Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Honestly if he wants to do it, do it. Just make sure you do enough research and understand everything. Don't listen to people that have never had any experience with it and are just saying what they have heard from a friends, counsins brother. Nitrous is one of the most missunderstood modifications and it's mainly human choices and errors that give it such a bad name. (And Fast and Furious :( )

Alot of people who have had experience, don't fully understand nitrous either! Couple lack of knowledge/experience with rubbish nitrous products and it's usually a recipe for disaster or disapaointment...

There are a couple of guys in the UK running nitrous an NA rb25's...

2rismo is running gas on his 25/30 and previous 25.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/312376-nos-kits/page/2/#findComment-5148906
Share on other sites

Nitrous is great, and its no where near as sketchy as people think, as people above has said, just do it right. All you are doing is adding more oxygen to your engine, its similar to boosting your engine (aka adding more oxygen by means of adding more air). Otherwise if you go for a 100hp shot, without having fuel properly set up, ignition timing a appropriate level etc, its just like bolting a turbo onto your car and running 10psi, you damage your engine, due to the incredibly fast combustion, causing excessive heat and pressure.

Also, don't under estimate nos, 50hp isn't 50hp of gain, its 50hp worth of oxygen burnt at a 12:1 ratio. Due to efficiency bonuses etc, that can be up around a 50RWKW gain. If you use a tame amount, you wont have to drive your car around with retarded timing, and you wont have to go spastic on supporting mods, plus it will last twice as long. A 10LB bottle on 50hp will last about 3 minutes before its too low on pressure to be usable, but don't forget, in a drag, you are probably only flat to the floor for a few seconds (when in the power range, not shifting etc) if dragging illegally at the lights, it might only be like 3 seconds of use, down the 1/4 mile, maybe ~ 12seconds of use. That's 60 street drags, or 15 drag runs, at 50hp (estimate around 150kW at the wheel with good flowing exhaust on an RB25DE)

With nitrous, get some colder range spark plugs (maybe 7's or 8's if you have good coil packs/don't mind a miss at idle) and set your timing to factory specs. A free flowing exhaust is also a good option, and run the best fuel you can combined with the right rev restrictions etc. Any more than 50-60hp and in my opinion a good option would be some sort of piggy back computer, maybe emanage ultimate? Simply because if you want the car to be fully drivable, not all sluggy and uneconomical with the timing retarded, that way you could control the nitrous with the aftermarket management, as well as have it tuned for with the nitrous - for appropriate timing and fuel maps when in use.

I'll be heading back in the nitrous direction (for legal use...) when i get bored of my R33 RB25DE+T, and get my other skyline back on the road. I was thinking my new daily could be a BMW 540iLE (6 speed manual, 210kW 4L V8) an exhaust and 75hp shot does wonders, brings that engine up to around 300hp at the treads (225RWkW) when in the mood for a bit of a squirt (I'm generally quite sedate and like to chug along, which is why I'm not too happy with the r33 as a daily).

Edited by SKiT_R31
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/312376-nos-kits/page/2/#findComment-5149060
Share on other sites

wow thank you tahts a great write up you jus provided!!!

when you say 100shot would need mods what kind of mods is my friend looking at? you said fuel upgrades (what would they be etc) cause the kit he was looking at was a 100shot.. and the shop said his skyline would run a 75-100 shot easily..

cheers again for tha info man!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/312376-nos-kits/page/2/#findComment-5149819
Share on other sites

Definitely fuel pump, as for injectors on N/A management I'm not sure. Due to the extra efficiency from nitrous, it could push your equivalent power (if it were N/A excluding the power purely from the extra oxygen/fuel mix in the case of a wet shot) it might push your stock power past what the ECU is capable of. I'm not really too familiar with R34's but R33's are 270cc which wouldn’t be a problem, it would handle it fine. It’s just what the ECU decides to do when making the extra power, it could richen right up - could simply R&R or worse it could lean out. You said you would get it on the dyno, so you'd be able to monitor all that anyway, so i wouldn’t be too concerned.

If you wanted it on the cheap (i.e. without aftermarket management assistance), just retard the timing and fit some colder spark plugs, it will cope with it fine, it’s just the drivability without nitrous that will be effected. This might not be an issue for your mate, if so then just go for it like that, but you might be able to get some drivability back with more ignition timing by making other changes.

You could fit the engine with a cooler thermostat from an R33, and modify the coolant temp sensor in some way (maybe add a resistor, so it reads the same resistance at 76degree's as it did at ~ 82-83 or whatever neo's are stock) this would make your engine run cooler but drive the same (without cold start enrichment and bad economy). The point of this, just as the colder plugs (which you should fit as cold as practical, NGK 8's/9's) is to cool the engine & combustion chamber down as much as possible, to slow the combustion process. Much the same as retarding the timing slows the combustion process by moving ignition further from top dead centre for lower initial combustion pressures (therefore slower combustion, as it’s almost like having less compression) and of course lastly, you could just run a high octane pump fuel (do you guys have 100ron up there?) or a fuel additive such as 10-20% toluene (could get expensive if the car is driven frequently).

Some of these changes will help with power (without nitrous) as an alternative to retarded timing, but you'd definitely be better off with some form of aftermarket management or assistance - especially considering it could actually net you more power both with and without nos.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/312376-nos-kits/page/2/#findComment-5150099
Share on other sites

This thread is the perfect example of people not full understanding how to correctly set up, install and/or use nitrous oxide.

As I said before, check out:http://forum.nitrous-advice.org/

The wizard of nos forum is the best resource for nitrous info... Read as many threads as you can and buy the book, it's a good read.

PS. You won't need to change the injectors, ecu or base timing if you do it right and dont get greedy... You will need to upgrade the fuel pump as a precaution.

Nitrous/fuel injector/s placment is more important on a N/A application, as compared to a boosted application. So don't look too hard at turbo nitrous RB set ups.

Cheers

Justin

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/312376-nos-kits/page/2/#findComment-5156552
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I’m doing some side developments on SR20det S13 engines, its one my hobby cars used it to compare flow capacity of some smaller size wheels. SR20det is one of another JDM legendary engines I'm sure there are plenty of SR enthusiasts on this forum, I will share results some common turbo configurations here. a quick run down of what the car is: Wide body 180sx Type X with black top engine (blue). It has: Stock bottom end Haltech 1500 ECU 5-0 motorsports trigger kit Kelford SR20DET Beehive Spring with Titanium Retainers Kelford Cams SR20DET S13 188-B 268/272 Cams G25-660 Turbocharger in T2 .64 rear housing internally gated ARP Head studs MLS head gasket 1000CC ID injectors Walbro 450L Fuel pump Front mount cooler kit JJR’s 3 inches turbo back exhaust (its too short for the 180sx it had to be extended) Pump 98 fuel Hub Dyno tune So far made 270rwkws at 22psi full boost by 4500RPM. Engine is very knock limited hence a pretty bad looking top end. From previous experiences it seems like SR20dets are happier with bigger size turbine, some thing like a GT30 would make way better top end, but on same time response is lost. It won't be a problem with S15 VCT engines. I'll be testing alternative turbine housing, turbine wheel and possibly dump pipe options for extra flow to resolve the problem and of course E85 would resolve all the issues.            
    • Awesome writeup and details. Thanks for sharing the story so far. I can relate to parts of it with my previous car and some of the issues I had to deal with.
    • Wow the colour matched hard top completely transforms the car. Are there any nice front lip options for the car or is that off the table?
    • Generally yes but for some reason I've been ruthless this time around!  I might even need to do another tip run after the way I've finally been able to hit the delete button on shit I've stepped over, stepped around and tripped over for the past 10 years!
    • I just quote the Rolling Stones. Paint it black.
×
×
  • Create New...