Jump to content
SAU Community

Diagnose The Engine Failure...

JustinP

By JustinP,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

JustinP Mentor

JustinP

Posted
Posted (edited)

My engine died last night in my R34 GT-T. Basically I was driving along and suddenly I noticed it was not running on all cylinders, it was running REALLY rough. Anyway I thought (hoped) a coilpack or something had died and that I could just baby it home, but then after a couple of minutes the temp started to go up (a little - was watching on the PFC screen).

I could not pull over so I continued to baby it, but then it just started to skyrocket. I pulled straight over in a dangerous location and turned the car off. It was a really bad place to stop (basically a freeway off ramp) so i started it again as I only had to get it about another 100m's to park safetly.

It started OK and I drove it and shut off the engine as soon as I could. When I stopped the PFC read 115 degree's for water temp. I noticed a trail of water behind the car also, not sure if this was just radiator overflow or something more serious.

I left it for about an 45 minutes when help arrived. They brought water so I topped up the radiator (it had lost water, but it took less than 1 litre), then went to try and start it it, and instantly it made a horrible "siezing" kind of noise and would not turn over.

I have not inspected it further, but I am thinking it could be one of the following:

1) Blown head gasket, and maybe one of the cylinders have filled with water hence why it will now not even turn over.

2) Something wrong in the bottom end

3) Both...

Any idea's / thoughts???

Stupid cars!! Sometimes I wish I just had a normal econo shitbox like everyone else.

Edited by JustinP
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/313299-diagnose-the-engine-failure/
Share on other sites
JustinP Mentor

JustinP

Posted
  • Author
Posted
take the spark plugs out and see if the bore/s are full of coolant.

Yep, thats my first step, I will get started on the weekend :cool:

I wonder what may have caused though. It had been running a bit hot over the past few months (not too servere though), I knew the radiator was in bad shape. Ironically a new triple core alloy radiator had arrived for it on the same day it died.

The other thing was I was only running premium 95 RON fuel in it (Perth had some servere storms and every BP I went to was either shutdown or only had limited fuel available), but I was not thrashing it too much it because of the crappy fuel, and I was watching for knock and it was not too bad either.

STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted

bugger, one of the first rules is never to put cool water into a hot car as the heat shock warps and cracks things.

I would pull spark plugs and try crank it over, if water gushes out of plug holes pull the head and go from there.

JustinP Mentor

JustinP

Posted
  • Author
Posted
bugger, one of the first rules is never to put cool water into a hot car as the heat shock warps and cracks things.

I would pull spark plugs and try crank it over, if water gushes out of plug holes pull the head and go from there.

Will do.

It was hot water I put into it, luckily my dad was able to assist and bring it to me :cool:

JustinP Mentor

JustinP

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Do you still have the cam belt and so-on attached?

Sounds like an idler bearing has let go and belt has failed.

I would assume so, I did change the timing belt and both pulleys a few months ago..... It has been slightly noisy ever since though..... wonder if that had anything to do with it.

Would that explain the running on less than 6 cylinders, over heating and the leaking of water?

Thanks for everyones input by the way. I guess I really just need to roll up my sleaves and get out in the garage and start pulling it to bits.

kristafa Proficient

kristafa

Posted
Posted

sounds like head gasket, does the oil look like a caramel milkshake too?

make sure if you replace the head gasket you get the head skimmed flat. Machine shop should be able to do it for under $100

JustinP Mentor

JustinP

Posted
  • Author
Posted
sounds like head gasket, does the oil look like a caramel milkshake too?

make sure if you replace the head gasket you get the head skimmed flat. Machine shop should be able to do it for under $100

Haven't checked the oil or looked at the water properly yet, it happened late last night in a area with bugger all lighting, by the time I had finished towing it home all I wanted to do was go to sleep :cool:

I will get started on it this weekend.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Victory
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Victory · Posted

      All I can say Duncan is good luck and I hope that Neil did not run any E85 in Cheryl. I have recently experienced the full spectrum of fuel tank issues in my R33's that had been caused by E85 and contaminated fuel. When you take the cover off the top of the tank and have a look inside you will get an understanding of how easy it will be. Best case situation is clean fuel with minimal contamination. My GTR was like this and it was a very simple operation to just grab the fuel pump carrier bracket and slide it up and out of the tank. My three GTS_T's had different levels of fuel contamination that was probably caused by E85 in the fuel.  In the worst case all of the metal components in the tank had rusted to the point where there were pieces of rusted metal swirling around in the tank. This required the removal of the exhaust, the tailshaft, the complete rear cradle and the fuel tank. The components in the tank were that rusted that it took days to get the fuel pump carrier and the mounting brackets out of the tank. When the tank was finally cleaned, everything inside the tank had to be replaced. With the tank all back together I could then reinstall it in the car along with everything else that had to come out. Good luck and I hope that you find a clean tank.    
    • GabsReDeal
      New owner of a Skyline R32 GTS

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      It is a two door. It is black and also still has the OEM wheels and stereo. Exact model would be KR_R32RGFEL_SS According to GTR-Registry.com is a 2 Door Coupe; RB20DE; 2WD no HICAS; MT.F5; (11L) Projector Headlamps and Fog Lights; (12_) Electronic Active Full Auto Air Con (Climate Control); (13-14SS) V Selection -- Which seems to be accurate description of my variant. Will try to upload a few pictures soon. The OEM wheels look like the below image. Image is taken from the goo-net-exchange website.  
    • acsplit
      Breakfast Cafe By Lamanna - Saturday 18th January

      By acsplit · Posted

      Time: Saturday 18th January - 9am -10:30am Where:  Cafe By Lamanna 10 English St, Essendon Fields VIC 3041  - https://g.co/kgs/mhVKvAB Registration: So we can give the cafe a heads up on rough booking numbers please rsvp below Registration Link: https://forms.gle/wPtfj9Gp8bvCiouo8
    • Ozdavroz
      New owner of a Skyline R32 GTS

      By Ozdavroz · Posted

      Welcome Gabriel. At least your car has a glorious RB and not the shitty CA18. As MBS206 mentioned all the good bits can be added later. Two doors or four?
    • MBS206
      New owner of a Skyline R32 GTS

      By MBS206 · Posted

      And half of them have been converted to turbos.
×
×
  • Create New...