Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, im only new to SAUSA, sorry in advance if thread is in the wrong topic mods please move :yes:

well ive just bought a 33 from nsw and had it transported over, the seller decided not to put the rego details and plates with the car although the rego etc was included, due to "the plates and rego is not valid in SA". So I get the car that is ment to be standard but when arrived it is highly modded, this leaving me clueless, sorry for my lack of knowledge but what is the best thing to do, get the plates back and rego details? when this happens will it be drivable and will I still need to go through with a vehicle inspection at regency and get hassled with the mods of the vehicle, i know i will need to get the papers swapped over etc. Or my next option do i start from scratch and get it regestered in SA etc and get hassled by regency :blush: ps. the car came with a nsw RWC.

Thanks in advance, and keen to catch up and meet you guys :]

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/312220-need-some-helpss/
Share on other sites

yeah you sort of want the plates otherwise you'll have to drive down on a trailer, doesn't matter where a car is registered so long as its current its valid in any state

if its even a little bit modded (i don't mean blue hoses) you'll want to return it back to factory looking for a visual inspection otherwise if the guys at the inspection yard aren't happy you will have to do a full regency inspection

its a easy seamless process doing a car from one state to another made difficult by gallah's that take there plates off :blush: get onto the old owner to get the plates and post up some clear engine photo's so we can get a visual

also 1 thought that came to mind was he sold it as a registered vehicle but its a race only one? does the VIN on the rego sticker match your cars' vin since you don't have plates to cross reference

firstly, getting him to send the plates to you will mean that you will also be able to drive the car around here. so if it is modified, you can take it around wherever you need to without having to hire a trailer or get a one day permit, everytime you need to move it.

secondly, how modified do you mean? are we talking coilovers, rims and exhaust? or are we talking RB26 with a big single? because as we all know, RWC mean nothing when they come here...

Cheers Bengi

as covered earlier that you would want those plates back matey......and also if you can post some pics up so that we know what we are talking about in regards to "highly modified".....when you are taking your car to get the plates swapped over i would suggest that you make the car look as stock as possible.....otherwise you will be sent over the pits

hey guys thanks heaps for the help so far! called the original owner and apparently hes de registered it, so ive made him go re register it and send over the plates aha, hes pretty sus to me.

when i say modded i mean large garett turbo massive front mount, dumb pipes, fuel pumps, boost controller, turbo timer, and aftermarker bov, pretty stupid when the guy says its standart etc and when it comes its like that!

Ill go out now and post up some pics for you guys to have a look, as i dont have a very big knowledge in the skyline as im just learning aha :bunny:.

thanks heaps again!

cheers Ben

Hey Ben thats some better info

Get rid of: turbo, turbo timer, bov, boost controller - return all those items to stock

Can stay: fuel pump, fmic, dump pipe's though if the garret turbo has a different dump to factory turbo you will need a factory or suitable dump

Edit - just realised if to fit the massive front mount they cut the reo that will need replacing and a smaller fmic or side mount factory cooler

thanks heaps madaz appreciate it guys for ur help!,

i heard if i get back the rego etc and plates i just need to go through for an id check and apparently they arnt harsh on mods etc if u hide them, is this trueee? :bunny:

nice buy mate.....looks rather clean not so much under the engine bay.....take the bov out and get that hole plugged up....get a metal bracket made for your pod filter.....looks like you also have a rising rate fpr....that i would be looking at taking it off for the inspection....

and at a guess, just under the front mount piping, there looks to be a bright blue boost tee? remove that as well...front mount looks like it is the proper kit for the 33. so you should be ok with that. also remove guage in shiny cup next to a pillar :banana:

if you don't have the time, stock parts or inclination to do all the work yourself, take your car to a workshop that have the experience doing this stuff, can get your car to an acceptable (compliant) standard for Regency, and take it through for the ID check.

Sinergy Motorsports inspected my WA registered car and took it through the ID check a few months ago. It was then registered in SA and issued with SA numberplates. I was then able to surrender my WA plates (to Transport SA / DTEI here) and got a refund from the WA transport authority for the balance of the WA rego and returning their plates. :banana:

Sinergy will charge you for their time, effort and parts, but it is a far smoother process than doing it yourself. I don't that having an NSW RWC makes any difference.

thanks again guys and yea that would be a bit pricy especially removing the turbo and replacing it etc, i have my mechanic coming over tomorrow and hes going to give me a hand taking parts of and making it look stock aha, hope it works! if not then i will need to do so.

I did hear sinergy is a bit pricy though, does anyone recommend anywhere else?

cheers ben

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
    • Thanks Paul I reached out to Autotainment but they no longer work on JDM cars as the guy who used to do the work moved on and is no longer doing that kind of work. I am talking with Level Up Audio though.
×
×
  • Create New...