Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I went to a import dealer today to look at a 1999 R34 GTR Vspec they have for sale.

The dealer stated to me that during compliance, the intake and exhaust gas temp gauges are disabled on the multi function display.

However he said that they can be re-enabled.

My questions are:

1. Did your Australian complianced Vspec have these two functions disabled?

2. If they where were you able to re-enable them?

3. If you did, how was it done?

Anyone out there kind enough to reply with some info is greatly appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/310891-question-for-r34-gtr-vspec-owners/
Share on other sites

hmmm Never heard of them being disabled, and for what reason?

Is it realy a vspec? did it have the sensor in the intercooler?

You could run a check of the vin on Nissan fast or check if the the sensor is in place or run the diagnostics on the mfd.

Diagnostic mode

1) Turn the key to the "OFF" position

2) Push and hold the joystick

3) Turn the key to the "ON" position while still holding down the joystick

4) Release the joystick at least 1 second after the "GT-R logo" appears.

5) Click the joystick 5 times within the next 3 seconds.

This will show all the working sensors and if the are in the car and connected they will show up. (note: some need to reach operating temp before they work)

Good to see your checking sounds a little dodgy to me...

Edited by 99 GTT

Wow, I've never heard of that excuse before. Very creative but it's pure and simple, it's total bollocks. Our raws workshop comply R34 GT-R's including V Spec's and the simple answer is no, we dont disconnect those sensors. It has absolutely no purpose to disconnect them, unless the dealer is trying to sell you a car that's not what is claimed to be.

Wow, I've never heard of that excuse before. Very creative but it's pure and simple, it's total bollocks. Our raws workshop comply R34 GT-R's including V Spec's and the simple answer is no, we dont disconnect those sensors. It has absolutely no purpose to disconnect them, unless the dealer is trying to sell you a car that's not what is claimed to be.

Seeing as you are a RAWs workshop then I will take your word for it (I won't mention your name to the dealer).

I only had a quick look at the car today so I did not have time to inspect it properly or even turn it on yet/test drive/etc..

At least I know it is a V-Spec (I checked with nissan FAST) but I am a bit put off by the dealers comment about disabling it.

I will do a full investigation and report here once I do.

You are more than welcome to name our workshop as I know we are adhering to the rules.

Also with the vin number, just double check their details with the ones that are actually on the car. The plaque is located on the firewall, if I remember correctly.

Diagnostic mode

1) Turn the key to the "OFF" position

2) Push and hold the joystick

3) Turn the key to the "ON" position while still holding down the joystick

4) Release the joystick at least 1 second after the "GT-R logo" appears.

5) Click the joystick 5 times within the next 3 seconds.

This will show all the working sensors and if the are in the car and connected they will show up. (note: some need to reach operating temp before they work)

Good to see your checking sounds a little dodgy to me...

I went in to diagnostic mode just to have a play around because I was curious.

After doing so, I found that I had lost my exhaust and intake temp display as well!

As mentioned above, the sensors need to be reactivated so for something such as exhaust temp you'll need to be in diagnostic mode and drive until the exhaust temp hits the minimum (400 degrees) before the sensor will be showing as active again.

Below is a picture of the screen after I went in to it and some functions weren't showing up as working.

You'll need to enter diagnostic mode with the engine on to try to reactivate these things.

This is a bit difficult to get the timing right because step 3 of the instructions is to go from OFF to ON while holding the joystick in.

To get in to diagnostic mode with the engine on, I had to time it right so that I pressed the joystick in during the time the car cranked over (and the power to the screen cuts out). Hope you understand what I mean..

th_MFD.jpg

So once the engine is on and you're in diagnostic mode still, you can start reactivating the greyed out sensors.

Eg. Speed, exhaust, F-torque, F/R and L/R G forces, brake..

And done!

th_MFD1-1.jpg

Usually, a quick drive down the street will bring the exhaust temp high enough to get to 400 degrees.

I thought I could do it by sitting in my driveway holding the revs up but it was taking too long haha.

I hope this helps in some way!

Oh and also as mentioned, those sensors don't get disabled during compliance.

My guess is someone went in to diagnostics to play around and couldn't figure out how to reactivate it.

Edited by UnCo
  • 2 weeks later...

I just tried this with my V-Spec, i managed to turn off the bottom two sensors and shit myself because I couldnt get them back on! After a while of stuffing around I figured it out.

So the sensors may just be turned off but I wouldnt have believed it if I had not tried it myself.

You need to use the functions to activate them, so when you have started the car in the diagnostic mode take it for a 5 min drive and you will see all of the items light up by themselves.

I was stressng out when I turned mine off as I couldnt turn them back on, but you will see for example, when you his the brakes, the brake light will illuminate on the MFD.

  • 5 weeks later...

hello

i have r34 gtr v-spec 2002

it's happen to me today and can't back it

i was play around Diagnostic mode and after that i lost the bottom sensor and can't work any more

i try to get Diagnostic mode but i can't not work with me any more !! why

and AWD and LSD not work as well after rebuild the engine may be tps need reprograme ? when hit i get 96% and i lost oil pressure sensor too sowed 0 and go to 1 and stop

i hate the car now no thing work !!

any body have same problem ad can't get Diagnostic mode

Duckyys, AFAIK the G-Meter is on the Nismo MFD?

I actually only found that out when I hopped in another GT-R and realised it didn't have it whereas mine did.

Diagnostic mode

1) Turn the key to the "OFF" position

2) Push and hold the joystick

3) Turn the key to the "ON" position while still holding down the joystick

4) Release the joystick at least 1 second after the "GT-R logo" appears.

5) Click the joystick 5 times within the next 3 seconds.

To get in to diagnostic mode with the engine on, this is what I did.

- Key in the ON position but engine off still.

- Turn the key to START the car. In the split second the power to the screen turns off, press and hold the joystick in.

- When the GT-R logo sppears, click the joystick 5 times within 3 seconds.

It might take a few tries at this to work because the timing of pushing the joystick when the screen is off has to be right.

Once you are in diagnostic mode with the engine turned on, drive up and down the street until all the sensors have turned green.

To recalibrate the TPS follow these instructions.

1. Turn the key to the OFF position.

2. Press and hold "RETURN" and "MODE" buttons at the same time.

3. Turn the key to the ON position while still holding down RETURN and MODE buttons.

4. When the GT-R logo appears, release the RETURN and MODE buttons and click the joystick 5 times within 3 seconds.

You will then enter the calibration for TPS.

It will be in Japanese, but the first screen asks you to have 0% throttle and press the joystick.

Then it will ask you to hold 100% throttle and press the joystick.

Then it will show you a guage to confirm.

Turn off the car to exit.

Edited by UnCo

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys, has anyone either purchased or built themselves a rotisserie for their car before? I can only just justify the need for one hence why I should just make one but at the same time, if I make one I can kiss another 4 weeks of potentially productive car working time goodbye because I'm building a bloody rotisserie....  I mainly want it for the application of the body deadener.  Cleaning the old stuff off, priming and then colour over the deadener doesn't worry me, it's just the application using the Schutz Gun that I feel would achieve a significantly better finish painting it side on and keeping the Schutz Gun upright.  I don't think they would work well on the side let alone almost upside down for some areas.  If the product I use (Terosun, etc) could work through a HVLP ok then it might be ok to apply without the rotisserie.   I can get one of these style ones for about $1200 which is pretty good value-     I reckon if I made one it would cost around $500 but it's more the time that it would take is more of a killer than the cost.  They look to hold their value pretty well second hand so I could always sell it after using it and realistically only lose $200-$300 at worst.  Or keep it and buy another project when this one finally sees the light of day... Anyone selling one...? Cheers!  
    • While it is a very nice idea to put card style AFMs into the charge pipe (post intercooler, obviously), the position of the AFM and the recirc valve relative to each other starts to become something that you really have to consider. The situation: The stock AFM is located upstream the turbo, and the recirc valve return is located between the AFM and the turbo inlet, aimed at the turbo inlet, so that it flows away from and not through the AFM. Thus, once metered air is not metered again, neither flowing forwards, or backwards, when vented out of the charge pipe. When you put the AFM between the turbo outlet and the TB, there is a volume of pressurised charge pipe upstream of the AFM and there is a volume of pressurised pipe downstream of the AFM. When the recirc valve opens and vents the charge pipe, air is going to flow from both ends of the charge pipe towards the recirc valve. If the recirc valve is in the stock location, then the section between it and the TB doesn't really matter here - you're not going to try to put the AFM in that piece of pipe. But the AFM will likely be somewhere between the intercooler and the recirc valve, So the entire charge pipe volume from that position (upstream of the AFM, back through the intercooler, to the turbo outlet) is going to flow through the AFM, get registered as combustion air, cause the ECU to fuel for it, but get dumped out of the recirc valve and you will end up with a typical BOV related rich spike. So ideally you want to put the AFM as close to the TB as possible (so, just upstream of the crossover pipe, assuming that the stock crossover is still in use, or, just before the TB if an FFP is being used) and locate the recirc valve at the turbo outlet. Recirc valve at the turbo outlet is the new normal for things like EFRs anyway. In the even of a recirc valve opening dumping all the air in the charge pipe, pretty much all of it is going to go backwards, from the TB to the recirc valve near the turbo outlet. But only a small portion of it (that between the TB and the AFM) will pass through the AFM, and it will pass through going backwards. The card style AFMs are somewhat more immune to reading flow that passes through them in reverse than older AFMs are, so you should absolutely minimise the rich pulse behaviour associated with the unavoidable outcome of having both a recirc valve and an AFM in the charge pipe.
    • Yep, in my case as soon as I started hearing weird noises I backed off the tension until it sounded normal again. Delicate balance between enough tension to avoid that cold start slip and too much damaging things.
    • I'm almost at a point where I feel like changing the alternator. Need to check the stuff you mentioned first though.
×
×
  • Create New...