Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

HKS it is- 2535

iv always liked the damn hot girls so i might as well apply my rule here too ;)

Im finding this topic very interesting cause i have a 2871r 56trim highflow on my r33, and ive been wondering wether it be worth while tossing the r33standard housing and getting a .86A/R or OP6 housing or just getting a gt3076 and selling mine.

It is very responsive indeed, good push in the back from low revs, great mid range, but runs out of steam after about 5500 - 6000rpm.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/310927-86-64/page/3/#findComment-5890599
Share on other sites

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

ive been wondering wether it be worth while tossing the r33standard housing and getting a .86A/R or OP6 housing or just getting a gt3076.

It is very responsive indeed, good push in the back from low revs, great mid range, but runs out of steam after about 5500 - 6000rpm.

I went through the same thing with my 48T GT2871 high flow. Even sourced an OP6 housing. And then went with a 3076.

The torque drop you're experiencing beyond 6000 might have you thinking the car is slow, but I later came to realise mine was anything but slow. It was just fuss-free with heaps down low and mid range, and I had to drive it in its sweet zone to get the best from it.

If the power number doesn't faze you, there might be an economical housing upgrade from the stock R33 to one of Hypergear's 0.63 jobs to fit your cartridge. Check what Stao's comments in this thread have been, and get in touch directly.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/310927-86-64/page/3/#findComment-5891352
Share on other sites

I went through the same thing with my 48T GT2871 high flow. Even sourced an OP6 housing. And then went with a 3076.

The torque drop you're experiencing beyond 6000 might have you thinking the car is slow, but I later came to realise mine was anything but slow. It was just fuss-free with heaps down low and mid range, and I had to drive it in its sweet zone to get the best from it.

If the power number doesn't faze you, there might be an economical housing upgrade from the stock R33 to one of Hypergear's 0.63 jobs to fit your cartridge. Check what Stao's comments in this thread have been, and get in touch directly.

Yeah it is quite ideal for a street car really, but you get used to the power and want more hey, so 3076 eventually will be the go..

my bro has a gt2540 (76mm comp, 53exhaust) and that thing is crazy, bit more lag than mine but his mid and top end sounds like its possessed...

hes probably making round 220kw. but has done flat 13's and could break into high 12's... and this is all with less than a bar of boost..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/310927-86-64/page/3/#findComment-5891850
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Diagnosing with and without is mostly the same. You need to know, as Duncan asked, and what conditions. Car hot, cold, idling, driving, if while driving what rpms, is when you're varying, or is it when held constant.   From there it's understanding what can be causing it. Starting with pretending all of the sensors are correct. Which means if it's going rich, why would it be thinking more air is going in than it is, and under what conditions. So things like if only when under boost, it could be be a loose intake piping joint. It's just understanding the system, and understanding when/how the problem occurs, and then if it's only occuring in specific scenarios, what can be causing it.   ECU specifically, if it's aftermarket, it'll have software you can use, for the Skylines on factory ECU, there is Nissan Consult you can use. Most ECUs have a way to get data from them.
    • How do you go about diagnosing ecu's that don't have data logging, is it more experience at that point and just trying out things that you think will fix the issue?
    • Stock O2 are basically useless beyond anything at stoich. Any misfire will also be seen as lean. The stock O2 also read a collective exhaust gas volume, not each cylinder. Sputtering and missing means not each cycle is firing, and some are. Which means even if rich, as shit, on cylinders as they miss, they'll read lean, but the cylinders that did fire will read rich, and combined, well, they can read anything from rich to lean.   Start with the basics before even going looking at sensor values.   Edit: I say the above, and that's coming from the guy with a few thousand dollars worth of scan tools sitting right beside me right now that I use frequently for my job.
    • I just finished up a manual swap and I have a 1999 S2 AWD automatic in my garage, depending on where you are located. I'm in the the midwest of the US.
    • I’ve heard it can be done, you need to redrill the holes where they bolt to the chassis and apart from that they are the same. I’ve never done it or know anyone personally that has, it’s just something I’ve heard 
×
×
  • Create New...