Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a series 1.5 and pulled 165rwkw on stock boost with only an exhaust and front mount - sounds like something is seriously wrong with your tune and/or engine. Even conservative dynos shouldn't be showing what you got.

Ive not seen a apexi boost controller before but thats what ive been told the car has, When i bought the car though it was running 1.5bar with the stock turbo, im hoping the power delivery isnt to do with the turbo being stuffed?

Errr...1.5 bar? I wouldn't run 1 bar on the standard turbo. The fact it hasn't blown itself to pieces is nothing short of extraordinary - consider yourself lucky you only have power loss! I suspect it might be damaged though?

i wouldn't jump to that conclusion just yet. generally if the turbo is shagged then it generally won't build boost at all and it will either blow smoke or make horrid noises.

if the car has an electronic boost controller then it may be the gain settings, etc that are causing the slow boost rise. i personally don't like electronic boost controllers for running relatively low boost, but that's just me. if it was me i'd be disconnecting it and getting one of the cheap turbotech boost controllers and running that. also make sure you aren't relying on the stock boost gauge.

another thing to look for is broken manifold studs. pop the bonnet and look at the exhaust manifold to see if there are any studs missing. there should be 2 per cylinder. if he was running that much boost then it wouldn't suprise me if there are a few broken since the cars are getting on a bit now and nearly everyone i know (people i actually know, not just randomly talk to on here) with a 33 have had a broken manifold stud. i did with mine, as did a mate who i put a bigger turbo on for, and as does another mate with a 33.

Im not sure how you go about changing the gain on this boost controller, unless its done by the pfc?.

I have changed the gaskets on the manifold and the turbo and all the studs seem to be intact.

Would the turbo behave this way if it was only slightly damaged ie: small chips on the blades?

Im thinking maybe the tuner has retarded the ignition, i have not looked at the service manual for an r33 yet and have not had a chance to check it myself, also im not sure if he can alter the timing under load in which case im not sure about checking it at all.

Thanks for the response.

Chris

  • 1 month later...

Hey all

just an updateon this thread. have purchaseda set of the yellow jacks coil packs and they have made a massive difference to the car. Havent had the chance to get another tune but the car is much more drivable and much better on fuel (still drinks like a fish) 350klm's to a tank max.

Another question relating to my PFC, i was looking through the settings menu and within the afm menu i discovered an option ive not heard of before. There is a listing for a Super Intake afm just below the Normal R33, have done a search but cannot find any info on this, i am just curious

Regards

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok glad you clarified on the frenchy’s options , I was worried about if my oem hoses would fit the new compressor or not if I just bought the bracket/compressor kit ,  didn’t realize they also sold a larger full conversion kit. Hmm may just go oem in that case then to make it easy only because I plan to sell this car to upgrade to a 32 GTR or 34 GTT.
    • Right, here's a video of the basic operation at least.  This is what you can expect day to day when you turn the car on and it boots from standby.  The only thing from a media point of view I haven't gotten working is for it to autoplay plexamp when it turns on from standby (it works from cold boot) but that's more of a plexamp problem as it will autoplay other music players.  Also attached is my one stray cable.  It's part of the screen's wiring adapters but there's just nowhere for it to go in my car.  I've just now done a bit of research and found a matching port on a 2010-2014 head unit with BOSE.  Mine has no BOSE so that's that case pretty much closed I think.  Plugging in the Infiniti AC panel basically did nothing for me, so that's a dead end as well.  Next port of call is to mess with this CANBUS module and see what I can find from it.  I found this resource containing the DBC files for a 2010+ G37 : https://github.com/icecube45/Dash_InfinitiG37/blob/master/InfinitiG37.dbc I'll now have something to go from when I try to extract my CANBUS data so I can see if the HVAC Mode, Fan Speed, Temperature, etc. match and also the gear shifter position.  It's a pretty big assumption that it's just mismatched CAN signals but considering all the devices in the CAN network are talking to each other (AC can be fully adjusted just with no info on screen) it might be a safe one.  I will report back WhatsApp Video 2025-02-26 at 12.49.10.mp4
    • Thanks for that Paul.  Do you think if I posted a picture you'd be able to remember where it went? 
    • Sorry Duncan, I didn't get a notification for the replies.  Thanks for responding!  It's a full Android device, but does allow you to use CarPlay/AA as well.  This is the one I bought from NaviRS on AliExpress: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006368602668.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.111.59aa1802JDzQ0E - the 2K 8G-256G CAM variant but it seems to have gone up by £170 since I bought it!  My purchase was £307.14.   It's not the fastest thing in the world but performs perfectly adequately.  It stays on standby unless I disconnect the battery and let it power down, then it's just a fairly standard Android bootup time from cold.  The DSP Equaliser is very nice and made the standard stereo system sound pretty decent compared to the stock screen.  Perhaps I can take a video of it when I get a sec. It *allegedly* supports the reverse camera, but I'm yet to get that working.  It has options for reverse cam (a camera unit can be bought separately) or 360 cameras (also bought separately).  To be fair it doesn't seem to detect that the shifter was put into reverse but I'm working on a theory about this as well.  At the moment I'm going without which is a bit annoying considering the car is an absolute canal barge but so far I haven't caused any damage I'll grab a picture of the wire I'm missing later today when I can get outside.  My theory, by the by, is that not only is the head unit different, but the CANBUS network has different signals for the different years.  I think this because I have a spare AC panel from a newer Infiniti G37 (as opposed to my Nissan panel) which wouldn't control anything except the volume when I had it wired up with the stock system.  I'm going to throw it back in and see if the screen will respond to it.  I've just ordered an arduino CANBUS module so I can have a look at the signals going around the car and see if I can spot anything.  I'm thinking if I can work out what it's expecting vs what it's getting I might be able to translate and relay the signal back but so far just a theory anyway. I also found this on my travels, so far the only one that specifically matches my car: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002822934280.html?spm=a2g0s.imconversation.0.0.33433e5fgttovi If you look at the picture of the before, it has the card reader slot, and the picture of the head unit is exactly the same as the one pictured in my original post.  I asked if they sell the cables separately but sadly they won't.  I didn't want to just buy this one because it's a super old Android version and only dual core - likely slow as hell. 
    • As above, you did refill the coolant and burp the system before running it again didn't you?
×
×
  • Create New...