Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey every one new owner of a sereis 1.5 r33.

Just had my car on the dyno the other day and my results were not what i expected. From what ive seen of the cars on this site and the type of mods my cars output is somewhat lacking. with 154rwkw @10psi. im thinking theres something other than the obvious wrong. Below is a list of the mods and what need attention.

PFC

Modified factory plenum to face forward

FMIC

exhaust and dump

pod filter

Now i know the coil packs need to replaced so that explains why it cannot boost over 10psi, ive just seen some other power outputs at this level of boost with roughly 180rwkw can the coil packs also effect the power outpout at lower boost levels as well. shouldnt there still be sufficient spark?

Was wondering other peoples thoughts on my situation.

Kind regards

Chris

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/311183-new-owner-of-r33-power-question/
Share on other sites

What do you expect afrs to tell you? They could be spot on but there could be a lack of timing...

How do you know it needs coilpacks?

Does it break down and splutter during the run?

If so how can you expect it to be making power.

Its amazing what healthy fuel and ignition systems can do.

You'll notice coil packs breaking down by a sharp stutter in the power delivery - usually higher in the rev range ~4500-5000rpm. If this isn't occurring I would think the coilpacks are fine.

154rwkw for 10psi is pretty low , you should expect at least 175rwkw - but each dyno is different and depends on values put in. Is the torque & power curve fairly linear/expected shape?

Before getting a retune make sure everything is in good condition. Change fuel filter, spark plugs (typical copper ones) and check for boost leaks.

Pretty sure its the coil packs, if you wind up the boost any more than 10psi it will cough and splutter.

Im thinking it might be timing also, it seems doughy and lifeless below 4500, above 5000rpm it really picks up in response. but that was after the tune. (Im hoping once i go back after the coil packs have been replaced, it will make difference

I knew the coil packs were possibley on there way out before the tune, but it was a new car and i wanted to get it checked over before is started driving it, The person who owned it before me wound the boost controller open all the way, and when i got it, the car was running 1.5bar, so im thinking the turbo may also be damaged being stock and all.

THanks for yourt reponsees so far

My S1 R33 made 155rwkw with chipped ECU, turbo back exhaust, K&N panel filter, and 12psi. I went to another dyno and made 190rwkw without changing a thing... Soooooo many variables that affect a dyno reading. Smoothness of curve is going to tell you more about how it's performing.

I had a 'cough and splutter' problem back with my stock ECU (search 'overboost protection'), but re-gapped the spark plugs to 0.8mm and the problem disappeared (@ 10psi). AM ECU should also solve this problem.

I had a Cat back exhaust, and 12ish psi running through my R34 GTT (remember, its 206kw from factory, up abit on the R33's) and it pulled 161rwkw.

My answer, every dyno is different. Does it feel fast to you? Feel good to drive? If so, focus more on that then a piece of paper.

IMO the one real test for power is the 1/4 mile. Track it, get your trap speed, and then work out whether its down on power from where it should be.

  riggaP said:
My S1 R33 made 155rwkw with chipped ECU, turbo back exhaust, K&N panel filter, and 12psi. I went to another dyno and made 190rwkw without changing a thing... Soooooo many variables that affect a dyno reading. Smoothness of curve is going to tell you more about how it's performing.

I had a 'cough and splutter' problem back with my stock ECU (search 'overboost protection'), but re-gapped the spark plugs to 0.8mm and the problem disappeared (@ 10psi). AM ECU should also solve this problem.

he is running a PFC, so ecu isn't an issue

looks like you have some sort of issue going on there judging by the dyno graph (depending on a few things). are you running a boost controller or is the 10psi just what it is climbing to on it's own?

to be honest, i would put it down to being one of a few possible things.

1: tired engine

2: crap tune

3: the foward facing plenum (wouldn't be the whole cause, but certainly won't be helping the situation and may be part of the cause of the tired engine as you will get uneven airflow which can result in major leaning out in cylinders 5 and 6 and running rich in 1 and 2. the plenums are designed to have air come in from the side so having it come in from the front is going to give drastically different flow characteristics than what it was designed to have)

  Granthem said:
I had a Cat back exhaust, and 12ish psi running through my R34 GTT (remember, its 206kw from factory, up abit on the R33's) and it pulled 161rwkw.

My answer, every dyno is different. Does it feel fast to you? Feel good to drive? If so, focus more on that then a piece of paper.

IMO the one real test for power is the 1/4 mile. Track it, get your trap speed, and then work out whether its down on power from where it should be.

you also have to remember that all stock power outputs are measured at the flywheel, so you will never have a stock car make on a dyno what the power is quoted to be. also you were running 12psi through the stock dump/front pipe and cat, which is an area of substantial restriction so you wouldn't be making as much power as a 33 with a turbo back exhaust, and probably not much more power than if you dropped the boost back down to 10psi. also the stock side mount cooler suffers from heat soak pretty quickly. even though it is bigger than a 33 one it is still small.

a basic rule you can use is, the power in kw at the flywheel (so power quoted by the manufacturer) will equal the power in HP at the wheels. so if a car has 200kw at the flywheel, it will have around 200hp at the wheels, or about 150kw at the wheels. it isn't exact but it is pretty close to.

  mad082 said:
you also have to remember that all stock power outputs are measured at the flywheel, so you will never have a stock car make on a dyno what the power is quoted to be. also you were running 12psi through the stock dump/front pipe and cat, which is an area of substantial restriction so you wouldn't be making as much power as a 33 with a turbo back exhaust, and probably not much more power than if you dropped the boost back down to 10psi. also the stock side mount cooler suffers from heat soak pretty quickly. even though it is bigger than a 33 one it is still small.

a basic rule you can use is, the power in kw at the flywheel (so power quoted by the manufacturer) will equal the power in HP at the wheels. so if a car has 200kw at the flywheel, it will have around 200hp at the wheels, or about 150kw at the wheels. it isn't exact but it is pretty close to.

Oh yeh sorry didnt mean to confuse you. I know stock power outputs are at the flywheel, I more meant it as in the 20odd kw flywheel advantage will of course equate to a generally slightly higher figure at the wheels then an R33.

Yeh my car had 215rwhp, so 215 engine Kw is possibly close to what it really had. Either way at the track it ran 160km traps which was ok imo

  Quote
he is running a PFC, so ecu isn't an issue

looks like you have some sort of issue going on there judging by the dyno graph (depending on a few things). are you running a boost controller or is the 10psi just what it is climbing to on it's own?

to be honest, i would put it down to being one of a few possible things.

1: tired engine

2: crap tune

3: the foward facing plenum (wouldn't be the whole cause, but certainly won't be helping the situation and may be part of the cause of the tired engine as you will get uneven airflow which can result in major leaning out in cylinders 5 and 6 and running rich in 1 and 2. the plenums are designed to have air come in from the side so having it come in from the front is going to give drastically different flow characteristics than what it was designed to have)

Yeah i thought as much, ill have to do a comp check next time i have a day off, im also looking at replacing the plenum with one from plasmaman

As far as the tune goes, im not fussed about out right power, i just want a nice responsive engine. hopefully when i get a new set of coil packs in it he can run out the sluggishness.

Thanks for all your help so far will update once i get the coil packs in.

Chris

Edited by toorock which
  ssxRicho said:
isnt the boost climbing a little to slow? its the standard turbo? i remember you

would sneeze on the throttle and mine would be at 10psi.

that depends on whether he has the boost set at 10psi, or whether he is using the stock actuaotr setup and it is simply creeping up to 10psi. if he is using the stock setup then that is fine. if he is using a boost controller to set it to 10psi then there is something wrong

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...