Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am thinking about importing a V35 skyline, 4 door as it needs to be practical for the family.

I can't decide on the 2.5L, 3.0L or 3.5L although I am saying toward the 3.5L (same motor as 350Z).

I think that both the 2.5L and 3.0L are direct injection and not shared by a locally delivered Nissan?

My main concern is availability of maintenance parts locally, by that I mean what I can get at my local autoshop (Repco, Autobarn, Bursons etc), i.e aftermarket parts. I know Nissan can get anything.

What is the aftermarket availability of parts for these cars for things like brake rotors, pads, oxygen sensors, oil/air/fuel filters etc?

Also I hear not so good things about the CVT 8 speed. Should I stick to the conventional 5 speed auto?

I have already read about the electrical probs these cars can have like motor actuators, sound systems etc, so can live with that if a problem...

Ideally I'm looking at a 2004+ 4 door 350GT, premium with half leather. Budget is about $20K on road.

Any comments/advice from those who have been down this path?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/311671-v35-skyline-which-model/
Share on other sites

Hi,

I just bought my 2005 V35 250GT lastweek and i'm happy for what i get.

Its does not have leather, Bose sound system and electric seats.

So its have less things to go wrong.

If you after a 350GT sedan, go for the S2 V35.

Also i have the I-key and still getting use to it.

The factory navi screen can still go wrong, as well as the i-key... you're not bullet proof, Son Gokou...

power window and door lock are also candidate to go wrong in these cars... Welcome to Nissan world

all thank's to the good ol Nissan engineering... 10-15 years since the R32/R33 era and they still can't make a reliable power window motor.

happens in local Maxima, 350Z too so it's not a problem anyone can't fix locally - so it's not the end of the world when (not if) that happens.

yep - if you want a bit more power and not too concern on achieving 7-8ltr / 100km in traffic jams, go for 350gt.

some 250gt can return very good fuel economy, and even though they made less power they're not too bad compared to other cars within the same engine size range...

Ive had my 4dr 2004 350gt sedan for a little over 18months now and can def recommend them. Parts are pretty easy. No probs at all with filters pads rotors have replaced all these. Drive belts were a little more difficult becos needed gates racing belts not std ones but even then when I finally bit the bullet and ordered from USA no probs at all. Becos same motor trans as 350z these parts are easy. Body panels etc may be more difficult but that would be same issue whether considering 300gt or 250gt as well.

Check out insurance as they can be pricey for some younger drivers. I'm lucky being older have same cost as a commodore.

I think if after an auto I would prefer the 5spd as cvt is very expensive to service or repair.

Also, probably wont worry you but autos dont get the lim slip diff that the manuals get if you ever consider motor sport / performance driving.

No doubt fuel economy would be improved on the 250gt and 350gt and you really are best advised to run premium unleaded (98 ron) in these motors. Well the 350 gt at least.

yep - if you want a bit more power and not too concern on achieving 7-8ltr / 100km in traffic jams, go for 350gt.

some 250gt can return very good fuel economy, and even though they made less power they're not too bad compared to other cars within the same engine size range...

7-8 l/100 kms is very good for a 3.5L, city cycle.

I thought it was more like 9-10 l/100 kms highway and 10-12 l/100 kms in city traffic?

What can be expected from the 2.5L and 3.0L; highway and city cycles?

Ive had my 4dr 2004 350gt sedan for a little over 18months now and can def recommend them. Parts are pretty easy. No probs at all with filters pads rotors have replaced all these. Drive belts were a little more difficult becos needed gates racing belts not std ones but even then when I finally bit the bullet and ordered from USA no probs at all. Becos same motor trans as 350z these parts are easy. Body panels etc may be more difficult but that would be same issue whether considering 300gt or 250gt as well.

Check out insurance as they can be pricey for some younger drivers. I'm lucky being older have same cost as a commodore.

I think if after an auto I would prefer the 5spd as cvt is very expensive to service or repair.

Also, probably wont worry you but autos dont get the lim slip diff that the manuals get if you ever consider motor sport / performance driving.

No doubt fuel economy would be improved on the 250gt and 350gt and you really are best advised to run premium unleaded (98 ron) in these motors. Well the 350 gt at least.

Insurance doesn't worry me as I am approaching middle age, R1+ for life.

Why did u need the Gates belts? Just preference over factory Nissan?

Not going anywhere near a track, so dont need LSD.

Can you safely run 95 RON or 92 RON in the 3.5L? Does the ECU control the ignition?/fuel? maps with knock sensor/s for crappy fuel like some other cars?

The factory navi screen can still go wrong, as well as the i-key... you're not bullet proof, Son Gokou...

power window and door lock are also candidate to go wrong in these cars... Welcome to Nissan world

all thank's to the good ol Nissan engineering... 10-15 years since the R32/R33 era and they still can't make a reliable power window motor.

happens in local Maxima, 350Z too so it's not a problem anyone can't fix locally - so it's not the end of the world when (not if) that happens.

Never had a problem with the door locks or electric window motors in my S2 Stagea. Did Nissan change the design after C34/M34/R34?

7-8 l/100 kms is very good for a 3.5L, city cycle.

I thought it was more like 9-10 l/100 kms highway and 10-12 l/100 kms in city traffic?

What can be expected from the 2.5L and 3.0L; highway and city cycles?

I never said 7-8 l/100kms city for 3.5L

average is 12-15 l/100kms city for 3.5L from what I've seen across various 350GT so far

8-10 is achieveable freeways

7-8 l/100kms I think can be achieved by the 2.5L (two and a half litres) engine (the 250GT)

With my 250GT, i got 8.8km/l city drive!

As i drive on Punt rd every morning and stuck in the traffics for around 45mins.

I only have the car for two weeks now and i took a week off work.

So i havent fill up the car and i do 500km a week just travel to work.

  • 1 month later...

apologies for semi hijacking a thread

but is the 300gt 5 speed auto easily serviced by a nissan dealer ? i know the 350gt is essentially the same motor as a local 350z and can be serviced by those guys.

Is the 300gt reliable and economical enough for a daily driver ( replace the missus commodore , finally )

As much as i would prefer the xtra power etc on the 350gt , there are 300gt's for under 20k now which there a plenty of good examples to choose from

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I’d love to find some where that can recover the dashes to look brand new and original. Mine has a very slight bubble, nothing compared to some I’ve seen though 
    • $170K. I asked one of the guys there as a joke if that price was just for the passenger seat as it was where the price sheet was... he tried really hard to crack a smile 😄 He also mentioned that every single part of the car was inspected and either restored or replaced with a new or as new part, or made from scratch. The interior was incredible, every inch like a new car.
    • Time for a modernisation, throw out the AFM, stock O2s, ECU into the e-waste bin. Rip out the cable throttle, IACV, pedal, etc. into the scrap metal bin. DBW, e-throttle, modern ECU, CANbus wideband, and the thing will drive better than when it left the factory.
    • I agree, don't go trusting those trims. As I said, first step is to put the logger away, and do the basics in diagnosis.   I spend plenty of time with data loggers. I also spend plenty of time teaching "technicians" why they need to stop using their data loggers, and learn real diagnostics.   The amount of data logs I play with would probably blow most people away. I don't just use it to diagnose. I log raw CAN data too, as a nice chunk of my job is reverse engineering what automotive manufacturers are doing.
    • I'm aware, but unless you're actually seeing the voltage the ECU is seeing and you're able to verify the sensors are actually working I find it hard to just trust STFT/LTFT. I will say, logging the ECU comes naturally to me because it's one of the lowest effort methods of diagnosis and I do similar things in my day job all the time. Staring at 20+ charts looking for something that isn't quite right isn't for everyone. NDS1 allows you to log almost everything so that's normally what I do and then sort out the data later. 
×
×
  • Create New...