Jump to content
SAU Community

Best Tyres For Sprint And Time Trials


Recommended Posts

I got my best times on the KU36 starting at 36psi cold. Didn't make note of the hot pressures. But the heavyweight Supra probably put a couple of extra pound in them through heat than your lighter R32.

Cheers guys, that will save me a bit time playing around with pressures! I'm going down in 2 weeks and i'll let u know how i go:)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

hey guys, great topic. Any cahance of listing the tyres in some sort of performance category or compound list and with the average prices.

i havent had a new set of tyres on my car yet, still using the secont hand RE55s off the v8 utes. I want to no im spending the right money when the time comes, and you guys seem to have the majority covered. I dont think i can run the bridgestones again at $440 a corner.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My opinion of relative performance and price of semi slicks:

Dunlop DZ03 (expensive)

Bridgestone Re55s (expensive, now)

Yoko A050 (expensive)

Kumho V70A (medium)

Toyo 888 (medium)

Pirelli P-Zero (v expensive)

Yoko A048R (expensive)

Just a guess on the yoko a050 I have not run them personally. they might be quicker than the re55 but its hard to tell because they are a softer compound. Also bridgestone are terrible in the wet with low tread, and the kumhos provide consistent grip well below the wear markers (ie they last a long time without dropping off). Yoko A048 are OK for first 3 laps but drop of really quickly, well before they wear out.

I don't know anything about the 2nd tier tyres (falken azenis, kumho ku36, federal 595rs etc etc) except that you will loose at least a second or 2.

ultimately if you want to win you need to buy new dz03s each time. anything else depends on how much you can compromise.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

and for social track days etc.

My opinion of relative performance and price of semi slicks:

Dunlop DZ03 (expensive)

Bridgestone Re55s (expensive, now)

Yoko A050 (expensive)

Kumho V70A (medium)

Toyo 888 (medium)

Pirelli P-Zero (v expensive)

Yoko A048R (expensive)

Just a guess on the yoko a050 I have not run them personally. they might be quicker than the re55 but its hard to tell because they are a softer compound. Also bridgestone are terrible in the wet with low tread, and the kumhos provide consistent grip well below the wear markers (ie they last a long time without dropping off). Yoko A048 are OK for first 3 laps but drop of really quickly, well before they wear out.

I don't know anything about the 2nd tier tyres (falken azenis, kumho ku36, federal 595rs etc etc) except that you will loose at least a second or 2.

ultimately if you want to win you need to buy new dz03s each time. anything else depends on how much you can compromise.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I dont want to hijack the thread but i dont think its worth starting another one for a very similiar topic.

What is the largest set of semi slicks and full slicks that can be fitted on a 32 gtr? I am looking at 295s all round, is this possible or go abit smaller like 275s? Im running 17 inch rims, havent purchased them yet but looking at 10' wide rims too, so will 295s be too wide for those? whats the ideal size for a gtr for time attack sort of stuff. Its a pretty serious engine combo etc so i want as little traction issues as possible.

Whats the best options for full slicks for this sort of stuff, and rough idea on prices?

If the mods feel this isnt on topic then delete it and ill start a seperate thread.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

stu I'd run the toyos or kumhos depending which is cheaper for bashing around the track. but sooner or later you will want to know "what is the best time this car can do", and the only way to find out is to put the best tyres on it. About 350 each instead of 500. Careful with second hand ones, they look cheap but can we well and truely rooted even if they still show tread depth (heat cycles kill them not wear)

lets say the dunlop and bridgestone are a second quicker than the next best tyres (possible at some tracks).....imagine how frustrating it is to try and make up that second through power, suspensions settings, different driving lines etc when you could just bolt the right tyres on.

Combined Touring Cars went from A048 control tyres to Kumho V70A and went a full second faster. Then control tyres were dropped, the front runners are buying new dunlops and bridgies, and going 1.5 to 2 seconds faster again. Improved Production still run A048 and despite far more mods being allowed (eg engines are free esp for non turbo cars) their quickest cars are slower than the fastest production cars.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Boy, $275 a tyre!! :cool:

Makes me glad to be driving a little buzzox shopping trolley on 15's!! The RSR 595's are $120 a corner, so at that price I might grab a set once the 048's wear out. These are meant to be 140 treadwear - correct? (not sure if I'm reading the specs correctly). These track tyres are all new to me.

Point taken about wanting to know what the car;s capable of. Before I get there, I need to first learn to drive the car properly, then get to know the track (Lakeside) then start thinking about tyres and suspension (it's currently set up for gravel, with about 4" excess ride height). Depending on how well I take to tarmac work (loved lakeside) I'll look at what my options are.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

lol.....mine are 500-550 a tyre....

Hi All

Just had a quick glance, on R32 at 300kw,Yoky A050's Softs with, front 34psi Rear 32 Hot at most events up to 5 laps or not too hot a day - on the R33, (370kws) at Oran Park with brand new DZo3's 285x30x18 SR's were a clear second slower than Yoky A050's 265x35x18 this is also case at the same test at Eastern Creek. So keeping this in mind Yoky's wear a bit quicker, produced the best time and over $1000 a set cheaper. although in longer race conditions say 10 - 20 laps, the DZo3s are nicer to drive on.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeah they have had some great results, on your cars and others in sprints, hillclimb etc.

can't work for me because we have min 3x 20min races and they will just get smashed....even gordon leven were not willing to recommend their hardest a050s for race use.

also not a great deal for most people doing longer track sessions.....but obviously a great choice if you are only doing 3 laps at a time

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i have used Khumo semi's and Bridgestone re55.

Bridgies came up to temp earlier and held consistantly lap after lap.

Used khumo's took a while to build up temp and then held really good... they seemed to be good value for money. Not real good for hillclimbs though! :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i have used Khumo semi's and Bridgestone re55.

Bridgies came up to temp earlier and held consistantly lap after lap.

Used khumo's took a while to build up temp and then held really good... they seemed to be good value for money. Not real good for hillclimbs though! :ermm:

that all depends what compound Kumhos you bought.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Kumho V70's are pretty good value for money and I think they are a very underated tyre, most people write them off as a basic motorsport tyre.

I think this is because when you look at the V70 Semi's, they don't look like your regular RE55 or A048's. The tread depth is very shallow and they don't have huge tread blocks.

However, when I gave them a go; the grip was very good, and they held up to the heat very well. I'm only doing 5 laps at a time but I have excellent grip the whole time.

I can only compare them to Advan A048's I've run previously and they were at least 2 second's a lap quicker.

I would expect more expensive tyres such as DZ03's, A050's and RE55's to be slightly better, but for the price I paid ($330e each for 245/40/17) I'm fairly impressed with them.

Hmmm... Once my Kumho's wear out, I'd really like to try the soft A050's after hearing so many good things about them.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

^^^^ That is contrary to our experience with them. we ran them for two Targa Tasmanias, once on a '02 STi and the other time on a 34 GTR, and they were a great tyre, unmatchable in the wet in my opinion.

Their outright dry performance has been surpased now though.

We also found they worked best at lower pressures, liking to start around 24 cold and setting them at 30 hot.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

^^ I was about to say the same thing. I don't think I run high pressures in the Kumho's to make them work. I've never had them over 35 psi hot and try to keep them around 32 psi hot.

Also, I had to get a price on the Advan A050's and in 245/40/17 size they are $485 each from Gordon Levin.

Edited by nismoman
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Right.  I'll try my best at a concise "bring you up to speed" on stuff that may be missing here - obviously open to questions or further input from others as relevant. Here's a datalog from a responsive turbo setup with electronic boost control being used a bit, to keep it simple I've marked 3 points of interest.  All of these charts are on the same time scale on the X-axis, so you can reference what engine rpm is doing in the top graph, boost and EMAP (exhaust backpressure) in the second graph, and turbo rpm in the bottom graph. A) The turbo gets it's power from exhaust gas, and pumping air takes work.  As a result you can't just spin a turbo with a fixed amount of exhaust energy and expect it to keep spooling - the bigger the turbo (ie, the more air it can push) the more exhaust energy you need to drive it.   The most obvious ways of getting more exhaust energy are by adding displacement, adding boost, or adding rpm - but as you add any of these the turbo also needs to do a bit more work so there is a big balance of these things needed to even get to your target boost and sometimes that's not even possible. What you can see in step "A" is that there isn't enough engine rpm or boost to reach the level we want, so this is where "lag" is.  The dyno run continues and rpm increases, which gives enough energy to increase boost, which helps spool  the turbine speed up even more - so you can see that the rate that the boost (and turbo speed) are starting to ramp up faster than the engine rpm is, so turbo is really starting to wake up as the graph gets closer to point B....   B) At this point we've been able to reach the boost that is actually desired at this point.   To stop the boost from going further than this the wastegate will open and bypass gas past the turbine, meaning it doesn't continue accelerating at the point it was before but instead carry on at a more progressive rate which matches what the engine needs.   The wastegate will have a spring in it which is rated to a specific pressure where it will start bypassing, but electronic boost control (managed by the ECU) can adjust how much pressure the spring sees in order to allow some tunability on how much boost the wastegate actually sees, and therefore how much exhaust it bypasses.   The tune in this case stops boost from ramping up HARD at around 21-22psi just before 4000rpm, then as the rpm continue it allows boost to continue up to around 25psi higher in the rpm.   You can see the turbo speed fairly steadily increases through the rpm to ensure it's keeping up with the increasing airflow demand due to the engine speed being higher and boost being pretty steady.   If the boost dropped off after a point then you may see the turbo speed level off or even drop.   C) You can see that despite the boost pressure staying pretty flat here, the exhaust pressure is steadily increasing and at this stage has overtaken boost pressure.   This isn't unusual, and is largely as a result of the increasing energy needed by the turbo to pump more and more air to suit the needs of the engine as it revs out further.   There are a bunch of variables in regards to how much back pressure there will be on a given turbo etc, but its one of the factors we manage when sizing and tuning a turbo setup.   When exhaust back pressure starts exceeding boost pressure you will eventually start seeing signs that the turbo is running out, the engine gets less keen to make more power and it gets harder to raise boost further. In this case it's a fairly acceptable compromise for the power level (around 630kw on a 3litre engine with full boost by 4000rpm), but you'd not want to push it a lot harder than this.  The maximum speed rated for the compressor wheel on this setup is around 125,000rpm so you can see its starting to get close on that side as well - I feel like this kind of illustrates some of the turbo related things we both decide on how far to push, and are also limited to how far we can push depending on the parts combination. Hope this helps more than it confuses things  
    • For that influx of Spammers we had I made no pic posting and no PM's for first ten posts. This is group based and I've manually updated @Beanie to the Members group which will open up the images and PM's. 
    • Thx for the reassuring reply. I’ve got above legal clearance  going in for roadworthy Friday… fingers crossed it’s keeping me awake  bloody nanny state 
    • I was actually going to try and dig out a datalog with turbine speed and EMAP haha
    • Wait until @Lithium posts a compressor map and tries to explain what's going on. There is a strong possibility that the OP lives in a digital world and is not comfortable with analogue machines. A turbo is just about as analogue as it gets, with plenty of non-linear behaviours added in on top. Most of us who think we know how they work are actually only getting by on 2nd and 3rd order mental models that abstract away from the actual physics and bring it back to the sort of kindergarten level concepts we can hold in our heads. This is important when you need to hold 10 such concepts in your head at the same time. You need to reduce the complexity of the individual concepts to allow them to be simultaneously held and manipulated. Too much complexity in the base models makes it very difficult to make them work with each other mentally.
×
×
  • Create New...