Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My radiator was recently re-corded after crashing my R33 GTS-t. I picked the radiator up today and it feels heavier. I know it was aluminium before because it wasn't painted and was really light. Now the entire radiator has been sprayed black and im thinking it’s something other then aluminium.

I have no experience with radiators and just wondered if it’s easy to tell by looking at it? I want to get more of an idea before I ask the guys who fixed it.

It cost me $340 for the re-core.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/31146-radiator-re-core-problem/
Share on other sites

AFAIK every radiator recore done for less than $500 is a brass or something. If you want to pay double that you can get a Trust or Koyo race type in polished alloy.

The standard one is alloy but the replacements are better. I have a triple core in mine.

T.

Is that a triple core copper or aluminium. hey do you know how to tell how many core your radiator is?

Copper has better heat sinking properties than aluminium so it's probably going to be a more effective radiator. But it has a fair bit of extra weight, and I imagine it's not nearly as corrosion-resistant, so I dunno.

Either way, copper is more expensive than aluminium. Whether a better option or not, you got a more expensive radiator for your money.

Triple core refers to the number of layers the radiator has. The easiest way to tell is by the thickness of the radiator. A single core is usually only no more than 10-12mm thick. U can count the number of cores by looking down the  radiator through the top

Looking through the radiator cap hole it has two holes for each fin which run from top to bottom. I guess this means double core.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don’t really have any ideas how to set the timing on the CAS 😂, sounds like the top, sounds like it maybe misfiring as well as ticking,  got the box sorted 😌, must of been a air bubble on the clutch side
    • Use a 2' length of hose (that's 2 foot, not 2 inches) as a stethoscope to localise the source of the ticking. From cam covers? From exhaust or turbo manifold gasket? From injectors? From lower down in the engine? Etc. Use a timing light to set the timing. Put Redline Lightweight Shockproof in the box. It's not the very best thing for the box, but it will take a box that refuses to engage a gear with other oil, and make it engage a gear. I had to put it in when I installed the R33 box I have in my car. It would not select ANY gear when running. Smurf jizz made it work. That was >10 years ago and I still use it. I'm stuck with it now. Failing that - rebuild the box.
    • Well done Duncan. The fuel tank bulkhead lid is also in great condition (some of mine were stuffed). These are now out of production and good ones like that are becoming hard to come by.
    • Wow that's a steal, you've done well there. 
    • Exterior LEDs R34 2Dr R34 4Dr Position Lamp T10 T10 Winker front T20S T20S side T10 T10 rear T20S S25S150 Anti-hyfla relay TYPE3 TYPE3 tail T10 T20W Stop Lamps T20W T20W High Mount T16 T16 back T16 T20S number T10 T10 trunk T10 T10 Interior LED Item No.     Map Lamp BA9S single-sided     Room Lamps T10×31     Trunk Lamp T10     meter Early T6.5 pedestal     final T6.5 pedestal     NISMO T6.5 pedestal     Liquid crystal section T6.5 pedestal     Winker T6.5 pedestal     High Beam T6.5 pedestal     3 SERIES METER Early T6.5 pedestal     final T6.5 pedestal     NISMO T6.5 pedestal     air conditioner Early Liquid Crystal T3     Late LCD T4.2 Short     button T4.2 Middle     Hazard SW T3 Pedestal Short     Keyring T5     Cigar Socket T5
×
×
  • Create New...