Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hahah we used to go through 1500L of diesel in around 6 hours in the Tanks when I was in the army, 1500hp + 60Tonnes = Bad economy lol

that would be comparable to a commercial plane right? have to be close...

  • Replies 186
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Spoke to Yavuz last night.

Steve, he mentioned you had issues with the CAS when the big power runs were being done about 6000 rpm? Did you just leave it or did you do that harmonic balancer thingo? He said its about 2K to do... Not too keen on that!

Yeah bloody hell that was annoying. It still made 400rwkw by 5000rpm though lol

The problem was the signal to the ECU. The balancer thing he's got is the way to go without a doubt though, i tried to do it the way SAS do it (who said they'd done it to hundreds of cars etc), and that was a complete waste of money and time. Hindsight is a prick, in hindsight i wouldve got the balancer Yavuz sells and been done with it.

End result? Wasted $550 on a sensor that hardly works and can rev to 8000rpm. I used to love wringing its neck higher but not anymore until i get one of those balancers from him, and I will do that one day but to be realistic its putting down enough power by 8000rpm anyway. How far did you want to rev to?

Yeah bloody hell that was annoying. It still made 400rwkw by 5000rpm though lol

The problem was the signal to the ECU. The balancer thing he's got is the way to go without a doubt though, i tried to do it the way SAS do it (who said they'd done it to hundreds of cars etc), and that was a complete waste of money and time. Hindsight is a prick, in hindsight i wouldve got the balancer Yavuz sells and been done with it.

End result? Wasted $550 on a sensor that hardly works and can rev to 8000rpm. I used to love wringing its neck higher but not anymore until i get one of those balancers from him, and I will do that one day but to be realistic its putting down enough power by 8000rpm anyway. How far did you want to rev to?

Yeah well if it comes down to it i will do it. But seriously I am so sick of spending money on this thing. Haha. I have never heard of this issue before.... either here or on the pommy forum. Could it be something to do with the 30 block and being taller then the 26 block? The extra length on the timing belt flopping around? Maybe?

I have my limiter set to 8500 just so i dont hit it and I never rev it harder then 8 on the Nismo dash. Yavuz did spin it to 9 when he tuned it 12 months ago and it was still making over 370 rwkw... which was it's peak just over 5K (i think).

take it to 9krpm stevo & paul :P

Shush you! haha. 8 is enough. I still have the junk arse N1 oil pump in mine. Its done 20,000 kms....I would hate to smash it to bits and cost me a engine!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Por qué no los dos? Body colour red with black stripes down centre, onto bonnet and bootlid.
    • From my bolts, standard M8 with 1.25mm thread pitch (M8x1.25mm).    Length is 19mm under the head and has a captive 18mm OD flat washer.   20mm length from a bolt shop is what you'll be able to get.   Make sure they're zinc plated.    If you're concerned about strength, grade 8.8 will be more than enough. Original PN is 01121-04971.  Now discontinued according to Amayama but that's because it's one of the parts that's been captured by the Heritage program, which explains the ridiculous price.   New PN is 01121-RHR20: https://nismodirect.com/nismo-heritage-bolt-pin-hinge-hood-bnr32-nissan-skyline-gt-r-01121-rhr20-01121-04971/ About AUD33 converted from Yen in the above link but that's just one example. Interesting that the hinge-to-body bolts are still available non-heritage.....PN 08116-8161G around $2 each (amayama).    Same thread but 16mm long.
    • Well, if that filter was impeding fluid flow, then it could have similar effects to faulty solenoids. The TCU will register a fault when it does something (ie, changes the state of a solenoid) and does not detect the required result. If there are other causes that can make the same lack of result, then they will be indistinguishable to the expected cause for which the TCU has a code.
    • Yellowjackets, red ones, blue ones (other than Splitfire) have all been demonstrated to be unreliable on turbo engines. That unreliability can be anything from outright failure (ie, 4 out of a set of 6 working out of the box) to just not being strong enough for the task, on a boosted engine. Not enough of us care about NA engines to know whether that unreliability is an issue for the undemanding needs of an NA RB20. I should think though that the DIS-008 should fit the 20. There's not really any reason for the head/coil mounting area to be any different on those 2 Neos. I wouldn't be buying Splitfires, or any other old tech coilpack, for a car in this day and age though. I would buy modern pencil coils and do what needs to be done to adapt them to the loom. That's relatively trivial these days, with numerous kits for fitting R35, or Audi, or Yaris/Corolla coils.
    • Keen to see how much work is needed to get an abandoned Skyline going. My R32 has been sitting idle for three years or so but finally got some time to get it going again. (Also lurking SAU and trying to hit 10 posts so I can start my own intro thread with pics)
×
×
  • Create New...