Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have one serious question, please excuse my ignorance and give me a constructive answer if one is needed :) Why do most of us want/need an aftermarket boost gauge? The factory item goes up to 1.5 bar, and I and probably most others don't plan to run much more than 1 bar without some serious engine mods, so why do so many people want aftermarket gauges?

I had one on my car when I got it, but it was half-blocking the tacho and I found myself bouncing off the redline way too often because I couldn't see it! So I took it out, plugged up the extra vacuum line hole and have been using the dash one and the digital readout on the boost controller ever since. They both match up almost perfectly too. At 0.8 bar on the Greddy box, reading about halfway to 7 on the dash gauge.

JimX.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3111-what-boost-guage/#findComment-53470
Share on other sites

Originally posted by JimX

I have one serious question, please excuse my ignorance and give me a constructive answer if one is needed :) Why do most of us want/need an aftermarket boost gauge? The factory item goes up to 1.5 bar, and I and probably most others don't plan to run much more than 1 bar without some serious engine mods, so why do so many people want aftermarket gauges?  

JimX.

I always thought the boost gauge built in standard on my dash just went to 7psi?

I have a Greddy Recall boost gauge. I have different options of how i wanna view my gauge. I can view boost in real time eg exactly what boost i am pumping out right now or i flick it to memory and it shows me the highest amount of boost i have used throughout my travel. Good for measuring how much boost i have coming through after winding up or down. It cam with the car but if you can get a Greddy recall boost gauge go for it it is pretty cool!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3111-what-boost-guage/#findComment-53520
Share on other sites

The factory boost gauge is way too slow to react to quick changes and spikes. I certainally would use it to set your bleed valve.

Plus the factory boost gauge isn't in psi. I think 7 on he factory gauge is somewhere around the 14psi mark.

If you want a after market boost gauge that looks factory, have a look at the VDO range. The 52mm ones have -20 Vac through to 25psi, are black faced, black bezel, white numbers and red needle.

I think they are around the $150 mark each.

I have a twin A pillar gauge holder in mine with a oil temp and boost gauge from VDO, and I'm always asked it is factory cause it blends in well with the dash.

But I've been thinking about moving them down to under the stereo....... Hmmmmm, not sure yet......

J

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3111-what-boost-guage/#findComment-53569
Share on other sites

Yeah as Jay95R33 said the factory gauge isn't in psi, it's in 100x mm of Mercury, and 7 of those I thought was around 1.5 bar but after double-checking the formula it's actually around 1 bar (13.535746 psi to be almost precise). So at max boost I must be getting a bit over halfway on my gauge. Anyway even at 1 bar it's good enough for me for the time being.

Jay95R33, I agree it's pretty slow to change, but I've also got my digital readout on the Greddy boost controller which is pretty much instantaneous.

I dunno, I think I will take the one I removed from my steering column and mount it on the A-pillar one day, but for the time being I don't see it as an essential item. I definitely wouldn't use the factory gauge to set anything up to precision, but I think for general driving it's good enough. As long as you're running 1 bar or less :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3111-what-boost-guage/#findComment-53594
Share on other sites

Some of you guys pay mega bucks for guages! Far out.....

I just bought a Speco boost guage. Its white faced, has a silver rim, goes to 30 psi, and 30 IN-Hg vac. It cost me $62.

Also bought the Speco chrome cup to go with it, this was $40.

Not bad I thought, considering i paid about $150 for the autometre boost guage I had in my old ET pulsar, with out the cup.... :D

Steve

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3111-what-boost-guage/#findComment-53661
Share on other sites

| hype^ |, no. But I have an electronic boost controller with a digital readout, and a dial to set it from the dash instead of the engine bay. Sure I would use my Autometer gauge to set the boost if I had to use the bleed valve but I don't think I'd leave it in there permanently. It was certainly in the most ridiculous spot when I got the car on top of the steering column, if I put it back it's going on the A-pillar.

Just over half on the factory gauge is about 0.6-0.7 bar I'm guessing. Exactly halfway *should* be around 0.5 bar (7psi), but it could just be a margin of error in the boost gauge.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3111-what-boost-guage/#findComment-53872
Share on other sites

MIC, a good way to do it is find an uphill stretch of road where you can load up the engine in 3rd gear. At 5000 rpm thiis is pretty quick so chose your road wisely.

HYPE, if you have the standard boost control (factory) you will get an increase in boost at around 4500 rpm to about .8 bar/11 psi/570 mmHg. Below that you will only get around 7 psi.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3111-what-boost-guage/#findComment-54402
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It still combines inches with mm, especially when you have .5 inches involved, and mm and inches that can go in either direction. This would give a clear idea on both sides of the rim, right away, with no arithmetic. Even better if somebody gives you the dimensions of the arch of multiple cars. i.e GTR may be 125mm, a A80 Supra may be 117mm, or something along those lines. Yes, you can 'know' that going from a 10in rim to a 10.5in rim with the same offset moves both sides about 6mm, but you still have to 'know' that and do the math. Often it's combined. People are going from 9.5 +27 to 10.5 +15. You may do the math to know it, but if it was going from (I had to go look it up to be sure) 241mm/2 - 27 - 93.5mm from the center line to (more math) 266/2 - 15 (118mm) from the center line. Versus 93mm vs 118mm. It's right there. If you know you have a GTT with 100mm guards you can see right away that one is close to flush and the other absolutely won't work. And when someone says "Oh the GTR is 120mm" suddenly you see that the 10.5 +15 is about perfect. (or you go and buy rims with approximately 118mm outward guard space) I think it's safe to say that given one of the most common questions in all modified cars is "How do offsets work" and "How do I know if wheels will fit on my car" that this would be much simpler... Of course, nothing will really change and nobody is going to remanufacture wheels and ditch inches and offset based on this conversation :p We'll all go "18x9+30 will line up pretty close to the guards for a R34 GTT (84mm)" but 'pretty close' is still not really defined (it is now!) and if you really care you still have go measure. Yes it depends on camber and height and dynamic movement, but so do all wheels no matter what you measure it for.
    • But offsets are simple numbers. 8" wheel? Call it 200mm, near enough. +35 offset? OK, so that means the hub face is that far out from the wheel centreline. Which is 2s of mental arithmetic to get to 65mm to outer edge and 135mm to inner. It's hardly any more effort for any other wheel width or offset. As I said, I just close my eyes and can see a picture of the wheel when given the width and offset. That wouldn't help me trust that a marginal fitment would actually go in and clear everything, any more than the supposedly simple numbers you're talking about. I dunno. Maybe I just automatically do numbers.
    • Sure! But you at least have simple numbers instead of 8.5 inches +/mm, relative to your current rims you do maths with as well, and/or compare with OEM diameter, which you also need to know/research/confirm..
    • Uniclutch install vid, RB Track edition.   Highlight reel is very drive able, not noisy but still heavy with the clutch master he has.      
×
×
  • Create New...