Jump to content
SAU Community

Quick newbie question...

tomaddo

By tomaddo,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

tomaddo Newbie

tomaddo

Posted
Posted

Hi guys. Been scanning through old posts but cant seem to find the questions im after.

Im trying to choose between an r32 gtst and an r32 gts4. Obviously the 4wd of the gts4 will be an advantage on the strip etc but does the extra weight make a big difference?

Can anyone tell me the stock 0-100 times of these 2 cars?

Is it possible to get the gts4 into a WRX beater pretty easily? Id be after a 0-100 time of around 5 seconds and 1/4 time of 13s. How hard is this to get?

Are the gearboxs on the 4s the same as the gtrs and if not how strong are they?

Any answers appreciated.

Tom

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/31209-quick-newbie-question/
Share on other sites
druzilla32 Mentor

druzilla32

Posted
Posted
Anyone?

both cars in stock form - the gtst is faster as it is i think 100kg lighter.

BUT that is if they are both stock.

I can keep up with a 12sec rex up to about 85kmph, after that its gone tho.

im preety sure the gtr box is a bit stronger???

but the gts4 box is still a strong one.

gts4 is quite amazing from the lights.. i usually take off at 6500rpm and ride the clutch a little... it chirps a bit but that is all.

JimX Grand Master

JimX

Posted
Posted

The GTS-4 has the same box as a GTR. A popular mod is to do an RB26DETT conversion, with which you will end up with pretty much a GTR but with skinny guards (think sleeper). It's pretty costly though, so if money is a concern an RB25DET conversion might be better.

Warpspeed Experienced

Warpspeed

Posted
Posted

The GTST or GTS-4 is obviously heavier, but the drive-line is extremely strong. Buy a Rex and you will destroy clutches and gearboxes faster than you would ever believe possible, if you drive it hard. The Skylines are indestructible, and take some serious mods without becoming unreliable.

The GTS-4 gearbox used with the RB20 has different ratios, but is otherwise identical to a GTR box, and is just as strong. Same with the diffs.

Nexus9 Grand Master

Nexus9

Posted
Posted
i had a rolling start drag with a new STI the other day in my R33 and i was pulling away from it, WRX's arnt that quick after they launch imho

Depends what's been done to them (like any car i guess)

But it is my 2nd fav car to chop, after the commonwhore that is of course :headshot:

rev-tech Newbie

rev-tech

Posted
Posted

sorry to hi-jack the thread a little, but i'm in the process of bringing an R32 GTS4 over from japan (read getting the money together :Oops: )

but will be performing the RB25DET swap over on it (along with a decent level of modifications), anyway, my question is will the RB20DET g'box bolt up to the RB25DET block easily or is there some work that needs to be done?

thanks

Shane

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted

Hi Shane, the issue here is the 4wd sump is different (wider) to carry the front diff and drive shafts. The 4wd block is therefore a different casting to allow the sump to bolt up. Basically you can't use a 2wd block and expect the 4wd sump to bolts up. There are 4wd blocks in RB20, RB25 and RB26 and 2wd blocks in RB20, RB25 and RB30.

So if you want to put an RB25 into a GTS4 then you have to use a 4wd RB25DET out of a Stagea. Not that common. Or get an RB25DE (non turbo) 4wd block out of a R33 GTS4 and swap the internals from a 2wd RB25DET.

That's why the common upgrade for a GTS4 is an RB26DETT, it's more expensive but much simpler.

Hope that helps

rev-tech Newbie

rev-tech

Posted
Posted

Sydneykid, thanks for that info, damn i always thought the R33 GTS4 was turbo'd, oh well.

i was going to get the internals re-build anyway so the 33 block may be the way to go (balanced/shot peened crank and rods, forged pistons etc etc)

the only other option i can see is to have a custom sump made up but have it modeled off the original 4WD RB20 one. that way a few baffles could be put in, stop the oil surging at the track :(

Shane

edgasket Contributor

edgasket

Posted
Posted
Sydneykid, thanks for that info, damn i always thought the R33 GTS4 was turbo'd, oh well.

Yeah, i read somewhere ( probably a thread here :( ) that Nissan didn't make a turbo'd R33 GTS4 because they thought people might buy it instead of a GTR and they did want the cars to be that similar?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jumbotron
      Parts required for 4:11 diff gears in an R34 GTR Vspec (A-LSD)

      By Jumbotron · Posted

      Hey was wondering if you ended up installing the R33 GTR speed sensor - I found one too and wanted to confirm it's a direct swap into the R34 6 speed?
    • njdgomez23
      How to fix centre console latch.

      By njdgomez23 · Posted

      After 23 years of owning a Skyline, finally had the latch go.  Followed this guide,  works like a dream again. Great Guide 👍
    • marni
      I need more than help to finish my R33

      By marni · Posted

      Hi all,   I’ve got the biggest lot of problems with my R33 GTS-T   It was a freshly rebuilt 25th anniversary RB25DET (plastic cas, neo cams) probably 6 years ago now   The engine was running so well but I fkd up badly and trusted someone I’d known for 10 years that was well known around Plazmaman for his welding and fab work. I added a lovely photo of some of his previous work. Not sure why my car was worked on by whoever did this shit     I’m normally someone who would never open myself up to something like this, I still can’t believe I did it. Trusting him literally fkd it all up for me. Everything has been a struggle, like it’s almost been 6 years that’s how much I’ve just on and off been trying to work it all out.    All I wanted was a car that danced down low, like full boost from around 3~3500rpm to redline, don’t really care what power it puts down (if it ever does) but I just wanted it to be quick to get on it.    He recommended the turbo to get, I picked Hypergear but he told me to get the front 4” with a T4 and 0.68 rear housing.    I was expecting all these beautiful welds, tidy fab work and paid for it to be ready to go to a tuner when I got it back.    I got a car back that was an absolute mess, I actually couldn’t believe it was my car anymore. I don’t think you could even call what he did welds, they’re disgusting.    So I stripped everything he touched off it and with every bolt I loosened it just got worse and worse.    I covered it and literally built and finished another car in the meantime but now it’s getting to the point where I really want my Skyline back.   Its a struggle because I paid him to do all this shit because I didn’t know how to and now I’ve had to try and figure it all out omg    Please excuse the bird shit horrible welds, I’ve got my show pony car and am so beyond dealing with this car I don’t even really care at this point.    If someone told me about what he did to my car I wouldn’t have believed them but it happened to me. It was unbelievable. He went missing, my car went missing, it came back missing parts, the straight af chassis rails bore the scars of being dragged up a trailer backwards, even the sandwich plate was bent. Everything was leaking and open to whatever fell into it, rounded off/ missing bolts, power steering oil and coolant everywhere, no gaskets, parts stolen off it, even managed to damage the sump pan.   Promised me he’d finish the car, knew what it meant to me, I paid him thousands and thousands just for him to trash it. He told me he was fully licensed and insured, come to find out he’d cancelled his ABN, so obviously no insurance. I had laid up insurance on the car and would’ve been covered but I was scared they would’ve written it off or because the business was no longer trading I’d still be liable.    He was supposed to:  New fully custom mild steam pipe exhaust manifold with turbo location moved from factory position to high forward mount. (I don’t know if it is a mild steam pipe, I’ve got a funny feeling the waste gate isn’t in a very good position and I don’t think the outlets off each cylinder are equal) 4” custom stainless steel dump with external gate (he re-plumbed it) Cut and shut OEM intake manifold with throttle reposition (I ended up doing the throttle reposition) Box in pod filter (left out) New 100cel catalytic converter (pretty sure it’s there but unsure if it’s 100cel) Front mount intercooler piping fabricated to suit (all smashed up and rusty holes where he was supposed to make it look standard where fmic piping passes through. I don’t even think my front bar is going to fit 🙄) Custom 5” intake pipe from pod to turbo (didn’t come with it so had to do something to make it work with the Z32 afm)   Engine: Full cylinder head service & machining  Brand new valves Precision upgraded spring kit Engine block honed New bearings  New piston rings  New ARP conrod bolt kit New ARP head studs Cometic head gasket VRS kit   ATR43SS2 ball bearing turbo 0.68 rear housing  Turbosmart 45mm external wastegate (got delivered to the fab bloke, I’ve got no idea what spring is in it, I’m assuming the one that came pre installed) Walbro 260 fuel pump  Nismo 740cc injectors (tested to 880) Spitfire coil packs GCG FMIC RB25DET manual 5 speed 4:11 rear diff   I’ve got an Apexi Power FC in it atm, I was hoping to just get it to operating temp to make sure everything was okay before towing to a tuner but it’s over-fuelling too much. I don’t think that’s going to happen so i think I’m going to get either a Link G4 or Haltech for it. What do you guys recommend? I can’t work out the power FC so just gonna give up on that one     It’s got an exhaust leak coming from somewhere I can’t see 🙄    The fuel pressure was steady but now it like drops from 40 to 20psi randomly (noticed this yesterday)    I’ll attach pics of the shit he put on my car and the engine bay now as it sits    I really just need some help, I need a tuner in Sydney I can trust, I’d like to be with the car while it’s being tuned if possible, I know it looks terrible but unfortunately I’ve just got to put up with it for now and fix the cosmetic stuff later   Do you guys think the manifolds are going to be okay? Or do I throw the exhaust manifold and try again?   I don’t even think these combinations are going to work tbh   I know everything I fitted was rated to be able to take at least 400kW but most rated higher    If you’ve gotten this far I really really appreciate it 🙏 I don’t mind if you trash me or the car, I made a rookie error and f**k I’ve paid for it. As you’ll see 🙄  
    • r32-25t
      Attesa pump mount options / ideas? R32 gtr style.

      By r32-25t · Posted

      From everything I’ve heard you’ll be waiting a long time for  the parts to arrive 
    • GTSBoy
      R34 Manual conversion Speedometer

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Have you looked at the workshop manual?
×
×
  • Create New...