Jump to content
SAU Community

Sw20 Track Car

gtstcruiser67
 Share

Recommended Posts

gtstcruiser67 Community Regular

gtstcruiser67

Posted
Posted

I did own a R33 GTST a few years ago which has since been sold. A few years ago I decided to build a deicated track car to have some fun with. One thing lead to another and ended up with the car you see now.

I spent 12mths building the car to a level to get to the track and get started then develop the car more as time goes by. Its that little 'I can make it better' syndrome most of us suffer who are into cars. .

What I have now is stage one with more to come in due course.

Handing:

A few people helped a lot regarding the set up for the car which I took on board and added to the car. This included the lowering of the rollcetre with adjustment plates on the ball joint(32mm), lowering the rear toe adjustment links then fitting AE86 toe links( with persausion..),lowering the steering tie rods, the caster links have also been lowered. The RCA's also have a camber adjustment which sets the camber at about 2.5-2.7. All urethene or rose joint llinks throughout the car. Suspension is Tein coilovers with 8kg(Tein) rear and 7.5kg(Eibach) up front. Sway bars are 22mm front and rear.

The Chassis:

Seam welded front and rear strut towers, all front and rear internal panels, structual panels, windscreen frame, door frames, rear window and other bits and pieces.

Installed a 10 point bonded CDS CAMS spec rollcage which starts at the the front strut tower and finished at the rear.

Weight reduction:

Every bolt was cut back, doors cut to shreads, deadner removed, second rear firewall removed, steering column replaced with toyota echo column to save 5+kg,lexan windows, all unnessessary fittings removed, rewire.

So I went a little crazy but had a great ime inthe process.

Other Mods:

Improved radiator air flow with ducting

Relocated the IC to above the engine

Relocated the air intake to the top of the engine bay

Oil cooler

Apexi AVCR

Internal door handle is now stainless steel wire cable pull system

Rear wing mounted through to the chassis rails

Incar camera for rear view

Reloacted lights to the front bar

Pumped gaurds(IT came with this)

And the list does on..

The weight is close to 1050kg or less. I will weigh the car soon enough but based on the log I have this is a pretty close estimate.

The engine has a few little mods which help but I have yet ot see its potential due to a problem we created with the rewire. Should be fixed soon.

Paint:

I found the colour scheme on a F430 that runs on ALMS. We masked and painted it in two pac one sunday.

The future plans:

Im installing a new brake system at the moment with a run expected in a week or two. Just waiting on the caliper spacers and a few other items. Its 330x35 front(Alcon 'C' spec calipers), 300x35(wilwood superlites), Tilton series 600 triple floor mounted pedal box, adjustable brake bias.

Fuel system will updated soon

More weight reduction

More weight reduction!

Undertray

Additional bracing to the front and rear chassis rails before superlap

Diff and the typical engine mods to see 200-240kw at the wheels

I to will be running with EVO at superlap this year and the car will hopefully be reliable and holds it manners and not eject me into the sand too often.

It is loud and total blast to drive

Here are the pic's

IMG_0023.jpg

IMG_4880.jpg

IMG_0025.jpg

Mon_0247.jpg

Mon_0858.jpg

IMG_0212.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/311172-sw20-track-car/
Share on other sites
phunky_monkey Grand Master

phunky_monkey

Posted
Posted
Have always wanted to build up an MR2 from when i lived in Sydney and was a customer of BD4s. Paul's MR2 and the customer with the red one pushed the limits for the lil MR2s locally for a good many years

Currently for sale Troy: http://my105.com/classified.asp?id=14682

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/311172-sw20-track-car/#findComment-5137059
Share on other sites
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Murray_Calavera
      HKS stroker kit step 0/1 or HKS GTIII 2530

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Reading your posts Josh, sometimes I feel like I've gone in a time machine back to the 90's when everyone was doe-eyed and figuring things out for the first time.  I've lost track of how many single turbo GTR's I've seen on track that haven't burnt down lol. Everything has been figured out a long time ago. These things are at the point now where its essentially turn-key to go single turbo. 
    • joshuaho96
      HKS stroker kit step 0/1 or HKS GTIII 2530

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Among other things yes. Making sure to either use an oil pressure regulator or the right restrictor size for your oil pump/range of oil viscosities you intend to run, making sure you plumb the lines correctly, turbo should be placed such that it siphons properly even when the water pump isn't turning so you don't boil coolant in the turbo after shutdown, oil return should be low resistance and also preferably picking the one that is most likely to return to the pickup as opposed to some other irrelevant part of the pan. It's far from impossible to figure this out but I have seen people really, really struggle and if that's the case it's easier to just take the path of least resistance. To me, bolt-on twin turbos are a fixed cost whereas single turbo is almost unbounded.
    • Looney_Head
      R32 GTS-t RB30 sedan

      By Looney_Head · Posted

      Latest round of updates on the car. I purchased and installed a SWS clutch slipper to help with 60ft times and got some second-hand good condition 275/40R17 Hoosier DR2 radials. Test and tune in November showed the tyres were an upgrade over my over 15 year old mickey Thompson's and I got a 1.8 second 60ft and pb et of 11.71 but even then, that run wasn't great due to rain and driver error (the event got called off 10 minutes later fast forward to the weekend just gone 25th of Jan and there was finally a break in the weather to let racing happen. The first run the track was slippery and only managed a 12.1@129 Second run the track was better and got a new pb et and mph: 11.54@131   Lith and I then worked out that I installed the previously mentioned clutch slipper incorrectly and its never been working, and I had just been dumping the clutch the entire time, we also noticed it was on street boost and not race boost. So I lined up for a third run with the car turned up in the first two gears, but the passengers side axle objected to clutch dumps and left the chat which stopped my weekend.   so there will be another attempt in the future once I replace the tyres as they rubbed and are stuffed now. but a low 11 should be on the cards.
    • GTSBoy
      HKS stroker kit step 0/1 or HKS GTIII 2530

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Ceramic coating and heat shielding, you mean?
    • joshuaho96
      HKS stroker kit step 0/1 or HKS GTIII 2530

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Turbos don't require pulling the motor apart so that's "easier". I would recommend the Nismo R3 turbos instead if you want to do stock twin turbo. It doesn't make as much power as the 2530s but it's only like ~50 whp off the mark and should have better response (ball bearing CHRA, slightly smaller turbo). A local that went with a Garrett G30 and 6boost manifold recently nearly burned his car to the ground after the hood insulator started melting and and burning so if you go single turbo I recommend doing a lot of research and validation work to make sure you don't do the same.
×
×
  • Create New...