Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys and gals

i am going to be getting bride bucket seats for my 180 and i am planing on fitting harnesses

first will it really make any difference on what brand i get like if i bought them from repco etc

how would i mount them i was thinking of replacing the 2 bolts on the rear of the seat rails and the 2 in the back seat that hold the rear seat belts with eye bolts. will that work?

also where about can buy eye bolts from

thanks

Gordon

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/312200-4-point-harnesses/
Share on other sites

if ur car is driven oon the street make sure u get adr approved harnesses, regarding mounting, use the eye bolts, 2 on the sides and dunno how u want to mount the rear straps if ur bak seat is still in place

Edited by Harry-Hotpants

car is going to be mainly used for track but it is regoed

im taking out the back seats

am i able to replace the rear bolts of the seat rails with eye bolts? or do i have to make up new holes for them?

You must make sure the eye bolts can stick out so you can get a nut and a washer on it.

Also using the rear seat bolt mounts is a no go for cams event (angle is greater than 40 degree).

On the r33 i had to drill out one of the front seat holes (rear left) as the eye bolt was bigger than the std bolt. and then on the other side i didn't use the seat mount as the r33 has a mount of the side.

is your bride seat fixback? all harness will fit as they all will be 4inch or smaller in width

Edited by Kaido_RR

^^ +1

Also, I didnt some research last month and you can use SFI rated harnesses but they are only good for 2 years.

Summit Racing in the US sells cam-lock SFI rated harnesses for significantly cheaper than can be had locally.

Fia or cams approve hardness are not a must if your not doing full on racing. Cams doesn't allow 40 degree angles but most Japanese harness say just to bolt them into the back seat, that is fine as long as you can get a nut on the eye bolt. As in the case of an accident if the eye bolt is just screw into the thread of the back seat bolt holes it may rip out.

If you can I can throw up some pics later of how I did it in my 33 to give you an ideA

that would be great if you can. i will post up a pic for the rear of my 180 when i get the chance

Here you go; also took a photo of the belt so you can see the size and comparing it to the slots in the seat

img4607t.jpg

Left Side i use the mount for the seat belt

img4598.jpg

Right Side, Use the mount for the seat rail

img4596o.jpg

Rear Seat Mounts

img4605v.jpg

img4603e.jpg

Edited by Kaido_RR

thanks for that. that is what i was thinking of doing with the 180. so on the right side did the 33 just have a nut?? on the 180 on that side is a threaded bolt sticking out and the rest is bolts for the seat rails

better of using propper mounting plates and following the instalation instructions that come with your harness

i use a willans 4" 4 point that can be converted to a 6 point and believe it is far better than the sparco 3" 3 point i used to run

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That is correct. I'm using a modified ABS ring and a ZF speed sensor on my rear diff for speed input. I'm running a Haltech ecu. 
    • Been busy with the newborn. We originally thought we were going to go for a third, but we're good with two lol. He's starting to actually sleep now so I've had some energy to work on the car. It's been parked away in the garage since late November due to winter.  I went ahead and redid all my head oil drains. I originally had my front and rear head drain going into the same pipe but have since split them up. I also added an Ethanol content sensor to get ready to run E85 this summer. Tossed it on my return line. Sensor sits nicely under my intake manifold.    I also have a lot of parts that came in for my rear end. I'll be swapping over to a 3.3 final drive and doing the GK teck anti squat mod. While the rear subframe is off, I'll also change every bushing. We're planning on buying another house soon with the condition that I get at a minimum a 2 door garage, so I'll wait to have more room for this. Now onto the strange things that recently happened... After changing the lower rad hose (It had been sitting in my cabinet for well over a year and was the last hose I had to replace), I let the car idle in the garage to bleed my coolant. After running for a few minutes, it started missing. Got much worst within a minute or two and then stalled and would not restart. My crank sensor decided to crap itself. No damage, no explanation, just died. I went ahead and replaced it with another ZF sensor but the heavier duty stainless model with a shield. Tossed that in and started right up. Has anyone else seen this? I hate when things fail without cause. Luckily this was a blessing in disguise... This lead me to recheck my timing. It seems I may have had a beer or two the last time I had set my TDC angle as I was off exactly 5 degrees... I miscounted a line haha. I was running 5 degrees less then commanded. It's a little embarrassing but helps explain why my dyno operator seemed to think I should be making more then 478rwkws.        
    • Sharing results from recent Liberty Walk R35 GTR, since they are still considered as somesort of a V36 Skyline. We do them turbos too. This are high flowed SS-1 models with ball bearing conversion done.  Car have managed to pull 485awkws @ 20Psi so far pushing limitations of factory built engine. The build list for R35 GTR enthusiasts as follow : HyperGear high flowed stock turbos in SS1 (G25-660 specs) Custom titanium intake pipes. Vspec performance titanium front pipes. Vspec performance 4" titanium exhaust. Upgrade fuel pumps. 1200cc injectors. Ignition coilpacks Hks intake plenum. Hks intercooler piping. Greddy intercooler. Greddy bovs. Top-secret coolant reservoir. Emtron ecu. Straight E85. Built gear box.  
    • Nah no bearings, just slip fit.  Would be a reasonably challenging but not impossible job to modify it to run bearings but I'm hoping that's not necessary as I may have well built one myself if I end up spending hours modifying it!
    • Brumbys with good shells are bloody expensive, I've looked at 2 "cheaper" cars, and walked away from both,  plus after some research spare parts are fairly sparce I'm starting to think that I missed the boat on finding a clean one that is straight (ish) and without alot rust I'm starting to think about a old Hilux as panels and other parts are much more available as they sold tens of thousands of them I use to be indecisive but now I'm not sure
×
×
  • Create New...