre to the road. Hence better grip/traction through the turn. So, if anything, less understeering.

The rear you would like minimum camber, as to provide maximum grip during acceleration (more grip to the road). However, having too little negative camber and going through a corner will create positive camber and may cause you to spin out if accelerating due to the smaller tyre footprint.

Basic explanation, so dont shoot me down with specifics

Camber = serious business

that explanation only works for RWD as well, cos AWD geometry is completely different.

Not that Kris is ever gonna get anything about camber, cos all he's interested in is going in a straight line from a traffic light :(

Thanks for all the comments ppl :(

Nankangs..?

Any good, I thought they were some pov pack tyres like NEXEN's, which I have used before...

They are alright for now, pretty grippy. Not that I care, they are rears and dont last long anyway :/

that explanation only works for RWD as well, cos AWD geometry is completely different.

Not that Kris is ever gonna get anything about camber, cos all he's interested in is going in a straight line from a traffic light :/

haha true that. Basing my jibbajabba off my car, awd cars go speak to your suspension workshop.

hmmm If i get GTR brembo's on the front, then I wont be able to run r32 stockies on the front anymore :(

Might have to settle for some R33 GTST calipers

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Very decent bit of kit. Definitely black it out I reckon.  
    • Because people who want that are buying euros. The people with the money to buy the aftermarket heads and blocks aren’t interested in efficiency or making -7 power, they’re making well over 1,000hp and pretty much only drive them at full throttle  best way to way make money is know your customer base and what they want and don’t spend money making things they don’t want. 
    • It's not, but it does feel like a bit of a missed opportunity regardless. For example, what if the cylinder head was redesigned to fit a GDI fuel system? It's worth like two full points of compression ratio when looking at modern GDI turbo vs PFI turbo. I'm pretty reliably surprised at how much less turbo it takes to make similar power out of a modern engine vs something like an RB26. Something with roughly the same dimensions as a -7 on an S55 is making absolutely silly power numbers compared to an RB26. I know there's a ton of power loss from things like high tension rings, high viscosity oil, clutch fan, AWD standby loss, etc but it's something like 700 whp in an F80 M3 vs 400 whp in an R33 GTR. The stock TF035HL4W turbos in an F80 M3 are really rather dinky little things and that's enough to get 400 whp at 18 psi. This just seems unwise no? I thought the general approach is if you aren't knock limited the MFB50 should be held constant through the RPM range. So more timing with RPM, but less timing with more cylinder filling. A VE-based table should accordingly inverse the VE curve of the engine.
    • I've seen tunes from big name workshops with cars making in excess of 700kW and one thing that stood out to me, is that noone is bothering with torque management. Everyone is throwing in as much timing as the motor can take for a pull. Sure that yields pretty numbers on a dyno, but it's not keeping these motors together for more than a few squirts down the straight without blowing coolant or head gaskets. If tuners, paid a bit more attention and took timing out in the mid range, managed boost a bit better, you'll probably see less motors grenading. Not to name names, or anything like that, but I've seen a tune, from a pretty wild GT-R from a big name tuner and I was but perplexed on the amount of timing jammed into it. You would have expected a quite a bit less timing at peak torque versus near the limiter, but there was literally 3 degrees of difference. Sure you want to make as much as possible throughout the RPM range, but why? At the expense of blowing motors? Anyhow I think we've gone off topic enough once again lol.
    • Because that’s not what any of them are building these heads or blocks for. It’s to hold over over 1000hp at the wheels without breaking and none of that stuff is required to make power 
×
×
  • Create New...