Jump to content
SAU Community

Clock And Odo Resets At Every Start

Jai_R34GT

By Jai_R34GT,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

Jai_R34GT Contributor

Jai_R34GT

Posted
Posted

hey guys

i'm searched many forums but couldnt find a solution to my problem..lemme start with the whole story..I drive an R34 GTT..

my boost guage metre's supply and ground wire went loose and touched each other and caused a spark which lead to my dash board light and tail light fuse gone. since it happened on a night and i didnt wanna be driving without taillights i replaced the spoilt fuse with my horn fuse..since then my battery started overcharging to more than 15v..noticed it 2 days later..after checkin the forums found out that if u remove the horn fuse for some reason the alternator wil overcharge the battery..so i got a new fuse for the horn and the overcharging stopped..alternator chargin the battery at 14 something now..

but since then my clock always reset to 1am and trip meter resets to 0 everytime i start the car..

central locking doesnt work anymore, cabin lights and ignition key lights doesnt come on when i open the car,

warning lbeep when i leave the lights on or the keys on ignition doesnt work anymore,

the lights of my boost meter doesnt work anymore but boost is readin correctly

and lastly my front defogger keep blinking for 15 seconds and makes some wierd noices until it goes off...

i've checked all fuses from the engine bay and the drivers side...is there another fuse box hidden anywhere/??? what do u think may have caused all this problems/?? do u guys think wires from the battery got melted coz of the overcharging?? or the alternator or battery itself has to checked or replaced or whatever??? car starts normally so battery seems alright..pls guys any help would be appreciated..

cheers

Jai

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/311791-clock-and-odo-resets-at-every-start/
Share on other sites
tridentt150v Grand Master

tridentt150v

Posted
Posted

Try disconnecting the battery, turn the ignition on and use your brake or headlights, then reconnect the battery and see what happens??

Sounds like you should have an error code, but a battery reset will likely work OK.

Jai_R34GT Contributor

Jai_R34GT

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Try disconnecting the battery, turn the ignition on and use your brake or headlights, then reconnect the battery and see what happens??

Sounds like you should have an error code, but a battery reset will likely work OK.

done exactly as u said..still got trouble..any other suggestions..? about the error codes do i have to take it to a mechanic for diagnostics???

Jai_R34GT Contributor

Jai_R34GT

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Probably best to take it to a nissan mechanic, one of the Skyline ones preferably, but others on SAU may be able to help if you want to wait?

does anyone of mechanics in south east melbourne specialised in skylines????

iseekool Veteran

iseekool

Posted
Posted

I'm not sure if this will work....

Ensure all the fuses are at the correct ratings... you may have to check each fuse one at a time.

Not sure if Nissan's use a "body control module" (like the Holden Commodore's), which control door locks etc... - It could possibly be fried from the over charging....

There could be another short in the system somewhere - Probably best bring it to an auto elec first rather than a mech, as this issue seems electrical.

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

So, the clock resets to 1 when you switch the engine off (key at ACC)? Or the clock / trip resets after you start the engine?

I would suggest that the clock and trip meter have lost the battery backup power - perhaps an in-line fuse has blown.

Jai_R34GT Contributor

Jai_R34GT

Posted
  • Author
Posted

hey checked all fuses earlier..its all at the correct ratings...btw what's the body control module? and hey my clock/ trip resets after i start the engine and not when i switch off the engine with the key at ACC... even i reckon that the battery backup power has been lost...but where is it if its just a fuse???

  • 10 months later...
  • 9 months later...
iwanta34gtr Grand Master

iwanta34gtr

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hi every1,

I had this issue today. Thought i'd post the fix as a reference as this thread is the first thing that came up in google when i searched.

Issue can be fixed by changing the 10A bat fuse in the drivers side interior fuse box. If u have this issue chances are its either blown or maybe even missing (as it was in my case).

Diagram of the fuse box (with english translation sticker beside it) is attached.

Hopefully this will help some1 one day.

Thanx.

post-86021-0-89530900-1320748987_thumb.jpg

Edited by iwanta34gtr
  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R34 gtt rb25det neo timing belt kit

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Just don't use ChatGPT or any other artificial stupidity for the equivalent of googling. Their demonstrated inability to discriminate reality from hallucination should be enough to make them totally untrusted. LLMs don't know anything and cannot think to even the smallest extent. They are just predictors of the next word, and that should never be confused with capability.
    • GTSBoy
      Another little story of weird shit happening

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I think, given the usage model described in the OP, I'd never ever experience the wonders of the 400kW upgrade. What I really need is boost from 2000rpm and probably no more than 260-270rwkW. But I suspect that the highflow is not actually the turbo for that purpose, so I may in fact need to get a G25 or 30 or something right sized and very spooly. We shall see after it is tuned. I've had to back the boost and boost ramp off to stop the thing from pinging since the highflow went on, so I've been almost living the NA life for 9 months now! Injectors are recently in hand. AFM is in hand. Dyno is fixed. Just need to clear a queue of f**king Supras out of the way (and probably fit my new gearbox). So....some time this year? Lol.
    • GTSBoy
      braided lines for the turbos

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      For what I gather is a Sunday/summer car....braided is fine. You're not going to be left without a vehicle and you have plenty of time for inspection/maintenance. Oof. I wouldn't use them that way. They can probably handle the temperature** but the internal corrugations means that their flow characteristics are a bit shit. Lots of extra friction and pressure loss. Makes them flow like the next pipe size down. ** They are stainless, and the stainless can usually be at least something like 304L, which is pretty good at higher temperatures (unlike 316L, which I would use for a wrt/corrosive environment, but not a particularly hot environment). But the welding needs to be top notch. And even then, because you usually need at least one cone-seat end on them (because you can twist the hose and do up both ends at the same time unless one of them is a union) they can be prone to coming loose with heat cycles.
    • sunsetR33
      braided lines for the turbos

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      I don't have the OEM oil feed lines though and the turbo-wraparound line is torn, only has water. My plan is to get replacements for these and just connect a braided line to there. And make sure it's leak free. Hoses like these are also sometimes used to connect external wastegates, so for an EGR I think you're good using them.
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Alright I understand. The most likely case is probably gonna be that I just keep the OEM unit in the car as long as it works.
×
×
  • Create New...