Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have recently had a Greddy Oil Pan Sump Extension welded onto my RB26 oil pan. Of course, being in all Japanese, my welder went by the pictures. He cut the lower pan, welded on the sump pan, and welded the center oil pick-up baffle extension. All seemed good until I went to install.

It seems that the oil pick-up is about 3/16 of an inch off from the bottom of the oil pan, if that. And the long cylinder tube baffle that was welded on sits about 1/8 of an inch off the bottom of the pan., again, if that and almost flush with the bottom of the oil pan.

Does anyone have any pictures of their set-up or if anyone has their pan out, can you get me some pictures? Or does this sound right or wrong? This seems too close to me and I think it will starve the engine of oil. Thanks in advance......

converting inches to mm as we speak :D

my maths is ass but 3/16 is about 4.5-5mm and 1/8 inch is around 3mm, i will check the clearances for you. Its sounds about right as the std pickup sits 4-5mm off the bottom.

Ok, so I got a little more technical here.

I added some Play-Do (spelling?) to the bottom of the oil pickup and dry-fitted the sump to the engine. I then removed the sump and the Play-Do stuck to the pick-up. Removed the Play-Do and placed on flat table. Using a caliper, I measure about 4mm from the very very very bottom of the pick-up (flared ears) to the bottom of the pan. Does this sound right or too close?

Also, again, regarding the actual baffling. Mine sits about 2-3mm off the bottom of the pan. Is this right? Or again, is it too close? Thanks......

No, not really. I was hoping for some more useful posts here. I did post in GTROC and was told that it is fine. But I wanted more opinions, especially from peeps here. I trust STATUS's comments, I just wanted a few more before I bolted it on.

I think that I may be freaking out over nothing. But, it doesn't hurt to be extra cautious, especially since this is all being done with my full engine build at the same time.....

BTW, GTROC Link......

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Is there a shroud around the tailshaft spline into the back of the box? They can rub and make a horrible noise if they are not on straight/damaged. The heat might have caused it to grow too much in one direction and rub.
    • Strangely I noticed it either disappear later in the day, or not be present. I definitely noticed when I was crawling around that open wheel thingy entering the pits (that part was audible in car). Driving home and commuting around town for example, I didn't hear it. It's plausible that it was a brake disc or something still slightly in contact. The brakes absolutely felt BAD for the first couple of sessions, huge amounts of shudder and grinding as they got up to temp - And then I actually just forgot about it as the day went on/didn't notice it. The videos were from the morning when this was more present than the afternoon/drive home when it wasn't. I've asked around and got a variety of responses including handbrake shoe contacting hub, CV joints, CB tailshaft bearing as above, and clutch input bearing. I didn't test if it disappeared when clutch was in. I haven't noticed it in any of the other videos nor did I notice it when driving to that extent. More or less hoping the microphone at the rear license plate giving some kind of clue of 'something' but it looks like "spin stuff and see if you can notice it" is the way forward here. I could be smart and use the gopro mic and re-mount it to that location to see if the sound is still present at low speed actually. Sounds like a decent test whenver I have the CBF'ness to drive the car again. Given it's almost 40C for the day of the track day and the next 3 days after, the CBF is high. All I've done since getting home is unpack the car, remove the remnants of the lip and undertray and left it there. I was surprised how well the PMU Club Racers actually worked. The brake performance on the track was absolutely fantastic, best I've ever personally used, no fade whatsoever and the bitiness was almost too good, I was scrubbing more speed off than I needed to, but I also ended up infield when I started trying to scrape off ... less speed.... so...
    • Not really, no. Anything you would do is easily reversible.
    • I would like more noise related info for my truly uneducated guess  Does it do it at idle or when revving, clutch engaged, and disengaged? Does it only do it when the car is moving? I've heard "similar" noises from a clutch pack that left the chat room, and CV joints that have chewed themselves out But as Matt said, how's the yokes, tailshaft and centre bearing going after their last little issue Fingers crossed it is something simple  Weird noises make me cringe 
    • One other question, is there a chance that changing the idle speed can lead you down a rabbit hole and is the reason the tuner didn't touch it? Reason I ask is because if that's the reason the tuner avoided it then I probably shouldn't be touching it lol.
×
×
  • Create New...