Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have done some research but can't find much on what i'm after.

I am looking to upgrade the suspension in my 1989 Nissan R32 Skyline GTR for weekend use and track work. I currently have a set of Tein HAs (9kg front and 8kg rear spring rates i'm pretty sure) and am looking at buying a set of cusco swaybars unless someone says otherwise....

Basically i'm looking at doing all of the suspension as required all in one shot. My question is what do i need to buy (reccomended brands would be good) for my GTR to handle very well on the track and remain fairly comfortable on the street when i take it out. I would like to knock the suspension side of things all in one shot and not have to look back on it but i'm unsure on what i need.

Do i need to replace the suspension bushes too due to age or for better handling?

Thanks

Expect to have to go through and replace a number of bushes, Whiteline are good for bushes and adjustable swaybars.

As for shocks and springs, its really a matter of budget. In my eyes you can do a lot worse then a set of Tein Monoflex or Super Streets or a set of Bilsteins from Heasemans or another Bilstein distributor.

In all honesty, including labour, Cusco castor rods, shocks etc you will be looking at just under $5,000 :thumbsup:

Just put some bilsteins on my 34GT-T with some king springs and its fantastic for both comfort and handling. Both improved after taking out high spring rate coilovers. Its faster and more comfortable in every situation.

Maybe try some suspension bracing. Alot of people don't try this but i have heard some good things about it. Won't affect ride but when you push the car in corners, etc will be way more stable and easier to handle from what i gather. Looking at trying soon myself :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've sent JaseR33 a private message in the hope he gets an email and contacts you
    • I have seen a case where the starter motor shorting against the casing caused a massive voltage drop + so much EMI that it caused all the sensors to spew garbage data at the ECU. Test the battery to make sure it has acceptable CCA/capacity first, I have gotten "brand new" batteries before that couldn't even power a 10W light bulb without dying probably because it sat in a warehouse too long without being charged. Only easy way to diagnose this 100% is put an oscilloscope on the battery and also look at key sensors to see if there's any clues.
    • There's a bunch of smaller shops that don't quite attract Singer money but are still hiring from that same pool of labor. Those are the body shops that you go to when you can't afford a Singer, but your old Porsche needs some serious bodywork. You can't exactly take those cars to the usual insurance body shops. When I say restomod, I mean they'll do something other than 100% OEM/OEM-equivalent aftermarket parts R&R. In the Porsche world this would be stuff like taking a 50k 964, doing a bunch of deferred maintenance/unwinding the nightmares the previous owners did to the car because a lot of people that own these cars tended to be penny wise, pound foolish types, then maybe some relatively simple off the shelf modifications to things like suspension, transmission, engine, headlights, etc. and you've spent 130k USD. When even the worst houses in the poor neighborhoods are worth 1M USD and the nice houses in wealthy neighborhoods are worth 3-10M USD suddenly 130k spent on a 50k car seems cheap.
    • Hoping to get a few ideas to help troubleshoot this issue, I'll try to keep it short.  A mate popped the motor in his 2018 LDV T60 with the 2.8 turbo diesel motor. He swapped it and I was his phone a friend when he got stuck.  The new motor is in, however it won't fire. The battery is literally brand new, when you crank it the volts very quickly (say 2 seconds of cranking) drop to 8 volts and the engine stops turning over. Watching the belts, I'd say they move about 5cm before coming to a stop. We put a booster pack on, no change.  The only potential issue I'm aware of is, when we pulled the motor the grounding strap was still attached. The strap copped a thrashing before we realised what was going on. It looks okay-ish but it's going to be replaced to rule it out.  The main challenge is, I wasn't there for 90% of the work. This is his first time doing any major work on a car and he was learning as he was going. He thinks everything has been put back together properly, however I'm not entirely confident that this is the case.  It would be good to get some ideas about what else to check. The car isn't spitting any codes so that doesn't help.  I've attached a photo, because why not lol.   
    • I mean an N1 came with a minimal paint thickness compared to dealer models. It’s probably had a ton of vinyls and stuff possible a race paintjob or two over the years. you don’t buy an N1 for its stunning good looks or comfort 🤣 you buy it to send it and measure how much air you can get on the hill at Bathurst
×
×
  • Create New...