Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

can i just ask why you would want to remove it?

I've removed all the internal deadening in my supra and replaced it with dynamat. by the time i remvoed it from the fire wall, transmission tunnel, seat wells, rear seat, pillars and boot i had a couple 9L buckets. all up it would have saved maybe less than 10kgs to the car.

If you doing it to save weight dont bother as it wont make a noticable difference. it will just allow your exhaust to resionate throught the cabin.

if you want to remove sound deadening to make weight savings get the car up on a hoist and grind off all the under car deadening. it is a terrible job and will take a long time. once you grind it down to bare metal you will need to at least paint it again to avoid rust etc.

PS are you going to shannons?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/312359-dry-ice/#findComment-5139187
Share on other sites

can i just ask why you would want to remove it?

I've removed all the internal deadening in my supra and replaced it with dynamat. by the time i remvoed it from the fire wall, transmission tunnel, seat wells, rear seat, pillars and boot i had a couple 9L buckets. all up it would have saved maybe less than 10kgs to the car.

If you doing it to save weight dont bother as it wont make a noticable difference. it will just allow your exhaust to resionate throught the cabin.

if you want to remove sound deadening to make weight savings get the car up on a hoist and grind off all the under car deadening. it is a terrible job and will take a long time. once you grind it down to bare metal you will need to at least paint it again to avoid rust etc.

PS are you going to shannons?

Well my car isn't a daily driver and basically I am trying to increase the full potential of my car without spending a ridiculous amount of cash. I tell you what, from the items I have removed now I have noticed a HUGE gain in performance with every aspect of the car so now I guess you could say that I am hooked on loosing weight!

Check out the items I have removed thus far:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Do...Tr-t310416.html

Even if it is only 'less than 10kg'... to me, that is still heeeaps! Everything makes a difference. :P

I understand where your coming from though in terms of the exhaust resonating through the cabin but put it this way, it seems my car is slowly but surely turning into a Race Car... so I have accepted the fact that the exhaust is going to possibly a pain! Thanks for your suggestion nonetheless. :D

Oh and insurance, well lets just say that theres no dramas! :D

Cheers,

Edited by xanavinismo
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/312359-dry-ice/#findComment-5139230
Share on other sites

haha i meant the car show not the company lol

Oh LOL! I see, well um I was thinking of entering my car but slim chance... will definitely check the show out though!

On the other hand, I will be entering my car in the Dyno Day with ESP in June though. :blush:

Cheers,

Edited by xanavinismo
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/312359-dry-ice/#findComment-5139637
Share on other sites

Try boc gases or somewhere similar.
BOC in fyshwick would probably be the best place to try, if they wont deal with you directly they can probably point you in the right direction.

BTW, thanks guys for the info on pointing me in the right direction to get some Dry Ice! I shall try hopefully someday soon.

Cheers,

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/312359-dry-ice/#findComment-5140504
Share on other sites

BOC in Fyshwick is the best place to go just make sure you take an esky or stirafome (don't know how to spell it) box to take it home in cos they won't give you anything to carry it in. They'll just scoop it into what ever you have....bucket, hat, pockets :-) I think the last time I got some they charged me about $30 for 4kgs which should be enough to your whole car.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/312359-dry-ice/#findComment-5141340
Share on other sites

BOC in Fyshwick is the best place to go just make sure you take an esky or stirafome (don't know how to spell it) box to take it home in cos they won't give you anything to carry it in. They'll just scoop it into what ever you have....bucket, hat, pockets :-) I think the last time I got some they charged me about $30 for 4kgs which should be enough to your whole car.

Haha good thinking with the esky etc because I was just going to rock up there with nothing! LOL! $30 for 4kgs doesn't sound to bad too, considering the weight I will hopefully lose! :D

Edited by xanavinismo
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/312359-dry-ice/#findComment-5141479
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
    • You can probably scrub the rust with a toothbrush or something. After you get the rust off flush well with water to neutralize and you will probably want to also use a fuel tank sealer to keep it from rusting again.
    • The sodium citrate solution is designed to buffer the citric acid to keep it from attacking metal quite so much, the guy that came up with that recipe did a ton of testing on how much metal loss occurs over time and it's nothing crazy unless you forget about it for months:   
×
×
  • Create New...