Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am thinking about importing a V35 skyline, 4 door as it needs to be practical for the family.

I can't decide on the 2.5L, 3.0L or 3.5L although I am saying toward the 3.5L (same motor as 350Z).

I think that both the 2.5L and 3.0L are direct injection and not shared by a locally delivered Nissan?

My main concern is availability of maintenance parts locally, by that I mean what I can get at my local autoshop (Repco, Autobarn, Bursons etc), i.e aftermarket parts. I know Nissan can get anything.

What is the aftermarket availability of parts for these cars for things like brake rotors, pads, oxygen sensors, oil/air/fuel filters etc?

Also I hear not so good things about the CVT 8 speed. Should I stick to the conventional 5 speed auto?

I have already read about the electrical probs these cars can have like motor actuators, sound systems etc, so can live with that if a problem...

Ideally I'm looking at a 2004+ 4 door 350GT, premium with half leather. Budget is about $20K on road.

Any comments/advice from those who have been down this path?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/311671-v35-skyline-which-model/
Share on other sites

Hi,

I just bought my 2005 V35 250GT lastweek and i'm happy for what i get.

Its does not have leather, Bose sound system and electric seats.

So its have less things to go wrong.

If you after a 350GT sedan, go for the S2 V35.

Also i have the I-key and still getting use to it.

The factory navi screen can still go wrong, as well as the i-key... you're not bullet proof, Son Gokou...

power window and door lock are also candidate to go wrong in these cars... Welcome to Nissan world

all thank's to the good ol Nissan engineering... 10-15 years since the R32/R33 era and they still can't make a reliable power window motor.

happens in local Maxima, 350Z too so it's not a problem anyone can't fix locally - so it's not the end of the world when (not if) that happens.

yep - if you want a bit more power and not too concern on achieving 7-8ltr / 100km in traffic jams, go for 350gt.

some 250gt can return very good fuel economy, and even though they made less power they're not too bad compared to other cars within the same engine size range...

Ive had my 4dr 2004 350gt sedan for a little over 18months now and can def recommend them. Parts are pretty easy. No probs at all with filters pads rotors have replaced all these. Drive belts were a little more difficult becos needed gates racing belts not std ones but even then when I finally bit the bullet and ordered from USA no probs at all. Becos same motor trans as 350z these parts are easy. Body panels etc may be more difficult but that would be same issue whether considering 300gt or 250gt as well.

Check out insurance as they can be pricey for some younger drivers. I'm lucky being older have same cost as a commodore.

I think if after an auto I would prefer the 5spd as cvt is very expensive to service or repair.

Also, probably wont worry you but autos dont get the lim slip diff that the manuals get if you ever consider motor sport / performance driving.

No doubt fuel economy would be improved on the 250gt and 350gt and you really are best advised to run premium unleaded (98 ron) in these motors. Well the 350 gt at least.

yep - if you want a bit more power and not too concern on achieving 7-8ltr / 100km in traffic jams, go for 350gt.

some 250gt can return very good fuel economy, and even though they made less power they're not too bad compared to other cars within the same engine size range...

7-8 l/100 kms is very good for a 3.5L, city cycle.

I thought it was more like 9-10 l/100 kms highway and 10-12 l/100 kms in city traffic?

What can be expected from the 2.5L and 3.0L; highway and city cycles?

Ive had my 4dr 2004 350gt sedan for a little over 18months now and can def recommend them. Parts are pretty easy. No probs at all with filters pads rotors have replaced all these. Drive belts were a little more difficult becos needed gates racing belts not std ones but even then when I finally bit the bullet and ordered from USA no probs at all. Becos same motor trans as 350z these parts are easy. Body panels etc may be more difficult but that would be same issue whether considering 300gt or 250gt as well.

Check out insurance as they can be pricey for some younger drivers. I'm lucky being older have same cost as a commodore.

I think if after an auto I would prefer the 5spd as cvt is very expensive to service or repair.

Also, probably wont worry you but autos dont get the lim slip diff that the manuals get if you ever consider motor sport / performance driving.

No doubt fuel economy would be improved on the 250gt and 350gt and you really are best advised to run premium unleaded (98 ron) in these motors. Well the 350 gt at least.

Insurance doesn't worry me as I am approaching middle age, R1+ for life.

Why did u need the Gates belts? Just preference over factory Nissan?

Not going anywhere near a track, so dont need LSD.

Can you safely run 95 RON or 92 RON in the 3.5L? Does the ECU control the ignition?/fuel? maps with knock sensor/s for crappy fuel like some other cars?

The factory navi screen can still go wrong, as well as the i-key... you're not bullet proof, Son Gokou...

power window and door lock are also candidate to go wrong in these cars... Welcome to Nissan world

all thank's to the good ol Nissan engineering... 10-15 years since the R32/R33 era and they still can't make a reliable power window motor.

happens in local Maxima, 350Z too so it's not a problem anyone can't fix locally - so it's not the end of the world when (not if) that happens.

Never had a problem with the door locks or electric window motors in my S2 Stagea. Did Nissan change the design after C34/M34/R34?

7-8 l/100 kms is very good for a 3.5L, city cycle.

I thought it was more like 9-10 l/100 kms highway and 10-12 l/100 kms in city traffic?

What can be expected from the 2.5L and 3.0L; highway and city cycles?

I never said 7-8 l/100kms city for 3.5L

average is 12-15 l/100kms city for 3.5L from what I've seen across various 350GT so far

8-10 is achieveable freeways

7-8 l/100kms I think can be achieved by the 2.5L (two and a half litres) engine (the 250GT)

With my 250GT, i got 8.8km/l city drive!

As i drive on Punt rd every morning and stuck in the traffics for around 45mins.

I only have the car for two weeks now and i took a week off work.

So i havent fill up the car and i do 500km a week just travel to work.

  • 1 month later...

apologies for semi hijacking a thread

but is the 300gt 5 speed auto easily serviced by a nissan dealer ? i know the 350gt is essentially the same motor as a local 350z and can be serviced by those guys.

Is the 300gt reliable and economical enough for a daily driver ( replace the missus commodore , finally )

As much as i would prefer the xtra power etc on the 350gt , there are 300gt's for under 20k now which there a plenty of good examples to choose from

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, this is probably where a wiring diagram and a multimeter come into play.
    • I can say to anyone thats doing this; having done a number of R clusters; just be careful if its an unknown cluster.  It takes a bit of force to pull up; but if it feels excessive then its probably stuck. I've had this and pulled the entire hair spring out; and I can tell you; its not easy getting the correct spring replacement with the correct inner diameter and winding. In my case someone had used some sort of adhesive to stick it to the spindle and it pulled the whole spindle out; which the force seperated the hairspring from the spindal and caused it to deform.  You may have to clean it (IPA); or in my case if i'd known i should have used some sort of solvent on it.  Also check out Cruizin Central on eBay. He does all sorts of dials; and you can email him with any custom designs you want. So if you want like certain logos etc...he'll send you a mock of what it will look like then you accept the order and he'll take care of the rest. Fantastic dials and he can do basically any design you want. 
    • Have you confirmed its the actual axles? Also the wheel bearings that mount on the hubs to hold the axles wear out. I replaced mine as they got play in them. It sorted my play issue. 
    • Ive converted a few clusters for the R33 with 320km/h dials. On the back there are some pads which can be bridged or unbridged (using solder or wick braid) to calibrate it. There is one bridge which is for MPH <> KPH; and there are combinations of bridges to offset it. There is probably a diagram  For example; this is my conversion for a 180km/h dial to a 320km/h dial (I put custom GT-R dials on it with the GTS25t layout) If you have J2 soldered (assuming the S clusters have a similar config to the R clusters); you may need to remove that solder
    • Back on topic 😉, these are some of the notable pages from the booklets that are supplied with each weekly parts update. I never knew the BNR32 test mule car had an S13 Silvia front end... *Edit: On closer inspection the test car still had the R32 body, but only the front end had Silvia panels etc.
×
×
  • Create New...