Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Okay, Basically i had my car repaired (UC Torana with RB25DET) at a local panel shop after hitting a roo.

Now, I get my car back and a week later i decide to check my K & N filter (standard R33 airbox) due the fact driving on dirt roads.

I find that there is no longer an air filter. I've traveled 1,000 klms since I picked it up. I know it was there and I have even a photo of the car in the shop from the assessor with evidence that it was there.

They are claiming that it was never there and I must have taken it out.

I've bought another one in the meantime, but I still need some help.

Someone from the Sale area in a dark grey/silver Skyline took a picture of my engine bay after we had a chat about cars. His photo may show the missing air box abit more clearer.

Also if anyone was offered or bought a stolen K & N filter to suit a R33 skyline I want to know. Not to get you in trouble, but whoever sold it to you in the first place.

All this happened probably about 4-8 weeks ago.

Any help would be great ad I don't want them (thief from panel shop) to get away with it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/313364-anyone-from-sale-vic-area/
Share on other sites

Honestly, its a K&N filter. They're peanuts.

Just tell everyone you know what dodgy bastards they are and never go back to them.

I highly doubt anyone is out there making a huge profit off selling stolen (and used) panel filters.

Honestly, its a K&N filter. They're peanuts.

Just tell everyone you know what dodgy bastards they are and never go back to them.

I highly doubt anyone is out there making a huge profit off selling stolen (and used) panel filters.

I know that it's only $109, but it's the fact that some one thinks that they can get away with it. I want the person responsible to admit and be punished for doing it.

What would you do in my shoes? Would you be happy that your turbo has been sucking dirt, bugs and dust for 1,000 klms?

I've actually had a similar incident where my mechanic left my the upper part of my air intake disconnected.

I discovered it pretty quickly, and yes I was pissed, but there is nothing you can do.

You have no proof, and they're not going to admit it. I just told all my mates never to go to that joint, and never went back.

just tell everyone u know to avoid them if they are that dodgy.. lots in melb but not allowed to mention it..

Well said, Melbourne sucks ass sadly. Count your losses and move on, but im sure if it happened to me i would do the same as you are. Best of luck =[

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
    • You talking about the ones in the photo above? I guess that could make sense. Fixed (but flexible) line from the point up above down to the hubcap thingo, with a rotating air seal thingo. Then fixed (but also still likely flexible) line from the "other side" of the transfer in the hub cap thingo up to the valve stem on the rim. A horrible cludge, but something that could be done. I'd bet on the Unimog version being fed through from the back, as part of the axle assembly, without the need for the vulnerable lines out to the sides. It's amazing what you can do when you have an idea that is not quite impossible. Nearly impossible, but not quite.
×
×
  • Create New...