Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So much information on this website, it's quite incredible :D

I'm in the slow process of learning about my car, and what are the things I can do in order to gain more performance. Recently I was laid off my job, so I seem to have a bit of time to work on it, though not a whole bunch of money.

I own a 1996 R33 GTS25T S2 Auto. Car is clean, engine feels tight and so does the transmission (it's an auto).

I have a stainless Nismo exhaust (I guess this is what you call a cat back?) going back to the cat. Have been told by a few people it's a real good one. I believe it's 3". Also had the compliance pos cat cut out, and a high flow Hurricane installed. Only other mod I've done is remove the air box, and mount a pod.

So that brings me to where I am now. I understand people can do all kinds of things to their cars, but I simply do not have the money to go dropping in replacement turbos, and all other kinds of gizmos. So really I'm looking for the best bang for the buck performance increasers

I will take it to a dyno, but not just yet. Want to have a few things completed before then. Will check or replace the O2 sensor, plugs (no idea what to replace them with), looking at what kind of oil to use (the oil thread just gave me a headache as I'm now less sure of what to get -- Motul, Purple, Mobil, what weights, then differing opinions lol), will have the injectors cleaned by the dyno guy when I take it in as well. Also looking at what transmission fluid to use, as the car is surely in need of a filter change. Not sure what other fluids I should check on in terms of better performing products.

At this stage, I don't think a turbo upgrade or anything to do with the turbo is in the budget. I have my stock SMIC, and was thinking of putting in a FMIC, or, I've read maybe a SMIC from the R34 GTT might give some more performance with very little installation work. What about the R32 and R33 GTR FMIC? Can they be installed into a R33 with minimal fuss? That's my other plan, is to keep the car looking as stock as possible. I really don't want to be cutting the body work, have all kinds of mesh and other "addons". If possible, want to keep it looking like stock. Still I don't know what direction to take as far as upgrading the intercooler goes. Seen cheap kits, expensive kits and not sure what to do. It seems once you do this, then you have to replace "that" and upgrade "this" and it goes on and on lol.

I know there are tons of other things guys have done to their cars, but for me it's unattainable due to cost. But I know I can still do some things, and thus am putting out the call for help in this area. I am handy with tools and can do some things myself, so that can save me labour costs etc. I've installed a new stereo, back speakers, and just finished putting in a keyless entry system. Have been methodically going over the car interior and such. But soon I will be done there, and it will be time for the performance side of things.

Looking forward to learning more about my car, and putting some of that knowledge into practice. Had fun so far :O

PS. I live on the Gold Coast. If anyone's working on their cars down here and need any extra pairs of hands, let me know. Would love to meet some people, learn more and help out where I can :(

Edited by KrazyKong
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/313437-ahhhh-my-head-is-about-to-explode/
Share on other sites

bbmtpwkkgrhqmokikeq4123.jpg

I found this on ebay from 999automotive in Brisbane -

SKYLINE R32 R33 RB25/RB20 3" STAINLESS DUMP/FRONT PIPE

Item Name: STainless steel Dump pipe and Front pipe for NISSAN SKYLINE

Application: GTST R32 / R33 RB25 RB20

Spec: OUTLET DIAMETER: 3"

Color: CHROME

Description:

- Large diameter gives better exhaust flows

- Bolton to stock turbo and exhaust

- Made out of Stainless Steel 304

HI FLOW DESIGN - EASY INSTALLATION

Price is $245. Picture has the N*power logo on it. Is this a fair price for a stainless dump pipe? And is this one I've found a good one to get?

f182_12.JPG

999automotive also sell an intercooler kit for the R33 for $345.

YOU ARE BIDDING ON a set of HIGH QUALITY ALUMINUM

INTERCOOLER + PIPING KIT for NISSAN R33 RB25DET

THE BIDDING JUST for PIPING KIT + SILICON hoses + clamps

High quality , HIGH FLOW DESIGN

600mm x300mm x76mm intercoolers

bar and plate

3 inch inlet/outlet

POLISHED INTERCOOLER - HIGH FLOW DESIGN

EASY INSTALLATION!!!

we can also supply the Tube and Fin INTERCOOELR (KLS POWER SPIRIT)

I guess this is a KLS? kit. Not sure on quality or if it's half decent for the price.

So PM-R33, dump pipe first. Then intercooler?

Have a look through the RB25 results thread (in this section just above where this thread appears).

In there you can get a bit of an idea of what mods others have done and their results before spending money on parts yourself.

One thing i can definatly recommend is to not buy something, then fit and tune then buy something else. Having my time again i would just have a huge pile of parts and a stock car, then all in one go fit them and tune it up :(

I would get a dump pipe to complete the exhaust system. Complete turbo back exhaust should be the 1st mod done.

Intercooler upgrade (either to R34 SMIC or full FMIC), the SMIC is a direct bolt-on to the existing pipes & requires no modification while most FMIC kits will require some kind of modfiication to the bars.

Boost controller (& up boost to ~10PSI) I'm currently just using a basic bleed valve & it does the job fine.

Some kind of engine management (Piggy back like SAFC 2 is fine at this stage) & get it tunned.

This should bring most 33s to ~180 to 200rwkw.

Edited by Mayuri Krab

Put your stock airbox back in with a good washable panell filter, then run an extra duct to it. Install a front mount intercooler, I wouldnt bother with a 34 side mount. If you still have any budget left over, install a reasonable dump pipe and down pipe (from the back of the turbo to the cat).

After that, install a boost guage and bleed valve to run 10psi (Adjust it at night when it's cold).

Use this thread (I know its for the R34 but the mod guide is the same)

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ni...Mo-t282082.html

As it says in more detail:

1. Finish Exhaust off

2. Up the boost

3. Tune

Also becareful with the intercooler kit pictured above as cops dont like those ones that you need to cut a hole for. I recommend a return flow cooler if you are worried about that sort of thing.

Edited by Harey

krazykong, im in exactly the same boat! learning as much as i can about the car, no money, cheap mods, and just tryong to get familiar with all the info that's around.

there's a massive thread in the stick at the top of this forum on spark plugs. and there's a fair bit of info about on what to do.

yeah get a front/dump pipe combo with the separate wastegate pipe.

that idea of running a second duct from the stock airbox is pretty sweet too

Nah do the cooler before upping boost, as excess heat generated by the higher boost wont be handled well by the stock SMIC.

The best next steps are I think:

Dump pipe and Front pipe: Gives you a slight increase in boost just by freeing up the exhaust gas flow. Also dont buy any ebay items. It sounds like you care about your car so dont punish it by putting ebay shit on it. The minimum I would consider is Just Jap's Dump and Front one piece pipe. They fit well.

FMIC: Buy the Just Jap return flow cooler. No cutting, its legal, and the cooler compressed air gives you more power. Again no ebay shit here.

Up the boost: No need for a bleed valve, grounding the stock solenoid will give you about 10psi, if you dont already get it from your free flowing exhaust. You can read more about this if you search.

One thing i can definatly recommend is to not buy something, then fit and tune then buy something else. Having my time again i would just have a huge pile of parts and a stock car, then all in one go fit them and tune it up :(

So true! Every mod along the way was going to be my last. 4 tunes later, and more bolt-ons have accumulated in the corner of the room. lol

Have a look through the RB25 results thread (in this section just above where this thread appears).

In there you can get a bit of an idea of what mods others have done and their results before spending money on parts yourself.

One thing i can definatly recommend is to not buy something, then fit and tune then buy something else. Having my time again i would just have a huge pile of parts and a stock car, then all in one go fit them and tune it up :banana:

This has been my plan from the get go :P. I don't have unlimited funds to keep going back to a tuner. So will install everything first, then do the tune.

I would get a dump pipe to complete the exhaust system. Complete turbo back exhaust should be the 1st mod done.

Intercooler upgrade (either to R34 SMIC or full FMIC), the SMIC is a direct bolt-on to the existing pipes & requires no modification while most FMIC kits will require some kind of modfiication to the bars.

Boost controller (& up boost to ~10PSI) I'm currently just using a basic bleed valve & it does the job fine.

Some kind of engine management (Piggy back like SAFC 2 is fine at this stage) & get it tunned.

This should bring most 33s to ~180 to 200rwkw.

Picked up an excellent condition ARC return flow intercooler yesterday. It's ready to drop straight into the R33, so the only things needed to do will be to make screw holes, and possibly cut some of the front plastic bumper. Am very happy with this choice as it will eliminate cutting holes into the frame and should be neat & tidy. Also this cooler is one hell of a unit too :(

Put your stock airbox back in with a good washable panell filter, then run an extra duct to it. Install a front mount intercooler, I wouldnt bother with a 34 side mount. If you still have any budget left over, install a reasonable dump pipe and down pipe (from the back of the turbo to the cat).

After that, install a boost guage and bleed valve to run 10psi (Adjust it at night when it's cold).

Interested to know why going back to the stock airbox with additional duct would be better than a pod?? I only have one of those $50 drift pods from Autobarn, but surely even that gives better airflow than the airbox?

Nah do the cooler before upping boost, as excess heat generated by the higher boost wont be handled well by the stock SMIC.

The best next steps are I think:

Dump pipe and Front pipe: Gives you a slight increase in boost just by freeing up the exhaust gas flow. Also dont buy any ebay items. It sounds like you care about your car so dont punish it by putting ebay shit on it. The minimum I would consider is Just Jap's Dump and Front one piece pipe. They fit well.

FMIC: Buy the Just Jap return flow cooler. No cutting, its legal, and the cooler compressed air gives you more power. Again no ebay shit here.

Up the boost: No need for a bleed valve, grounding the stock solenoid will give you about 10psi, if you dont already get it from your free flowing exhaust. You can read more about this if you search.

Well I went to 999 Auto yesterday and the retards didn't even have the front pipe in stock. I did check before driving all the way up to Brisbane from the Gold Coast, and they said they had it. They wouldn't even budge on their ebay price either, and I had cash. So walked out the store and someone else will benefit from my purchase. Will checkout what Just Jap have.

Will look at the boost part of things later. Had read but now don't remember too much about it, of the grounding the stock solenoid, so will look at that, or maybe just a simple t piece might suffice.

I also picked up a set of GTR front and rear strut braces in great condition. Plus a Walbro GSS294 fuel pump that's been pulled from a R33. It's all installed on a bracket, so should be a straight swap. Been told I need to get an SAFC II or NEO?? to go in combination with the fuel pump.

Yeah, ARC intercooler should be nice. Much better than JJ, that's for sure...

Stock airbox flows plenty & as its sealed from the engine-bay sucks in much colder air. Pod only good if you make up a heatshield or airbox for it & have a CAI. People make 350+rwkw on standard airbox with high-flow filter & custom intake. & its legal...

Would definitely look into grounding the solenoid. Very easy to do & looks completely standard + you cant safely raise boost any more than 10psi anyway which is achievable with grounded solenoid.

GTR strut bars & walbro should all be pure bolt-on.

& lastly you don't NEED a SAFC II or Neo with fuel pump. Even with a bigger pump the injectors wont put out any more fuel...

As mentioned would see if Nistune is available for auto-trans. For the tiny bit extra it will cost has a LOT more potential for now & especially down the track

forget everyone who suggests more power.

if you want to go faster fit some bigger sway bars (about $200 front and rear from whiteline) and $1000 of really good road tyres.

and practice your driving skills instead.

forget everyone who suggests more power.

if you want to go faster fit some bigger sway bars (about $200 front and rear from whiteline) and $1000 of really good road tyres.

and practice your driving skills instead.

Thats true if hes trying to go faster on a track or twisties in the hills. However, 95% of street driving is in a straight line and sway bars and tyres wont help you (tyres only if you have too much power for your current tyres).

Also, it doesnt take much skill to accelerate in a straight line :O

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Very decent bit of kit. Definitely black it out I reckon.  
    • Because people who want that are buying euros. The people with the money to buy the aftermarket heads and blocks aren’t interested in efficiency or making -7 power, they’re making well over 1,000hp and pretty much only drive them at full throttle  best way to way make money is know your customer base and what they want and don’t spend money making things they don’t want. 
    • It's not, but it does feel like a bit of a missed opportunity regardless. For example, what if the cylinder head was redesigned to fit a GDI fuel system? It's worth like two full points of compression ratio when looking at modern GDI turbo vs PFI turbo. I'm pretty reliably surprised at how much less turbo it takes to make similar power out of a modern engine vs something like an RB26. Something with roughly the same dimensions as a -7 on an S55 is making absolutely silly power numbers compared to an RB26. I know there's a ton of power loss from things like high tension rings, high viscosity oil, clutch fan, AWD standby loss, etc but it's something like 700 whp in an F80 M3 vs 400 whp in an R33 GTR. The stock TF035HL4W turbos in an F80 M3 are really rather dinky little things and that's enough to get 400 whp at 18 psi. This just seems unwise no? I thought the general approach is if you aren't knock limited the MFB50 should be held constant through the RPM range. So more timing with RPM, but less timing with more cylinder filling. A VE-based table should accordingly inverse the VE curve of the engine.
    • I've seen tunes from big name workshops with cars making in excess of 700kW and one thing that stood out to me, is that noone is bothering with torque management. Everyone is throwing in as much timing as the motor can take for a pull. Sure that yields pretty numbers on a dyno, but it's not keeping these motors together for more than a few squirts down the straight without blowing coolant or head gaskets. If tuners, paid a bit more attention and took timing out in the mid range, managed boost a bit better, you'll probably see less motors grenading. Not to name names, or anything like that, but I've seen a tune, from a pretty wild GT-R from a big name tuner and I was but perplexed on the amount of timing jammed into it. You would have expected a quite a bit less timing at peak torque versus near the limiter, but there was literally 3 degrees of difference. Sure you want to make as much as possible throughout the RPM range, but why? At the expense of blowing motors? Anyhow I think we've gone off topic enough once again lol.
    • Because that’s not what any of them are building these heads or blocks for. It’s to hold over over 1000hp at the wheels without breaking and none of that stuff is required to make power 
×
×
  • Create New...