Jump to content
SAU Community

Quick newbie question...


tomaddo
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hi guys. Been scanning through old posts but cant seem to find the questions im after.

Im trying to choose between an r32 gtst and an r32 gts4. Obviously the 4wd of the gts4 will be an advantage on the strip etc but does the extra weight make a big difference?

Can anyone tell me the stock 0-100 times of these 2 cars?

Is it possible to get the gts4 into a WRX beater pretty easily? Id be after a 0-100 time of around 5 seconds and 1/4 time of 13s. How hard is this to get?

Are the gearboxs on the 4s the same as the gtrs and if not how strong are they?

Any answers appreciated.

Tom

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Anyone?

both cars in stock form - the gtst is faster as it is i think 100kg lighter.

BUT that is if they are both stock.

I can keep up with a 12sec rex up to about 85kmph, after that its gone tho.

im preety sure the gtr box is a bit stronger???

but the gts4 box is still a strong one.

gts4 is quite amazing from the lights.. i usually take off at 6500rpm and ride the clutch a little... it chirps a bit but that is all.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The GTS-4 has the same box as a GTR. A popular mod is to do an RB26DETT conversion, with which you will end up with pretty much a GTR but with skinny guards (think sleeper). It's pretty costly though, so if money is a concern an RB25DET conversion might be better.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The GTST or GTS-4 is obviously heavier, but the drive-line is extremely strong. Buy a Rex and you will destroy clutches and gearboxes faster than you would ever believe possible, if you drive it hard. The Skylines are indestructible, and take some serious mods without becoming unreliable.

The GTS-4 gearbox used with the RB20 has different ratios, but is otherwise identical to a GTR box, and is just as strong. Same with the diffs.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i had a rolling start drag with a new STI the other day in my R33 and i was pulling away from it, WRX's arnt that quick after they launch imho

Depends what's been done to them (like any car i guess)

But it is my 2nd fav car to chop, after the commonwhore that is of course :headshot:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

sorry to hi-jack the thread a little, but i'm in the process of bringing an R32 GTS4 over from japan (read getting the money together :Oops: )

but will be performing the RB25DET swap over on it (along with a decent level of modifications), anyway, my question is will the RB20DET g'box bolt up to the RB25DET block easily or is there some work that needs to be done?

thanks

Shane

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Shane, the issue here is the 4wd sump is different (wider) to carry the front diff and drive shafts. The 4wd block is therefore a different casting to allow the sump to bolt up. Basically you can't use a 2wd block and expect the 4wd sump to bolts up. There are 4wd blocks in RB20, RB25 and RB26 and 2wd blocks in RB20, RB25 and RB30.

So if you want to put an RB25 into a GTS4 then you have to use a 4wd RB25DET out of a Stagea. Not that common. Or get an RB25DE (non turbo) 4wd block out of a R33 GTS4 and swap the internals from a 2wd RB25DET.

That's why the common upgrade for a GTS4 is an RB26DETT, it's more expensive but much simpler.

Hope that helps

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sydneykid, thanks for that info, damn i always thought the R33 GTS4 was turbo'd, oh well.

i was going to get the internals re-build anyway so the 33 block may be the way to go (balanced/shot peened crank and rods, forged pistons etc etc)

the only other option i can see is to have a custom sump made up but have it modeled off the original 4WD RB20 one. that way a few baffles could be put in, stop the oil surging at the track :(

Shane

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sydneykid, thanks for that info, damn i always thought the R33 GTS4 was turbo'd, oh well.

Yeah, i read somewhere ( probably a thread here :( ) that Nissan didn't make a turbo'd R33 GTS4 because they thought people might buy it instead of a GTR and they did want the cars to be that similar?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

gts4 is quite amazing from the lights.. i usually take off at 6500rpm and ride the clutch a little... it chirps a bit but that is all.

lol, i think what would happen if i launched at 6500. no clutch, no tyres and no money left after replacement

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi there, after a quick google search I found this topic as I am also relocating the battery to the boot of my 1998 GTT. I was just wondering how you got on with installing the re-routing and specifically the installing of the harness protectors? How do they attach? Are they just a simple "click-in" affair, or do they attach with bolts? Does the GTT have all the necessary fixing holes for them, for example, where they locate on the chassis? Any help you can provide would greatly appreciated.
    • Thanks mate, yeah I've heard that alot and i am definitely regretting using the 25 Loom now, i have gone through and traced all the plugs from the 20loom and re wired them into the 25 loom, I have currently got Crank, Fuel and accessory's working, just need to finalise the loom and run the wire for the Ignition (Spark) and it should be running, will update if i have any luck.
    • Cheers lad, when I head over there I'll give it a shot.
    • Stock less likely to carry one like that than urethane, but still can, especially if the bolts are not as tight as they should be. If it's making that much noise you should be able to use a hose as a stethoscope> stick one end in your ear, crouch down and wave it around the various possible noise makers and get someone to lift the front end at the guard lip.
    • Broken actuator rod. Could be one of a couple of them broken. Or, it's locked and the central locking actuator is broken/stuck or the actuator rods between it, the lock and the key barrel are jammed or broken similarly. You'll probably need a locksmith/mechanic who is experienced with using slim tools to reach down next to the window glass to manipulate the mechanism. That's assuming that it is not so severely jammed/broken that nothing useful will move.
×
×
  • Create New...