Headstuds

[muchogarcia34]

Hey guys,

Wondering if anyone can help me out, I'm building my engine and will be running around 280-300rwkw. I've seen people changing their head bolts to ARP studs, does anyone know where in Perth you can get these kits? Also is it really neccisary to change over to studs? If anyone can help it would be appreciative.

Cheers

[snozzle]

arp head studs will give you greater clamping force of the head onto the block, decreasing the chance to blow a headgasket at high boost if installed correctly

you can get them for pretty cheap on ebay

what head gasket will you be running ? if your running a metal, you should definitely get them, if your running an oem hg, which i doubt, then dont bother with arp head studs

you should also consider an arp main stud kit for the bottom end, the oem ones stretch and arent a good idea to be re-used, especially for high power applications

[muchogarcia34]

I'll be using a greddy 1.2mm metal gasket, so by the sounds of what you just said I should get the kit. How much work is involved in the main stud kit? Because this engine is not forged, but I am working on another that will replace it that's going to be forged, so I don't want to pull the bottem end on this one apart yet.

[R32 Driver]

Stock engine could run 300rwkw

you can get them from

http://www.chrismillsperformance.com/index...age=shop.browse

[muchogarcia34]

Stock engine could run 300rwkw

you can get them from

http://www.chrismillsperformance.com/index...age=shop.browse

Got the head studs this morning from these guys. Thanks for the help guys.

[snozzle]

they r very straight forward to install, before you install the gasket onto the block, trial fit all the studs into the block and make sure they bottom out at the same height and make sure the threads are clean, once your happy with that, install gasket and the head, lube up the studs but make sure there is no lube on the bottom of the stud or else it will stop it from bottoming out inside the block, only hand tighten down the studs as per the spec sheet, they will fully seat once you torque it, dont forget to lube both sides of the washers too

i installed some into an sr last week, says 70 ft pounds in instructions so i did 35 first, then went to 70.. backed off 45 degrees on all of them after an hour then torqued them all to 75 simply because i think the metal head gaskets should be torqued down a tad more than oem gaskets

each to their own though

[muchogarcia34]

they r very straight forward to install, before you install the gasket onto the block, trial fit all the studs into the block and make sure they bottom out at the same height and make sure the threads are clean, once your happy with that, install gasket and the head, lube up the studs but make sure there is no lube on the bottom of the stud or else it will stop it from bottoming out inside the block, only hand tighten down the studs as per the spec sheet, they will fully seat once you torque it, dont forget to lube both sides of the washers too

i installed some into an sr last week, says 70 ft pounds in instructions so i did 35 first, then went to 70.. backed off 45 degrees on all of them after an hour then torqued them all to 75 simply because i think the metal head gaskets should be torqued down a tad more than oem gaskets

each to their own though

Sweet, thanks for that info mate, we're going to be re-assembling the head tomorrow so I'll let you guys know how it goes!

Cheers

[snozzle]

also, i noticed u sold ur stock cams, wat cams are going into it?

[muchogarcia34]

Putting in some Tomei 260 degree Poncams, I've been told that they're not going to make a difference and are a waste of money..... But I want to give evrything a try and figure some stuff out myself. The only bits I've got left to get is the turbo and ECU, I want to run a ViPEC and a Garrett 3076.

[snozzle]

lol.. ive installed them into a friends r34 and it makes a lot of difference, quite a limpy idle too beleive it or not, who told u they wouldnt?

make sure you shim the valve clearances correctly to 0.45mm thou as per tomei's instructions

[muchogarcia34]

lol.. ive installed them into a friends r34 and it makes a lot of difference, quite a limpy idle too beleive it or not, who told u they wouldnt?

make sure you shim the valve clearances correctly to 0.45mm thou as per tomei's instructions

Well just people on the forced induction section thats all....... I didn't know they needed shimming, I was under the impression that they were straight drop in items. What do I need to shim them? Or is one of those things a workshop needs to do?

[snozzle]

they are often termed "drop in" as they can be used with the stock valve springs however since the r34 neo head runs solid lifters, the valve clearance is essential

stock valve clearance on r34 neo head is 0.20mm, in the tomei spec sheet, the type b 260 degree 9.15mm lift cams have to be run with a 0.45 clearance

wen u install the poncams the clearance wont b far off 0.20mm

gtr heads from factory run 0.38mm clearance on exhaust side and 0.45mm on intake side, thus they r literally drop in for gtr engines, but not for gtt motors for the above reason

the shims are what u must change in order to change the valve clearance to what tomei want, precision shims australia can supply you with different thickness shims

this is also why gtr heads are alot more noisy than the gt-t heads, larger clearance = more noise, which is wat u will get wen the shim the poncams to 0.45 lol, why to 0.45? i have no idea, thats wat tomei say so thats wat we have done and we have had no problems, just insane mid range and a very tuff, gtr like exhaust note haha

where is the car/head located? if your having trouble i may be able to help you out with it if your not too far from my workshop

edit:

heres a link to the specs if u have lost them

http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogu...2_cam_RB25.html

interestingly enough, the rb25 neo exhaust poncam is exact same part number as rb26 one so that also says sumthing but the intake cam is slightly different due to the vtc gear

Edited March 14, 2010 by snozzle

[muchogarcia34]

Awesome, thanks for the information dude. I'll check out precision shims and get onto it!! I'm in Ellenbrook so I don't know if your close, but I'll give it all a try and if I get stuck I might be knocking on your door

Thanks a lot for the help

[KEN-R34]

lol.. ive installed them into a friends r34 and it makes a lot of difference, quite a limpy idle too beleive it or not, who told u they wouldnt?

make sure you shim the valve clearances correctly to 0.45mm thou as per tomei's instructions

Awesome, thanks for the information dude. I'll check out precision shims and get onto it!! I'm in Ellenbrook so I don't know if your close, but I'll give it all a try and if I get stuck I might be knocking on your door

Thanks a lot for the help

I am that "friend" Mr. Snozzle is talking about haha

Seriously he done a great job with the cams and shims.

The car has not missed a heart beat since all the mods he has done to my car.

My idle is pretty lumpy and the car sounds much tougher of boost and on boost with the cams.

Tomei pon cams and solid lifters are sex, good choice

Edited March 15, 2010 by KEN-R34

[muchogarcia34]

I am that "friend" Mr. Snozzle is talking about haha

Seriously he done a great job with the cams and shims.

The car has not missed a heart beat since all the mods he has done to my car.

My idle is pretty lumpy and the car sounds much tougher of boost and on boost with the cams.

Tomei pon cams and solid lifters are sex, good choice

Sweet, hope I get mine working soon

I contacted precision shims via e-mail and the dude called me while I was at work asking for some measurements of some stuff but I couldn't write anything down because I was in a mad rush working. Going to have to have the engine with me and call him and measure what he wants measured.

I got the head studs installed and head on. I want to torque it all down but I don't know if I'll need to take the head back off to do cams? I wouldn't think so but can someone confirm for me.

Cheers

[KEN-R34]

Sweet, hope I get mine working soon

I contacted precision shims via e-mail and the dude called me while I was at work asking for some measurements of some stuff but I couldn't write anything down because I was in a mad rush working. Going to have to have the engine with me and call him and measure what he wants measured.

I got the head studs installed and head on. I want to torque it all down but I don't know if I'll need to take the head back off to do cams? I wouldn't think so but can someone confirm for me.

Cheers

To change the cam shafts and shims you need to remove the rocker cover.

Once your there and pulled out the camshafts the shims sit on top of the buckets.

Have fun removing each one and measuring the clearances!

Time consuming that's for sure.

[snozzle]

you dont NEED the head to be off the car but it would b easier than putting the timing belt on every time u want to test the clearance of every valve with a feeler gauge

Edited March 17, 2010 by snozzle