Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My mechanic was insistent that it would work better with the clutch I'm getting. So I just told him to go for it.

I was going to get one anyway. Less drivetrain loss :)

Car is predominantly a daily, but used for hill climbs and track days too.

Trying to get a good balance between looks, performance and practicality/reliability.

flywheel is a waste of money

I dunno, didn't really like the feel of my Exedy HD, so thought the cushion might be a good change. Spur of the moment thing :P

haha the cushion button isnt all that good for daily driving :P

takes a bit of getting used to, Kris drove my old 32 with the cushion button and even he said was hard

took alot of abuse though, and only died when one of the springs popped out of the centre part, apparently its a common issue on them

Haha good call. He's actually not making money off the clutch. That's the price that his wholesaler gave him. It's a bloody good clutch though. Definitely overkill for what I need but meh :P

HDCB's are terrible for taking constant abuse (like a full track day). The centre and the ceramic are attached so you can't rebuild them modularly when they wear out, they suck for daily driving and are no more durable than a regular HD.

basically HDCB's are for people who want to feel like they're using a brass button without any of the durability or benefits.

You either buy an HD which is cheap to maintain, gives good grip and slips enough to daily drive, or you get your balls in a bunch and buy a brass button. HDCB is for fags.

Heavy flywheel + snappy clutch = good

Light flywheel + snappy clutch = shockloaded drivetrain

I run an exedy lightened wheel in mine, with a 5 puk. Love it.

Fantastic for track work. Doesn't get driven on the street a whole lot, but when it does its a ball.

To be honest I didn't notice the difference between gears, there is a definite pickup in revs while while under load though.

leigh fix coilpacks and then check it, if the coilpacks misfire i wouldnt bother trying anything else. Where do u live? Do u want me to check it

yeah i'll wack coilpacks in first and see how it goes. I live near Knox but yeh will see how the new coilpacks go first

HDCB's are terrible for taking constant abuse (like a full track day). The centre and the ceramic are attached so you can't rebuild them modularly when they wear out, they suck for daily driving and are no more durable than a regular HD.

basically HDCB's are for people who want to feel like they're using a brass button without any of the durability or benefits.

You either buy an HD which is cheap to maintain, gives good grip and slips enough to daily drive, or you get your balls in a bunch and buy a brass button. HDCB is for fags.

Heavy flywheel + snappy clutch = good

Light flywheel + snappy clutch = shockloaded drivetrain

this.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Hope the cans went down well at least 
    • 255 can't go wrong with the price.
    • When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit. It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing. https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.
×
×
  • Create New...