Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My Bonnet wont shut damn it!!!!!! the R34 bonnet height must be slightly different to the R33 When using a stock manifold as it is hitting on the BOV flange. I redrilled the engine mounts as per the manual but it still isn't quite low enough. It just gets on the 1st click of the bonnet latch, So I will try washers on the bonnet hinge and or chop the top lip off the BOV flange and re tap a bolt in lower.

I'll let you know what I do to get around the height problem, but a Greddy plenum would have been the easiest solution while the motor is out.

Chris

My Bonnet wont shut damn it!!!!!! the R34 bonnet height must be slightly different to the R33 When using a stock manifold as it is hitting on the BOV flange. I redrilled the engine mounts as per the manual but it still isn't quite low enough. It just gets on the 1st click of the bonnet latch, So I will try washers on the bonnet hinge and or chop the top lip off the BOV flange and re tap a bolt in lower.

I'll let you know what I do to get around the height problem, but a Greddy plenum would have been the easiest solution while the motor is out.

Chris

Did you slot the engine mounts?

Are you still using T/C? if not, I can give you an RB20 crossover pipe to try, it mounts teh bov in a different orientation.

Mine only hit on the lip of the timing belt cover and forward corner of the intake manifold.

Let me know if you want me to come take a look Chris :thumbsup:

Did you slot the engine mounts?

Are you still using T/C? if not, I can give you an RB20 crossover pipe to try, it mounts teh bov in a different orientation.

Mine only hit on the lip of the timing belt cover and forward corner of the intake manifold.

Let me know if you want me to come take a look Chris :woot:

Hey Bubba, cheers for the offer I may take you up on that at a later point.

Yes I slotted and rewelded the engine mounts to the max. I'm still using the T/C throttle body but it has no butterfly fitted. It didn't end up hitting the throttle body it self but the rubber sleeve between the throttle body and the cast aluminum pipe that the BOV mounts to.

what I ended up doing is cutting a small slot out of the bonnet to clear the joiner/throttle body. Then took a ball peen hammer to the crappy Just jap IC pipe that runs accross the radiator. as it was clashing with the CAS sensor. the piping looks like crap but its good enough to get the car running on and i'll get a replacement bent up later as i have well and truly used up all the goodwill with borrowing my mothers car.

A simpler fix would have been to use a R33 throttle body and get a pipe bent up to replace the cast ally peice.

regards

chris

Hey Bubba, cheers for the offer I may take you up on that at a later point.

Yes I slotted and rewelded the engine mounts to the max. I'm still using the T/C throttle body but it has no butterfly fitted. It didn't end up hitting the throttle body it self but the rubber sleeve between the throttle body and the cast aluminum pipe that the BOV mounts to.

what I ended up doing is cutting a small slot out of the bonnet to clear the joiner/throttle body. Then took a ball peen hammer to the crappy Just jap IC pipe that runs accross the radiator. as it was clashing with the CAS sensor. the piping looks like crap but its good enough to get the car running on and i'll get a replacement bent up later as i have well and truly used up all the goodwill with borrowing my mothers car.

A simpler fix would have been to use a R33 throttle body and get a pipe bent up to replace the cast ally peice.

regards

chris

Nice work, but the most important question is, skids?:)

I have to find some time to duck up to the workshop and pull my pistons out, then I can send everything to the machinist!

Nice work, but the most important question is, skids? :)

I have to find some time to duck up to the workshop and pull my pistons out, then I can send everything to the machinist!

Not yet mate, 36k's on the clock and its painfull I just wanna give it some Revs damn it. It's booked in for a quick run in tune on tuesday then I wont have to fear about leaning it over 3-4krpm.

Josh DO IT, it has so much torque every where compared to the Rb25 with a hiflow. I mean 3rd gear 2krpm from walking pace tractored straight up a damn steep hill.

chris

Not yet mate, 36k's on the clock and its painfull I just wanna give it some Revs damn it. It's booked in for a quick run in tune on tuesday then I wont have to fear about leaning it over 3-4krpm.

Josh DO IT, it has so much torque every where compared to the Rb25 with a hiflow. I mean 3rd gear 2krpm from walking pace tractored straight up a damn steep hill.

chris

Ugh run is so painful hehe

Shoot me a PM when you're ready for skidz and I'll bring the vidcam down :D

  • 1 month later...
Hey Bubba, cheers for the offer I may take you up on that at a later point.

Yes I slotted and rewelded the engine mounts to the max. I'm still using the T/C throttle body but it has no butterfly fitted. It didn't end up hitting the throttle body it self but the rubber sleeve between the throttle body and the cast aluminum pipe that the BOV mounts to.

what I ended up doing is cutting a small slot out of the bonnet to clear the joiner/throttle body. Then took a ball peen hammer to the crappy Just jap IC pipe that runs accross the radiator. as it was clashing with the CAS sensor. the piping looks like crap but its good enough to get the car running on and i'll get a replacement bent up later as i have well and truly used up all the goodwill with borrowing my mothers car.

A simpler fix would have been to use a R33 throttle body and get a pipe bent up to replace the cast ally peice.

regards

chris

So if im using the r32 rb25de head with standard throttle body and piping It should prevent the fouling on the bonnet if i get the mounts to sit as low as possible? Im not too keen to go front facing if i don't have to.

So if im using the r32 rb25de head with standard throttle body and piping It should prevent the fouling on the bonnet if i get the mounts to sit as low as possible? Im not too keen to go front facing if i don't have to.

just remove the nice cover off the bonnet put a big dollop of grease along your throttle body to BOV. drop the bonnet down see were its got grease. pull out trusty 5" angle grinder and remove the small peice of bracing. bonnet sorted. But you still need to drop the motor to the absolute max, and for good measure i put 2 washers under the bonnet hinge and lifted the bonnet latch a few MM.

and chuck the cover back on? Im just concerned as I'm planning on getting the car all certified for the streets afterwards and don't want it to effect that. How is your conversion coming along anyway?

yeah mate, just spray some primer over the raw edges and then put the cover back on. what you can't see aint gonna hurt them mate. its not like you have removed all the bracing . just 100x100mm square.

My cars running and tuned done 2000k's, made 366hp 500nm @ 5500rpm. needs a little more boost and she will be sweet.

Nice mate!!! Is this in your r34? You got any pictures of how she's sitting in there? I can't wait to start my conversion aye, just need to get rid of my r33 first get pay off some bills before i get into it lol.

366 5000nm thats nice man bet it pulls hard. What turbo and boost are you running urtwhistle?

I'll have to take some pics, the turbo is a hypergear 3576. running 16psi. it doesn't make massive power but its mega fun to drive.

366hp still a decent amount for the street tho :happy: I bet it is a lot of fun!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
    • You talking about the ones in the photo above? I guess that could make sense. Fixed (but flexible) line from the point up above down to the hubcap thingo, with a rotating air seal thingo. Then fixed (but also still likely flexible) line from the "other side" of the transfer in the hub cap thingo up to the valve stem on the rim. A horrible cludge, but something that could be done. I'd bet on the Unimog version being fed through from the back, as part of the axle assembly, without the need for the vulnerable lines out to the sides. It's amazing what you can do when you have an idea that is not quite impossible. Nearly impossible, but not quite.
×
×
  • Create New...