Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Anyone know how well the vacume ones work on turbo cars where the power delivery isn't liner ??

My last car had cruise, and it killed me going to a car without it :)

Stimps - does the one you've got work on the tacho signal as well ?? I've never installed one that runs on the magnets etc....

The one i have works off the magnets on the tailshaft system, which is if anything, more accurate.

Being a turbo car or not makes no difference.

If you have a turbo auto, its even better, as when you come to a steep hill, it will simply apply more throttle, turbo spools up, auto kicks down a gear....etc..

I havent played with any of them that work off a tacho signal, but I would think that any that does, would be pretty dodgy, as the behaviour of it would change depending on which gear your in.

Cool,

Yeah, the one I had in my last car was done via the tacho and used to get confused on steep hills etc. But it was pretty old (bought it about 12 years ago).

Might put one on my wish list.

BTW: I like what you did with the uhf transmitter. Good idea to keep the dash nice and neat.

J

The one i have works off the magnets on the tailshaft system, which is if anything, more accurate.  

Being a turbo car or not makes no difference.

If you have a turbo auto, its even better, as when you come to a steep hill, it will simply apply more throttle, turbo spools up, auto kicks down a gear....etc..

I havent played with any of them that work off a tacho signal, but I would think that any that does, would be pretty dodgy, as the behaviour of it would change depending on which gear  your in.

mine was $750 fitted - so if you did it yourself it should be cheaper, I just needed it very quickly and didn?t have the time.

On the vacuum ones, I'd been warned off them for the turbo skyline, but I don?t know if it is a correct warning or not?

And most of the decent cruise controls should just work of the SPEED wire, not the tacho one, so it is irrelevant which gear you are in..

there is nothing wrong with the vacumn ones on a turbo car.

All turbo cars should have a hose taking vacumn off the manifold, thru a one way valve, to a vacumn resivior somewhere on the car (in the VL's its on the right hand side hidden behind the bumper.)

Even when your on boost, there is plenty of vacumn on hand to deliver power to the actuator to pull the throttle cable.

If it doesnt work, something is wrong, ive seen people have problems and blame the cruise control when I've had a look and found that the one way valve is missing or installed the wrong way around.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • UPDATE: Hi all!  As we are getting towards the end of this thread where I’ll showcase final dyno numbers and graph, I wanted to provide an update. Tao from HyperGear has done an amazing job building the custom divided T3 housing for the G30. Communication was flawless, price was great, and now the housing is estimated to arrive in 7-10 days! Very very pleased. I must add, if someone is looking for an affordable turbo and end up reading this thread, I would recommend HyperGear. Genuine brands are the way to go as their proven reliability, predictable performance, and there’s a plethora of information available for specs, flow, and more. This HyperGear recommendation is based on their excellent communication, dedication, and willingness to listen to their customers. I particularly liked their ability to create custom adaptations tailored to specific needs, which is a HUGE benefit over other brands. And if we consider the HyperGear provided dyno results, it adds reassurance knowing their turbos can compete against genuine brands. Next update will be after the dyno!  
    • I've previously seen people post up "dress up bolt kits" for RBs but don't remember seeing them specify the full contents. I can only really suggest you grab the verniers and start measuring, and keep in mind the cam cover and timing cover bolts are both quite specific with a wider unthreaded section where the bushes sit, that will make it hard to get aftermarket replacements which tend to be all thread (set screws) or for longer bolts a flat section with a shorter threaded section at the end
    • I believe there was a similar one posted by @duggyphresh. They were re-routing their battery positive cable in the way I am also trying to achieve. Sorry, I’m new to this forum, so was a bit late to the party by a few months and so reignited the old thread, as I wanted to know how they got on with doing it.
    • Wasn't there a thread on this very subject just a few weeks ago?
    • Hi all! Looking to relocate the battery to the trunk of an R34 GTT. I want to do it using as many stock GTR components as I can (including the harness protectors from the 34 GTR that run underneath along the chassis to the engine bay). So far I’ve purchased the battery tray from a 33 GTR, as the captive weld nuts are already there just asking to be used. There is also the slight issue of now having to relocate the ABS/TC/Fuel Pump Control ECU, which in GTT’s sits right above where the battery will then sit on the tray. Has anyone already achieved this, and if you have any pics that you wouldn’t mind sharing? It would be great to see how others have done it and where you put them, as there are countless holes in the parcel shelf panel to potentially use. Just trying to get some ideas bounced around, and to help uncover any potential problems I may encounter by  my choice of location. TIA for any help!
×
×
  • Create New...