Jump to content
SAU Community

Question About Greddy Oil Pan Extension Installation.....

Ramius83

By Ramius83,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Ramius83 Collaborator

Ramius83

Posted
Posted

I have recently had a Greddy Oil Pan Sump Extension welded onto my RB26 oil pan. Of course, being in all Japanese, my welder went by the pictures. He cut the lower pan, welded on the sump pan, and welded the center oil pick-up baffle extension. All seemed good until I went to install.

It seems that the oil pick-up is about 3/16 of an inch off from the bottom of the oil pan, if that. And the long cylinder tube baffle that was welded on sits about 1/8 of an inch off the bottom of the pan., again, if that and almost flush with the bottom of the oil pan.

Does anyone have any pictures of their set-up or if anyone has their pan out, can you get me some pictures? Or does this sound right or wrong? This seems too close to me and I think it will starve the engine of oil. Thanks in advance......

STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted

converting inches to mm as we speak :D

my maths is ass but 3/16 is about 4.5-5mm and 1/8 inch is around 3mm, i will check the clearances for you. Its sounds about right as the std pickup sits 4-5mm off the bottom.

Ramius83 Collaborator

Ramius83

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ok, so I got a little more technical here.

I added some Play-Do (spelling?) to the bottom of the oil pickup and dry-fitted the sump to the engine. I then removed the sump and the Play-Do stuck to the pick-up. Removed the Play-Do and placed on flat table. Using a caliper, I measure about 4mm from the very very very bottom of the pick-up (flared ears) to the bottom of the pan. Does this sound right or too close?

Also, again, regarding the actual baffling. Mine sits about 2-3mm off the bottom of the pan. Is this right? Or again, is it too close? Thanks......

Ramius83 Collaborator

Ramius83

Posted
  • Author
Posted

No, not really. I was hoping for some more useful posts here. I did post in GTROC and was told that it is fine. But I wanted more opinions, especially from peeps here. I trust STATUS's comments, I just wanted a few more before I bolted it on.

I think that I may be freaking out over nothing. But, it doesn't hurt to be extra cautious, especially since this is all being done with my full engine build at the same time.....

BTW, GTROC Link......

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • thomasLait
      New Stegea Owner

      By thomasLait · Posted

      Hey everyone, I recently bought myself a 2001 Nissan Stegea M35, and I've had a few issues that I had to fix, my car would start intermittently and I had a bad rocker cover leak, after a couple days of looking I finally found a part number that interchanges with the OEM starter as the OEM starters at $1300 and I can't afford that, this starter was only $270 and I replaced the start and still had the same issues, I posted a video asking for help online and it went very well, some guy said it was probably a bad ignition switch so I took my dash apart and turns out my ignition switch was half screwed in and was loose, once it was tightened it fired right up, I found a local place called "Boost factory" and they sold me a part of OEM Nissan rocker covers, they were $600 which was a shocker but I couldn't find them anywhere else, so I installed them and fixed my oil leak as the old rocker cover was cracked and warped, I now need to replace my boost air inlet hoses as they have some cracks.
    • drifter17a
      R34 gtt rb25det neo timing belt kit

      By drifter17a · Posted

      I am being real ocd and do not want to make amy mistakes so appreciate all help provided. I am overly cautious so asking for opinion even if i know the answer   few questions,   1.re tensioner, should spring be greased lightly?    2.tensioner has two washers , one pressure washer and other has recessed/ seat. I am going to put the recessed one facing tensioner where edges are cut out and pressure washer on top   3. my car has custom triger kit sold few years ago by guy who initially built the engine. I moved the crank gear and it moved in and out easy, only way to remove belt is to slide the crankshaft gear forward which I did. I have seen these being very tough to move , anything to do with my woodruff key?   it has a crank sensor shown in purple which I assume reads from the 12 teeth position mounted to the crankcase gear   4. timing belt doesn’t have arrow stating front or back just a arrow which I think is direction of rotation . Do you agree?   5.i figured out why my crankcase cover was worn as there was no washer installed over the crankcase cover before the harmonic balancer was put in place. It is missing, anyone knows the part number? It looks like this https://justjap.com/products/genuine-nissan-crankshaft-timing-gear-rear-plate-washer-nissan-s13-ca18-a31-r32-rb20-r33-r34-c33-c34-c35-rb25?currency=USD   https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4535.382Zy2 https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4537.382dSz https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4534.382q4U  
    • TurboTapin
      New fix for low tyre pressure from bmw

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      CTIS (Central Tire Inflation System) has existed since the 80's. I'm looking into buying a Hummer H1 and they generally included it. 
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Another little story of weird shit happening

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
×
×
  • Create New...