Jump to content
SAU Community

Evo Practical Masterpieces

Daewoo
 Share

Recommended Posts

Daewoo Enthusiast

Daewoo

Posted
Posted

My mate rally's a 240K Coupe (and does very well)... back when he first started we were ribbing him about his choice of whale, and he stated "It's a Materpiece" and started to be called The Masterpiece.

2040588602_da3dbf9e0c.jpg

Another mate then bought a 4 door K, that, because it had four doors was practical, and became known as The Practical Masterpiece...

10 years later I found myself owning the white MR30 Hatch for a khanacross weapon... It was smashed in at the front, but had the TI wheels, which are the only thing of value... I got a new guard and and bonnet for free, inserted a welded 4.9:1 Diff, and it is now The Pratical Materpiece EVOI...

PMP002.jpg

I have the lower control arms out to get them lengthened...

I wanted a manual, and because of the panel damage am not allowed onto race circuits, so when another 2 MR30s came up on fleaBay for $500 I grabbed them... one was a front end damaged sedan (unfortunately the same side) that had all the wiring and interior eaten by Mice, but had a good engine and manual gearbox... the other a good hatch with a blown headgasket... This is Now the Practical Materpiece EVOII

PMP001.jpg

PMP003.jpg

I stripped the sedan of all the bits I wanted, and sent it to the scrapper... I stripped that back half of the interior from the hatch, lengthened the lower control arms by an inch to get more camber (and turn in required because of the locked diff)...

The idea is to keep competing in the EVOI until the EVOII is ready and then the EVOI will become a loaner thrasher, or donor car...

The springs are heavy but too low for a dirt circuit car, so I will get some new ones from all springs... I have a Cresida AFM to fit up, and a 4.9:1 crown wheel and pinnion I need to pick up... next step is to convert it to a manual, probably using a 240K box, because I can get one for nothing...

Just had the cars at home in the driveway, so thought I would post up a couple of happy snaps...

Cheers,

Daewoo

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/313298-evo-practical-masterpieces/
Share on other sites
Daewoo Enthusiast

Daewoo

Posted
  • Author
Posted
  Duncan said:
love your projects! we need some race pics and results

Next race is on April 11, I will try to get some photos or video...

As for results, there are a few other guys who have the same idea as me, have lots of fun without spending any real money... they have mostly chosen R31 Skylines, and the car is as fast as theirs... I have the traction advantage of IRS, and slightly less weight... they have a big horsepower advantage...

I am also limited because the Auto trans in my car will not go back to first if I kick it up to 2nd, so I spend a lot of time bouncing off the rev limiter in 1st, because I need the power to keep the tail out on the slower corners that Khanacrosses are mostly about...

Cheers,

Darryl

Factory 5 Mentor

Factory 5

Posted
Posted

HAH!!

I like the naming convention!!! I might adopt a similar one?

What would you call a MR30 Ti Hatch, soon to be boosted?

and can you post up the lokation for the Arpil 11 event? i have a bit of time off then, never been to a gravel event (to spectate)

Daewoo Enthusiast

Daewoo

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
  MAG86 said:
HAH!!

I like the naming convention!!! I might adopt a similar one?

What would you call a MR30 Ti Hatch, soon to be boosted?

Hopefully mine. I want to RB25/30DET one of them one of these days...

  MAG86 said:
and can you post up the lokation for the Arpil 11 event? i have a bit of time off then, never been to a gravel event (to spectate)

I'll PM you the details, it is our club only event, and the site is a bit confidential, less 'hoons' get out there and f^ck it up... if you have a car that you want to play in, it is only $40 to join the club (9 months) and $55 for a 12 Month CAMS Licence available on the day. Once you have paid that, each entry fee is either $25 or $35 I think...

  jrh001 said:
Did you say auto? You're 'racing' a 3 speed auto MR30?

Yeah... Auto :D ... it is still good fun tho... but hopefully I will get around to the conversion as soon as I can find a 240K box for free or near to...

More Pics...

RACING

PMP010.jpg

What Understeer???

PMP009.jpg

BACK IT IN

PMP007.jpg

Out for a nice Sunday Drive

PMP006.jpg

Cheers,

Daewoo

Edited by Daewoo
  • 2 weeks later...
warps Mentor

warps

Posted
Posted
  spiderclaw said:
man thats awesome, i have an R31 im about to mod for rally, only prob is thats its a 4door... oh well
What's wrong with that? There's a very quick 4 door R31 doing the club rounds up here in QLD. It was built on a very tight budget too
  Quote
where do u get ur 15" rally tires from?
Everywhere. All the big players use them once then sell them off cheap-ish. These days most of the competitors run 15's, so that's the biggest choice in tyres out there. In fact, I have a set of used A035 195x65 15" rally tyres I might be selling off in the near future (depending on how well they fit in the car).
Daewoo Enthusiast

Daewoo

Posted
  • Author
Posted
  spiderclaw said:
man thats awesome, i have an R31 im about to mod for rally, only prob is thats its a 4door...

I guess your problem is that you build up a four door, and then will always be wishing you started with a 2 door for the looks, which is valid enough... make sure you read up on the rules for whatever sort of rallying you would like to do, because unlike drifting the rules are quite specific, and limiting to what mods you can and must do...

  spiderclaw said:
oh well where do u get ur 15" rally tires from?

I just buy them from the Motorsport Tyre suppliers, Dunlop - Gary's Motorsport Tyres... they sell limited numbers of second hand tyres... but you can also buy them directly from a number of teams...

Pretty much everyone uses 15's...

Cheers,

Daewoo

warps Mentor

warps

Posted
Posted

Also, I find 4 doors more practical for rallying, specially if you mount battery, spare tyre, tools etc, in the cabin (as opposed to the boot). If you have a 2 door, the rear passenger area is pretty much useless with fixed back rally seats. You'll be surprised how much gear you store in rally cars.

Daewoo Enthusiast

Daewoo

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
  jrh001 said:
Great pics and looks like fun. Is the sedan also an auto? The sedan should have a weight advantage over the hatch.

JH

No - Buggsy is a cheat - he has a manual gb - cheater

I have a weight advantage, cause I don't have a grille or headlights :P and I'm not a fat bastard :happy:

That said, I am on my way to Karella Gearbox Factory (what we call my mate Warwick who is pretty good with gearboxes), with my MR30 box with a f^cked front housing, and a 240Z box with good housings and good ratio gears but f^cked synchros to see what magic he can weave for me...

I have some DVD Footage from the weekend, but it is in .VOB format (video) and I think I need to convert it to post on YouTube...

Cheers,

Darryl

Edited by Daewoo
FJ20DR30 Community Regular

FJ20DR30

Posted
Posted

Hey Daewoo,

about lengthening your bottom arms.. i saw this in a previous post as well and wanted to ask how much by and with the track change what effect did it have on steering feel? i assume it would effect scrub radius?

Marc

Daewoo Enthusiast

Daewoo

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
  FJ20DR30 said:
Hey Daewoo,

about lengthening your bottom arms.. i saw this in a previous post as well and wanted to ask how much by and with the track change what effect did it have on steering feel? i assume it would effect scrub radius?

Marc

Not sure about the scrub radius... I lengthened the control arms by 25mm to get 2 1/2 degrees of Negative Camber, I guess it would have widened the track by about 60mm... normally you would want the rear track to be wider than the front, so ideally would swap the rear wheels to something with a deeper dish, but I won't bother...

Since the ball joint remains in the same location relative to the strut, wouldn't scrub radius remain the same???

I went 2 1/2 degrees because of the locked diff, 2 degrees would be plenty without that... it has helped enormously with turn in... At the same time I went to R31 Steering arms to quicken the rack up (effectively shortening the steering arms by about 12mm), so with the effect of that on the Ackerman, I can't be sure of what would have driven any change of feeling...

Instead of lengthening the control arms, the ideal would be using 240Z tops, and smaller springs, and relocating the bolt holes at the top, so you could get the Neg Camber without widening the track... but that is a lot more money than the car is worth...

I was going to use R31 Lower Control Arms so I could replace ball joints, but I would have needed to lengthen them by about 75mm, and there didn't seem to be an easy way to do that...

One day, I will probably get the caster rods machined up to be adjustable so I can adjust the caster...

Cheers,

Daewoo

Edited by Daewoo

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      NC MX5

      By MBS206 · Posted

      There's a huge reason manufacturers are tuning in dead flat torque curves... Make them reliable (and more drive able)
    • GTSBoy
      AC not coming from top vents

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      What HVAC actuator is under the steering wheel? Do you mean on the RHS of the centre console, immediately to the left of your shin? If so, then yes, it is probably that one, because that is the mode door actuator, and from what I know, it's still a pain in the arse to replace. I don't know about whole dash out, but you certainly have to rip into the centre console section. I don't know if it's covered in the workshop manual, as I haven't spent much time looking at those parts of it. (and by "the workshop manual, I mean the R32 GTR one, which is the most comprehensive one we have, and it should be similar enough between that and later cars to serve as a guide).
    • dbm7
      Shifting questions

      By dbm7 · Posted

      ...oops. forgot the TCU end...
    • Sleepergm
      Custom titanium intake

      By Sleepergm · Posted

      No I got mine from a friend that had fabricated one … but I had to fit it to my setup which was a hks turbo setup. His was a Garrett -7. So one of my turbos was not a flange for one side … then I had a leak in the welds I had to find a weld shut … in the end the setup was decent priced but I spent a lot to get it fitted. A couple companies I checked would make it but you’re talking 7-9k aud with titanium. No joke mine was 6-7k even second hand after I had to fit it in Hong Kong … labour is expensive here. 
    • Kinkstaah
      NC MX5

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I'd just like to restate that I don't think anyone here is actually hating I recently sold a car part to a guy who was building a forged auto R34, with MV stall and aiming at ~450kw. I told him that I'm him, from the future and to stop after it explodes once. I told him I knew he won't listen the first time, and that's fine. But if my predictions do come true - Change direction faster than I did. I also said it's probably no coincidence that the dyno plot of a reliable turbo engine starts to look a lot like a N/A motor. :p
×
×
  • Create New...