Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R33 gtst S1.

My power steering has been playing up periodically.

I fitted a lockbar, but the same thing is still happening, more so now.

eg. Start it up, steering feels normal (light) for a couple of minutes, then gets heavy and stays heavy. If i turn the car off for a minute or so, and back on, it's back to normal for as long as i drive usually. Then maybe on the next start it might be heavy again, or will revert to heavy while driving.

I removed the steering postion sensor from behind the steering wheel. I thought removing it would probably make the steering heavy all the time. It seems to have made no difference.

I removed the hicas fuse from the boot. No difference.

I unplugged the hicas ecu. Steering gets heavy.

So what should i be looking at? The hicas ecu is faulty?

Considering removing the steering position sensor has made no difference, i would imagine that cant be the issue, or removing it would have caused heavy steering constanlty.

And why with the fuse removed do i still get light steering for extended periods? I thought that would kill the whole hicas deal.

Your advice / experience is appreciated.

And also, forget the hicas light. I dont care about the light being on. Just the weight of the steering. I'd gladly replace the hicas bulb with one 10 times brighter, just to have my normal steering back :blink:

Edited by Munkyb0y

so many responses. please people, contain yourselves :)

another thing that occured to me. i recall reading somewhere, when removing the hicas rack, leave what you can plugged in under there.

well when i removed it, there was only one earth strap to the rear cradle that remained. everything else was just loose ends that i cable tied away.

i didn't touch anything under the boss kit....

just hooked up the lock bar, cable tied all the new loose ends and crabwalked my ass over for an allignment....

afaik the hicas ECU is the same as the power steering, so disconnecting it will f**k your steering

try to get an ECU from a mate and try that?

How urgent is getting the HICAS computer for you?

Mine will be out in like 2 - 3 weeks

How are you taking it out? I was under the impression you can not take it out without it going into crazy "where the f**k is the HICAS computer gone, im going to take away your power steering mode you son of a bitch" mode.

This crazy mode it enters... Afaik that's the ecu causing that isn't it? Might need to recheck the wiring diagrams, but I believe it's done by ecu. As such that's already aftermarket.

And I was going to rip everything out out cables and all. I'll test it once I've moved the car. Pull hicas controller out, see if ps is alive

from what ive tried, if you remove the hicas computer, power steering goes with it. it may ultimately be up to the ecu, i dont know, but if it is, it doesnt like the hicas computer not being present. either way, the power steering goes.

it would be good to see if you work around this somehow. post up your findings when you get to it.

and wouldnt you know it? my power steering has been behaving itself over the past 2 days. so swapping anything out right now wont tell me much.

Edited by Munkyb0y

well i don't know about dramas after the hicas bar is installed. but i was having the steering dramas before i put the bar in and before i took the car to the mechanici removed the fuse to the Hicas and wouldnt you know the steering is constantly soft and responsive. I have no Hicas ecu anymore and mine hasn't played up after the bar went in either...

Another one ive heard is , you have the lock out bar in , no fuse , and u leave the ecu plugged in but u cut a wire which apprently is what goes to the steering sensor and cutting that wire will apparently eliminate the heavy steering problem. Can't confirm it though havent tryed.

hey mate,

95 r33 here

I had heavy steering issues so did HICAS lockout + alignment.

I experienced intermittent heavy steering issues so removed the fuse which fixed the problem.

Never had problems with arm-breaking steering in 12months UNLESS I take my car through the laser car wash that sprays underside of car with high pressure water jet. This obviously disturbs or shortens out a sensor in the back end of car and problem will reappear until I turn ignition off then on again.

I'd say it's something to do with plugs near the diff.

Cheers :)

Edited by dave_rb20

Does your light come on after 10 or so minutes of driving?

Mine does in my 32R and then it gets heavy steering.

Its getting the Hicas removed at Xspeed, I should get the car back tommorow. I will find out exactly what they removed and if it fixed the heavy steering issue.

what is this plug? the line under it runs to the steering rack.

post-29392-1270075850_thumb.jpg

i unplugged it to check the contacts were clean, and found it was wet in there. so i cleaned it with contact cleaner, and blew it out with a compressor.

drove the car last night and today and steering feels spot on. dont know if this might have been the cause of the intermittent problems or not.

fingers crossed. i guess i'll find out over the next week or so.

the reason i was in there was to clean this plug which runs straight to the solenoid by the looks of it. being under the oil filter, it gets covered in oil at every oil change.

post-29392-1270076021_thumb.jpg

well it was a total b1tch to unplug, really hard to reach, and requires two hands, but there's barely room for one.

cleaned it eventually, but it looked like it was pretty clean, and well sealed from the surrounding oil/grime.

my light used to come on after about 10mins of driving and stay on, steering didnt realy get heavy

now the light flashes on and off every 5 or so mins, everytime the light goes on (usualy for 2 seconds) the steering gets heavy, soon as the light goes off steering goes back to norm

hecticGTR: yeh bro let us no how u go, if it fixed the problem im locking mine out aswell

thanks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good tips, will get on those tomorrow. When doing the maintenance I did move a few of those connectors around, and things that are old tend to not like moving around. (Like me).
    • Don't try it. It will be shit. Better chance of damaging the engine than gaining any knowledge about the old one. Maybe, but unlikely, especially if the O2 sensor is working. You can use NissDataScan to look at the stock ECU.   Cleaning the AFM is seldom necessary and seldom helps. The R35 coil & loom conversion should eliminate dud coils or plugs. But as you still have misses - look to the plug where the coil loom connects to the engine loom, and the CAS plug. Need quality connections there. Also look to injector plugs. And the AFM plug while you're at it. Also look to whether your injectors are clean and flowing evenly. Get them out and onto a testbench.
    • Good to know, I feel like I am in for a rollercoaster ride that looks like a sine wave. 
    • You'll fit right in. Acceptance is the first step.
    • Hey folks. I've been lurking and browsing the forum for a while, since I got into my head that I wanted a skyline. Having purchased an overpriced completely stock GTT, (only "mods" it has is HKS pod filter and catback) now that it became legal in the US, it was all glorious and sututu noises here and there. But then I wanted to do things right and went to do basic maintenance. After all the fluids, filters done, I did the spark plugs, that's when the problems started.. First the car started spluttering at around 4.5k RPM. Which I gapped down the new plugs and that solved the sputter there, but the car now always misfires at idle with pops when lifting off and shifting 2nd to 3rd. Similar to the issues in this recent thread. I've been banging my head against the wall, reading the threads here and trying suggestions for a couple months now, so decided to start this one to explain exactly what I tried and what is going on. The symptoms of the issue: Idle and low revs misfiring intermittently. You can hear the exhaust tone change and the shakes on the shifter knob. It happens frequently, but doesn't seem to have a rhythm to it. Pops when backing off throttle. It pops and or burbles almost feels like it spits fire when it pops. (Happens mostly in 3rd gear at around 2k RPM). When under load and after 6k RPM, it also pops when shifting from 2nd to 3rd. There's a ticking noise at around 2k RPM in 2nd gear going downhill, seems unrelated though but I am out of educated and downright dumb guesses. Not noticeable lack of power when putting the car into load. The attempted diagnosis and solutions: Unplugging coils when the car is running This did nothing to change the idling and tone shift for every cylinder. Checking the exhaust headers with thermometer They all are within what I'd say it is margin of error of the laser thermometer New spark plugs Tossed two new sets, copper, iridium and using the old ones, still misfiring, even re gapped to 0.8mm, still same thing. MAF cleaned with the "specific" spray cleaner No changes in the issues what so ever. Brand new loom and r35 coil conversion (was going to add the r35 coils anyway) car runs arguably better, still misfires, but seems like does less frequently. Placebo? Code 21 now being thrown, thanks nissan gods. Removed the CAS to check the shaft for play or anything. CAS seems all fine, nothing that indicates any issue, visually speaking. Things to attempted next: Ordered a new MAF (chinesium from Amazon, to be able to return regardless of result). Fuel with proper gas, maybe it is this California water that they sell as gas that is to blame? Plugin the link ECU and check the info using the built in base map. Go back to BMW and eat my rob bearing breakfast without milky oil mixture.   Do any of you have experienced anything like this or have any suggestion?
×
×
  • Create New...