Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

midnight purple 1993 skyline r33 non turbo 5 speed

18inch rims with 80% tred on all wheels

pioneer headunit with clarion 6x9s and amp

gtr body kit all round

147XXXks on the clock

loud exhaust sounds good

LSD

rego till jan 2011

located an hour away from melb

inspections welcome

8500 with rwc

8000 without

ono

may consider swaps .. 200sx s14 , sprinter .

Bad points :

few cracks on body kit and marks on the car here and there

indicator fell off a few weeks ago and another one is getting posted next week

horn is not working

tear in drivers seat

other than that this car runs perfectly starts first time every time clutch is in good condition just had front bushings replaced and fan belt done aswell.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/312640-r33-non-turbo-5-speed/
Share on other sites

midnight purple 1993 skyline r33 non turbo 5 speed

18inch rims with 80% tred on all wheels

pioneer headunit with clarion 6x9s and amp

gtr body kit all round

147XXXks on the clock

loud exhaust sounds good

LSD

rego till jan 2011

located an hour away from melb

inspections welcome

8500 with rwc

8000 without

ono

may consider swaps .. 200sx s14 , sprinter .

Bad points :

few cracks on body kit and marks on the car here and there

indicator fell off a few weeks ago and another one is getting posted next week

horn is not working

tear in drivers seat

other than that this car runs perfectly starts first time every time clutch is in good condition just had front bushings replaced and fan belt done aswell.

  • 2 weeks later...
midnight purple 1993 skyline r33 non turbo 5 speed

18inch rims with 80% tred on all wheels

pioneer headunit with clarion 6x9s and amp

gtr body kit all round

147XXXks on the clock

loud exhaust sounds good

LSD

rego till jan 2011

located an hour away from melb

inspections welcome

8500 with rwc

8000 without

ono

may consider swaps .. 200sx s14 , sprinter .

Bad points :

few cracks on body kit and marks on the car here and there

tear in drivers seat

other than that this car runs perfectly starts first time every time clutch is in good condition just had front bushings replaced and fan belt done aswell.

horn is now working and got a new indicator pics will be up when i get a camera

Just a heads up to anyone looking to buy this Vehicle about 2 months ago it was on eBay ($6300 reserve) i went to Geelong to check the car out and the owner (not sure if it the same owner or not he ended the auction early I'm guessing he sold it) didn't allow me to test drive the vehicle (he did however take me for a drive) which didn't bother me at all as i had driven a few R33's and owned one, i was looking to purchase the car and i offered him a price well over his reserve the only Issue was he would not drive the car to my mechanic (who was located in Melbourne) which i found quite suss (due to me offering him a lot more than what he asked for in his reserve and he had told me he was free that whole week but he wouldn't make time to get the car checked) so i did not buy the Vehicle.

Point of the story is do not buy this car without a full mechanical report just a word of advice. The car does look nice from the outside (minus the paint chipped off the rear spoiler and the minor scratches but i would be inclined to get a mechanical check however the body seemed straight).

Not trying to ruin your sale mate but i just thought id let people know.

mate i did buy it and it was not that price , he took it to the mechanic for me and i did get it all roadworthy and everything come and take it for a drive and look over it i assure you there is nothing wrong with it , i put it as a high price because i no people will bump me down .. the lowest i would go would be 6800 because it cost me abit to get it on the road .. i have to sell it now because i have lost my licence in my mates car speeding and have no use for this i need to pay my fines and get a project car so that i can do it up because i cannot drive it. i wouldnt blame the guy not wanting to drive up to melbourne just so you can look at the car it is a long way just for a look when u can do a racv check or go to a mechanic down here

First off i don't want to go to some random mechanic and RACV don't really have a proper hoist to check the car (unless you go to there gauges which again he wasn't keen to do even though i was going to pay for the checkup).I didn't want him to drive down just so i could "have a look" it was going straight to a mechanic to get a full mechanical check which i was paying for. Getting a RWC doesn't mean the car is in good mechanical condition anyone that knows a mechanic can get a RWC that wasn't the issue. I didn't mean to come across as sounding like the cars full of problems it seemed to be in good condition when i checked it out last time but in saying that i personally would never buy a car without a mechanical check. The car however is worth what you advertised it for good luck with the sale.

well thank you but yeah it sounded like you were saying its got problems , the last seller was a dodgey prick and i know that, iv fixed everything that was wrong with it and now it is a1 condition mechanicly. i will go to any mechanic anyone wants to check anything im not trying to stooge anyone just trying to make a quick sale becuase i need the money..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's odd, it works fine here. Try loading it on a different device or browser? It's Jack Phillips JDM, a Skyline wrecker in Victoria. Not the cheapest, but I have found them helpful to find obscure parts in AU. https://jpjdm.com/shop/index.php
    • Yeah. I second all of the above. The only way to see that sort of voltage is if something is generating it as a side effect of being f**ked up. The other thing you could do would be to put a load onto that 30V terminal, something like a brakelamp globe. See if it pulls the voltage away comepletely or if some or all of it stays there while loaded. Will give you something of an idea about how much danger it could cause.
    • I would say, you've got one hell of an underlying issue there. You're saying, coils were fully unplugged, and the fuse to that circuit was unplugged, and you measured 30v? Either something is giving you some WILD EMI, and that's an induced voltage, OR something is managing to backfeed, AND that something has problems. It could be something like the ECU if it takes power from there, and also gets power from another source IF there's an internal issue in the ECU. The way to check would be pull that fuse, unplug the coils, and then probe the ECU pins. However it could be something else doing it. Additionally, if it is something wired in, and that something is pulsing, IE a PWM circuit and it's an inductive load and doesnt have proper flyback protection, that would also do it. A possibility would be if you have something like a PWM fuel pump, it might be giving flyback voltages (dangerous to stuff!). I'd put the circuit back into its "broken" state, confirm the weird voltage is back, and then one by one unplug devices until that voltage disappears. That's a quick way to find an associated device. Otherwise I'd need to look at the wiring diagrams, and then understand any electrical mods done.   But you really should not be seeing the above issue, and really, it's indicating something is failing, and possibly why the fuse blew to begin with.
    • A lot of what you said there are fair observations and part of why I made that list, to make some of these things (like no advantage between the GSeries and GSeries II at PR2.4 in a lot of cases) however I'm not fully convinced by other comments.  One thing to bare in mind is that compressor flow maps are talking about MASS flow, in terms of the compressor side you shouldn't end up running more or less airflow vs another compressor map for the same advertised flow if all external environmental conditions are equivalent if the compressor efficiency is lower as that advertised mass flow takes that into consideration.   Once the intercooler becomes involved the in-plenum air temperature shouldn't be that different, either... the main thing that is likely to affect the end power is the final exhaust manifold pressure - which *WILL* go up when you run out of compressor efficiency when you run off the map earlier on the original G-Series versus G-Series II as you need to keep the gate shut to achieve similar airflow.    Also, how do you figure response based off surge line?  I've seen people claim that as an absolute fact before but am pretty sure I've seen compressors with worse surge lines actually "stand up" faster (and ironically be more likely to surge), I'm not super convinced - it's really a thing we won't easily be able to determine until people start using them.     There are some things on the maps that actually make me wonder if there is a chance that they may respond no worse... if not BETTER?!  which brings me to your next point... Why G2 have lower max rpm?  Really good question and I've been wondering about this too.  The maximum speed *AND* the compressor maps both look like what I'd normally expect if Garrett had extended the exducers out, but they claim the same inducer and exducer size for the whole range.   If you compare the speed lines between any G and G2 version the G2 speed lines support higher flow for the same compressor speed, kinda giving a pretty clear "better at pumping more air for the same speed" impression. Presumably the exducer includes any extended tip design instead of just the backplate, but nonetheless I'd love to see good pics/measurements of the G2 compressors as everything kinda points to something different about the exducer - specifically that it must be further out from the centerline, which means a lower rpm for the same max tip speed and often also results in higher pressure ratio efficiency, narrower maps, and often actually can result in better spool vs a smaller exducer for the same inducer size... no doubt partly due to the above phenomenon of needing less turbine speed to achieve the same airflow when using a smaller trim. Not sure if this is just camera angle or what, but this kinda looks interesting on the G35 990 compressor tips: Very interested to see what happens when people start testing these, and if we start getting more details about what's different.
×
×
  • Create New...