Jump to content
SAU Community

anyone know about the 1jzgte toyota?


Recommended Posts

Guest kawgomoo

sorry this is kind of off topic being a skyline place. but yall seem to know whats up.

anyhow anyone know anything about the 1jzgte? my friend has a clapped out lexus sc400 and we are looker to swap in an i6 twin turbo.... is the 1jzgte worth looking at?

what kind of power can be gotten out of it?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3126-anyone-know-about-the-1jzgte-toyota/
Share on other sites

With the usual breathing mods and boost they are meant to be good for close on 200kw at the wheels with pretty good torque characteristics.

Basically the toytoa equivelant to the RB NIssan family of engines, with some out their saying they are a better engine mechanically, but management systems are not so flexible.

Guest kawgomoo

ive noticed in the uk and aussie alike people seem to produce less power than cars in the states, is it just my imagination? or do you all have strict governing laws? perhaps you all have more places for road racing? all we really do is street/drag race. im looking for about 300kw at the wheels. though i could settle for a little less.

unless my conversion is off for kw to hp, im multiplying kw by 1.34 to arrive at my hp number. anyone know if this is right?

you'll find that most people in australia (dunno bout the UK) modify their car either moderately or over the top. Most of the time power ratings are from mods that DON'T include nitrous, coz well.. its illegal to have an NO2 system in a roadgoing car in most states.

Tuning in australia pretty much closely follows the Jap scene, where average users will mess with airflow in and out, BOV's FMIC's, SAFC's and ECU's. The more serious ones will rebore their engines, mess with camshafts, fuel rails, etc etc.

Really depends how much money you have, bearing in mind once you mod it your insurance jumps heaps, as imported cars aren't looked upon favourably by insurance companies here. Most of the guys here use their cars as daily drivers, so can't realistically make kW farting monsters (even though the car is capable of it).

I don't see many serious cars now days using NOS. Just pure, Jap style, hardcore components and engine know how. And unlike in the US, we don't have very long straight roads everywhere.

As for the Toyota motors, they are more reliable because they are a lower reving unit. Also you cannot deny it, but Toyota know how to make a reliable car. The motor is more after lower end power/torque, rather than all out power up top.

Guest kawgomoo

we dont use nos over here too much. but we tend to not tell our insurance about the mods we do, and even then it doesnt really raise the price an incredible amount. around our shop, and the people i see at the tracks and what not a built motor is standard issue, just keeping up with the jone's so to speak. most of the cars we build motors for and tune are daily drivers. we usually get 3-400whp out of the better hondas, with 250-300whp being about average for the less serious cars, usually inhibited by phony tuning gimmicks {apex afc, fmu's etc etc}

internally stock 2jzgte supras with air intake, exhaust, boost controller and downpipe are in the 380-420whp range.

the shop i work at has a c hassis dyno so i get to see w hat works and w hat doesnt without spending a dime :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No worries, everything worked out in the end. I just wanted to make the point that it doesn't matter where it comes from (I.E Australia), it can be broken or improperly built. I would still purchase from these companies in the future. B2R - Not certain how that finished, this was on a car I wired a few things and street tuned. I know the owner ended up shipping the motor back to Australia for investigation. Hopefully some of it is covered under warranty.  Turbosmart - I always pressure test everything that goes on my car. It's a habit from my career in oil and gas. I run two 40mm's and both had major leaks from the actuator to exhaust portion through the shaft. I returned both, they shipped me back two and one was leaking and the other had a 38mm top (40mm gate with 38mm actuator cap, no idea how that happens). Eventually after a lot of back and forth I found myself with two non-leaking gates. I believe this happens a lot more then people would like to believe but you would never know if you don't pressure test them prior to installation. Crank Motorsport - Issued a full refund and let me keep the seat rails. I turned them into scrap metal for other projects. GKTech - Shipped me out a replacement and asked that I modify it as per my idea and that they would do the same for a future revision. ATP - Can just needed a large shim to bolt up properly.  Haltech - They started an actual proper Beta channel for firmware's a few months back and stopped using the general public for testing. I'm now much happier.  Speedtek - f**k Speedtek. I would love to watch them burn.     
    • I've got a Turbosmart wastegate, ATP catch can, many GK Tech parts and Haltech everything. Everything's been perfect, sorry to hear your experience wasn't the same
    • The only high-power RB I've personally seen go pop after running for all of an hour on a dyno was built by B2R, while being remotely tuned by B2R. The only wastegates I've ever had leak like a sieve, return, still leak, return and get shipped back the wrong ones were from Turbosmart. The only final drive that I've ever purchased that were unusable, twice... were from Speedtek. The only seat mounts that I've ever purchased that placed the seats in the door frame were from Crank Motorsport. The only poorly designed parts that I had the manufacturer confirm should have been designed as per what I mentioned were from GKTech. The only ECU I've had firmware updates consistently break things are Haltech. The only catch can I've purchased that didn't fit in its advertised spot was from ATP. So forth and so on... Moral of the story, doesn't matter where it's from. Do your research beforehand and stick with products and companies you've trusted in the past.    @joshuaho96 If you want it done right, do it yourself.
    • Something coarse-ish. 180 is good.
    • I was surprised to see all the quick Jack models at the same prices on there. But yeah, grabbing one at 20% off would be great.
×
×
  • Create New...