Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Needs some ideas about amp and subwoofer in R34 Gt-t. Wondering if something can be made up in the little step portion of the boot? If not, I need a setup that I can remove quickly when bootspace is needed.

Interested in seeing pics of the different setup people have and any advice.

Thanks in advance.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/312363-r34-subwoofer-ideas-and-pics/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...
just a quick pic of mine wb4 i had it finished. kenwood 12 inch sub. the sony amp on the left controlls the speakers and the us audio on the right is for the sub.

are you running that sub free air? no box behind it?

your fuse goes on the battery side in the engine bay not near the amp. or car fire waiting to happen

unless u have R33 then it dont matter were u put the fuse

the battery is in the boot OEM

R33 FTW :P

but yer the fuse should be on the battery side. and also be shore that the fuse made for a appropriate amps in relation to the amp. eg there is know point in using a 120A fuse when ur amp is made for 40A. not that ur amp draws a max of 40A it could draw 60A its up to u to read the owners manual and find out

In my old car I built a custom box which sat under the parcel shelf and on the fuel tank ledge, made use of the space you just have to be a bit creative with designing the box capacity with the dimension constraints.

I regret not doing it with the current car, but I only use the boot a couple of times a year, so taking the sub box out on those special occasions doesn't both me *that* much.

unless u have R33 then it dont matter were u put the fuse

the battery is in the boot OEM

R33 FTW :)

but yer the fuse should be on the battery side. and also be shore that the fuse made for a appropriate amps in relation to the amp. eg there is know point in using a 120A fuse when ur amp is made for 40A. not that ur amp draws a max of 40A it could draw 60A its up to u to read the owners manual and find out

yes but the car shown was a R34 GT... :ph34r:

the fuse at the battery is to protect the car, not the amps. when you get into a accident and the wire shorts to ground the current is huge thru a cable and will take a few seconds to start a carbbq without a fuse at the battery.

make the fuse at the battery pop before the amps fuse will, .....the ease in reseting a curcuit breaker or fuse is better in the engine bay or battery tray area is easier then a fiddly amp mounted in out of the way locations. so if they amp fuses are 60amps run a 50amp fuse or breaker up front. unless you have high current competition amps in a spl war, then run same size fuse, breaker

((((unless the amps don't have any fuses in the case,)))))(some really high power amps dont run fuses at all but they're pushing 10,000 watts or more)

not something you would find in a skyline due to space and charging requirements.

a reset breaker is a bonus, if your blowing gold plated ANL fuses over and over it can get expensive fast(the metal can sag after being heated from current and do weaken over time). two breakers in parallel can add up the current load, I run 2 x 120 amp models on mine. in that fashion. for a total of 240amp load before popping them.

and 240amps can do some serious welding in a hurry..lol blow a hole right thru steel plate

fuses and breaker

http://www.bcae1.com/fuses.htm

http://www.bcae1.com/cirbrakr.htm

but time to get back to topic

i vote MDF box carpeted and some banana clips connected to the box for easy removal. just unplug and u can remove the box when it comes to the amp u have two option with the above setup. either have is permanently mounted to the car and use a switch on remote wire to turn that amp off or mount the amp to the speaker box but then u have to disconnect the power wires, remote wire, and RCA.

if u want to have a decent amount of room with the box in frp may be ur option but making a box out of mdf is the easiest option and it makes it easier to "tune" ported, sealed what ever u want. u should also consider the sub itself and how much room it needs.

  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lucky man, who owns it in the family? Any pics? 
    • The engine stuff is Greg Autism to the Max. I contacted Tony Mamo previously from AFR who went off to make his own company to further refine AFR heads. He is a wizard in US LS world. Pretty much the best person on earth who will sell you things he's done weird wizard magic to. The cam spec is not too different. I have a 232/234 .600/603 lift, 114LSA cam currently. The new one is 227/233 .638 .634. The 1.8 ratio roller rockers will effectively push this cam into the ~.670 range. These also get Mamo'ified to be drilled out and tapped to use a 10mm bolt over an 8mm for better stability. This is what lead to the cam being specced. The plan is to run it to 6800. (6600 currently). The Johnson lifters are to maintain proper lift at heavy use which is something the LS7's supposedly fail at and lose a bit of pressure, robbing you of lift at higher RPM. Hollow stem valves for better, well everything, Valve train control. I dunno. Hollow is better. The valves are also not on a standard valve angle. Compression ratio is going from 10.6 to 11.3. The cam is smaller, but also not really... The cam was specced when I generated a chart where I counted the frames of a lap video I had and noted how much of the time in % I spent at what RPM while on track at Sandown. The current cam/heads are a bit mismatched, the standard LS1 heads are the restriction to power, which is why everyone CNC's them to get a pretty solid improvement. Most of the difference between LS1->LS2->LS3 is really just better stock heads. The current cam is falling over about 600rpm earlier than it 'should' given the rest of my current setup. CNC'ing heads closes the gap with regards to heads. Aftermarket heads eliminate the gap and go further. The MMS heads go even further than that, and the heads I have in the box could quite easily be bolted to a 7.0 427ci or 454 and not be any restriction at all. Tony Mamo previously worked with AFR, designed new heads from scratch then eventually founded his own business. There he takes the AFR items and performs further wizardry, CNC'ing them and then manually porting the result. He also ports the FAST102 composite manifold: Before and after There's also an improved racing crank scraper and windage tray. Helps to keep oil in the pan. Supposedly gains 2% power. Tony also ports Melling oil pumps, so you get more oil pressure down low at idle, and the same as what you want up top thanks to a suitable relief spring. There's also the timing chain kit with a Torrington bearing to make sure the cam doesn't have any thrust. Yes I'll post a before and after when it all eventually goes together. It'll probably make 2kw more than a setup that would be $15,000 cheaper :p
    • Because the cars wheels are on blocks, you slide under the car.   Pretty much all the bolts you touched should have been put in, but not fully torque up.   Back them off a turn or two, and then tighten them up from under the car with the wheels sitting on the blocks holding car up in the air.
    • Yes. Imagine you have the car on the ground, and you mine away all the ground under and around it, except for the area directly under each individual wheel. That's exactly how it'd look, except the ground will be what ever you make the bit under each wheel from
    • Yes, if you set the "height" right so that it's basically where it would be when sitting on the wheel. It's actually exactly how I tighten bolts that need to be done that way. However....urethane bushes do NOT need to be done that way. The bush slides on both the inner and outer. It's only rubber bushes that are bonded to the outer that need to be clamped to the crush tube in the "home" position. And my car is so full of sphericals now that I have very few that I need to do properly and I sometimes forget and have to go back and fix it afterwards!
×
×
  • Create New...