Car Was Running Now Isn't!

[Daboss]

Hey there forum need expert advice and diagnosis. Took my car out for a drive today after after a major rebuild. While on my drive car hesitated when I gave it a little gas, so I backed up off the throttle let it catch itself and proceeded to give it gas again. There was another hesitation followed by a backfire, car cut off after that and would not restart. Checked all electronics and everything is getting power and receiving signal. Fuel is being delivered, injectors are firing, coilpacks also and cas is fine all have been checked. Only thing I can come up with is that timing is somehow off, car was started and ran perfectly, I took the timing belt cover off to see how the marks line up and this is what I saw. The exhaust cam lines up but the intake side is off by what looks like 1.5-2 teeth. The intake dot is below the mark on the back of the timing plate. The timing marks on the crank at that point are in between the 10 and 15 mark. Car will not roll over now when it has already been started and running. So what do you guys think it can be?

[The Dan]

It probably won't have a timing issue. It should still start with 2 teeth out.

Look for a blown intercooler pipe or disconnect the AFM and see if it starts.

[Daboss]

It probably won't have a timing issue. It should still start with 2 teeth out.

Look for a blown intercooler pipe or disconnect the AFM and see if it starts.

Checked intercooler piping all fine, have yet to unplug afm and see what that does. Will do tomorrow and post results.

[mosquitocoils]

There was another hesitation followed by a backfire, car cut off after that and would not restart.

Does it try and start but just have really muddy idle around 400-500rpm, where it sounds like it's struggling, and then just shuts off after a few seconds? I blew intercooler piping on the highway, and that's what mine did until I could find the problem. I know you've said you already checked but it could be worth another check if that's the same problem you're having.

And if that's NOT what's happening, can you describe what happens when you try and start her up?

[DVS JEZ]

check the timing on Top Dead Centre only, the cam marks have to line up or you need to re do it before anything else. check the belt tension too, if the tensioner is a bit loose its possible the belt has slipped and hopefully you have done any damage.

[Daboss]

Does it try and start but just have really muddy idle around 400-500rpm, where it sounds like it's struggling, and then just shuts off after a few seconds? I blew intercooler piping on the highway, and that's what mine did until I could find the problem. I know you've said you already checked but it could be worth another check if that's the same problem you're having.

And if that's NOT what's happening, can you describe what happens when you try and start her up?

When I try to start it up it just cranks over and over and over sometimes might get a little pop/backfire, but recently after trying to start I have not noticed it. Have two quick questions, I have the cas with the mitsubishi sign in the middle the plastic one and I wanted to know if when all bolted up if the plastic part in the middle supposed to spin and also when you have it disconnected with the car to on and you spin it is it supposed to fire the coils and injectors just by spining or are you suppose to apply pressure with the spin? Lastly lets say the cas managed to move and messed with the timing of the car or somehow its slipping inside the device isn't that just what the ecu uses and you should be able to get it back on point by turning the cas, or does it stuff up even base timing and you have to reset the whole thing?

[The Dan]

When I try to start it up it just cranks over and over and over sometimes might get a little pop/backfire, but recently after trying to start I have not noticed it. Have two quick questions, I have the cas with the mitsubishi sign in the middle the plastic one and I wanted to know if when all bolted up if the plastic part in the middle supposed to spin and also when you have it disconnected with the car to on and you spin it is it supposed to fire the coils and injectors just by spining or are you suppose to apply pressure with the spin? Lastly lets say the cas managed to move and messed with the timing of the car or somehow its slipping inside the device isn't that just what the ecu uses and you should be able to get it back on point by turning the cas, or does it stuff up even base timing and you have to reset the whole thing?

If you have broken the locating D drive off the camshaft or the inside of the CAS, it can go in about 6 positions but the car will only start on 1.

Yes, with the ign on, the injectors and coils will fire when you turn the CAS manually. If they do not, then you have a CAS problem. The rubber piece in the middle isn't supposed to turn but I have seen them do so and not cause issues. It is just a seal and has nothing to do with the operation of the unit.

If the belt is out of alignment, you need to fix that before worrying about why the car won't start.

If you have put aftermarket gears on when you did the timing belt, some of the cheaper ones come with two marks. You need to make sure you have the correct marks lined up. I assume because of your original post, though, that you had the car running after the timing belt was already in place anyway.

Is the timing belt still in place? Do a compression test

[Daboss]

If you have broken the locating D drive off the camshaft or the inside of the CAS, it can go in about 6 positions but the car will only start on 1.

Yes, with the ign on, the injectors and coils will fire when you turn the CAS manually. If they do not, then you have a CAS problem. The rubber piece in the middle isn't supposed to turn but I have seen them do so and not cause issues. It is just a seal and has nothing to do with the operation of the unit.

If the belt is out of alignment, you need to fix that before worrying about why the car won't start.

If you have put aftermarket gears on when you did the timing belt, some of the cheaper ones come with two marks. You need to make sure you have the correct marks lined up. I assume because of your original post, though, that you had the car running after the timing belt was already in place anyway.

Is the timing belt still in place? Do a compression test

Ok put on another cas and got the car started. Issue now is with cas fully advance base timing reads 15 degrees. This was done after car warm and with tps unplugged, car also idles at 1000 rpm no matter how much adjustments is done to the throttle body or the acc screw. Have a q45 throttle body with aftermarket plenum, and using a pfc computer. Any suggestions?