Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What would be more expensive...Taking the turbo out of a skyline, or putting one in?

P plater here, and i want to purchase a skyline, either r33 or r34, but my question is simple. I either get a non turbo version and whack a turbo in once i get my blacks (1 year down the track) or i get a turbo version and take the turbo out until i get my blacks then put it back in. Its a year till my full licence but i cant wait :blink:

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/313363-what-would-be-more-expensive/
Share on other sites

Yes, but i dont mind if i buy something that has work done on it, i just want to know if its expensive to take the turbo out and put it back in a year later or whether i should get a N/A model and put a tubo in later.

Its only a year, buy somethig like an r31 for under a grand or something. then get something that already has work done to it
Edited by dynafit

do a search . it gets covered weekly

oh heres and heres a clue

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Pu...a+turbo+back+in

its also still illegal as the car is registered as a turbo

Edited by lachlanw

i would have thought that i can register it as a non turbo, seing as thats what it will become..

do a search . it gets covered weekly

oh heres and heres a clue

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Pu...a+turbo+back+in

its also still illegal as the car is registered as a turbo

buy a crap car while ur on ur p's, put some money in the bank, then have a smaller loan or buy the car outright.... thats not just stupid advice so u stop asking questions, thats coming from someone having an 18 grand loan and knowing that if id had a year or more to save it could have been a 14 grand loan or less....

Dont bother converting turbo to non turbo, it will either cost lots or go like a bag of $hit.

in regards to "re-compressing your motor" you will need to change the pistons to a flat top design opose too the dome design that turbo's use (Pull the engine apart which is time consuming and money wasing in your position) also there is changing the ecu etc etc, if you want it too be faster than just taking the turbo out. If you did leave it the same minus a turbo it will be fast as a n excel.......

Best of saving for a turbo skyline if you want one this bad

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep that is correct. It allows you to adjust the short throw range from what I can tell
    • Car has been running great, I've put about 300km's of break in time on it. First thing that stands out with properly sealing rings is no more noticeable crankcase smell coming out of my catch can. This may seem insignificant, but the constant smell while driving around was infuriating. It's also nice to see my oil level remain stable. Two new issues have developed that I only noticed this weekend though. There's a very noticeable driveline vibration past 100kmh. I only noticed it now as I've been babying it under 100kmh in the backroads. This comes as no surprise as I'm running a one-piece shaft, and I paid zero attention to my driveshaft angle when I put everything back in. I also have a fair bit of voltage drop on hot starts. The starter audibly is forcing. No issues on cold start though. I must not have removed all the paint under my main block ground during assembly. I'll try and take care of both those issues this week once the kids are asleep.  I also received all the parts I was missing for my direct port setup. I will hopefully have pictures of that up soon. I'm hoping to get back on the dyno the week of June 30th as I'll be on vacation. I'm confident I should be able to make north of 500rwkw on pump gas and WMI. I'll go back again later this summer with E98, but I want to confirm my ethanol content sensor is working properly first. I've never seen it read anything but 11%. This makes sense for our 10% ethanol content pump gas here, but I would expect the occasional movement between fill ups. 
    • 75% complete. Will now need to get a new axle with 5x114.3 hubs and then figure out how to customize some mudguards for it once the wheels are on.
    • Trailer prep is underway... Lined up the wheel to get a rough indication of how it would sit Then removed all the bits (as far as possible) and gave the frame a light sand and quick lick of paint   Then added some carpet
    • okay, so I figured this out, removed needles and reinstalled after swapping the gauge face on my triple gauge for my ER34, all work and look good. I tried to do the same for the main cluster, but the main cluster gauge faces are dished, the replacement gauge face are flat, so due to the dish in the org face ,mounting backing plate (clear) and depth of the needle, the flat gauge face will not work. I notice that R34 gtr gauges are flat, appears to be different clear backing plate that aren't dished. are these available, or what have others done to install flat gauge faces?
×
×
  • Create New...