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I was at the wreckers, the VN commodore is a nearly perfect fit.

Call Randy at NISSCO in Bayswater and ask what he put into the ' moster red dr30 that vincent had' i think it was some sort of falcon or commodore.

If youre after an alloy one, look at the S13 range for the SR20 or CA18det. the inlets/outlets are in defferent locations, im not 100% familiar with what goes on with th FJ but the radiators are CHEAP from tawian, like less than $200 landed, off the ebay...

there are real pricey ones, and also cheapi ones...

but the fitment is near spot on too.

I have a 3 core copper Australian spec MR30 item,has inbult auto radiator cooler bult into the bottom tank. it does need a bit of a repair (stone chips in the top section of the honeycomb)

Its only worth as a spare to me for in the future, or sell it for the c0pper!!

Currently installed and running, leaks about 200ml a week.

Dunno how much its worht but fell free to make an offer. Im gatehring funds to get some exhaust mods done (the age old 'over the diff 3 inch' trick)

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Hey davo, yes everything is all dude.... you speak my langualge@!

another tip for radiator fitment, something I was quite keen to do. theere is a N13 pulsar that is NOT aus made, so the jap version. the radiator is a 3 core copper, the hoses are in the right location for the L series too.

the thing is its width (left to right) is narrower than the stock item, it leaves about 20cm on the passenger side. in this area I wanted to get a sheet of stainless and fill up the gap, but use it for the 2 intercooler pipe holes, and the cold air intake hole.

strap a thermo fan onto the rad to keep temps normal, would do a pretty good job,

i spoke this through with a ralley engineer a few years ago and he says its a great idea as teh cooler piping will be super short.

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Im gatehring funds to get some exhaust mods done (the age old 'over the diff 3 inch' trick)

Why would you want a 3" exhaust on your L24E? Even if it's turbo'd it's too big.

Remember quality is better than size when it comes to exhaust and an n/a needs a certain amount of back pressure to work, but an turbo exhaust needs none.

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another idea that Randy at Nissco suggested was an EL Falcooon aloy rad with thermos - dime a dozen and cheap at the wreckers

on another note (if andrew wanted to know) my chaser is pushing out 220kw at the wheels now :thumbsup: Bit more fun than the old dirty 30 hehe

still keen on a 240z for my next car though

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I had quotes from pwr to make up a custom ally rad based on my stock dr30 one. I'll most likely

go down this path and post results up later

~$800 later and it would do the same job as any of the ones we have just mentioned unless you plan on drag racing your DR30 and pumping it full of Nitromenthanol fuel and going all twin turbo on it lol

save ya coin for something else and get a second hand/reco radiator

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~$800 later and it would do the same job as any of the ones we have just mentioned unless you plan on drag racing your DR30 and pumping it full of Nitromenthanol fuel and going all twin turbo on it lol

save ya coin for something else and get a second hand/reco radiator

:cool:

You can't get cooler than your thermostat tells it to be... if you start having overheating problems, then spend your money on more cooling, until then, give the money to me...

Cheers,

Daewoo

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I'm getting a custom 3 row alloy radiator made up for the PNV. I don't really care about the cost, as I want the smaller filler neck so I can use the smaller 1.3 caps and I need to have the overflow going to the driver's side so that the intercooler piping can go through the radiator support panel where the overflow bottle is now. With a re vamped 2818cc capacity, I figur the extra cooling capacity wont go to waste.

Cheers, D

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i got a alloy 2core for a honda civic (yes honda civic lol) in my dr30 coolin a rb20. keeps it under 100deg on the track. was only like 150 or somethin off ebay. in/outlets would b wrong 4 a l series tho

Edited by OUTATIME
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