Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

When riding the clutch, particularly up my driveway, it will frequently begin to make a horrid grinding/drilling sound. I've noticed that if I push the clutch in, then attempt to go again, it just starts making the sound immediately once more. The only thing that will stop it from happening when I try to move again is if I let the clutch out for a few seconds in neutral. It also will occasionally (depending how long I allow it to make the sound) give off a strong burning metal smell....similar to an actually clutch smell, but distinctly not.

Also, recently there will be a very faint chirping/circulating squeak sound coming from the clutch area when idling in neutral, which disappears with even the *SLIGHTEST* touch of the clutch pedal...

Could this indicate a problem with my thrust bearing? The clutch is only about a year old, and has only done just under 20,000kms. I have only ridden it twice at about 3,000rpm for a second or two by accident, trying to get out of stupid traffic...though this smell is different to the above one. Otherwise, I am very easy going on the clutch itself, particularly changing gears. I wouldn't expect it to be damaged from use or worn out, which is why I don't think it's the cause.

The clutch is an Exceedy (I think heavy duty) organic

Thoughts?

yeh my money would be on the release bearing.

When riding the clutch, particularly up my driveway, it will frequently begin to make a horrid grinding/drilling sound. I've noticed that if I push the clutch in, then attempt to go again, it just starts making the sound immediately once more. The only thing that will stop it from happening when I try to move again is if I let the clutch out for a few seconds in neutral. It also will occasionally (depending how long I allow it to make the sound) give off a strong burning metal smell....similar to an actually clutch smell, but distinctly not.

Also, recently there will be a very faint chirping/circulating squeak sound coming from the clutch area when idling in neutral, which disappears with even the *SLIGHTEST* touch of the clutch pedal...

Could this indicate a problem with my thrust bearing? The clutch is only about a year old, and has only done just under 20,000kms. I have only ridden it twice at about 3,000rpm for a second or two by accident, trying to get out of stupid traffic...though this smell is different to the above one. Otherwise, I am very easy going on the clutch itself, particularly changing gears. I wouldn't expect it to be damaged from use or worn out, which is why I don't think it's the cause.

The clutch is an Exceedy (I think heavy duty) organic

Thoughts?

$800 will get you a full clutch kit replacement.

4 hrs labour is about the usual + bearing $40 if the clutch is ok. so say about half.

the thrust bearing itself will cost stuff all, the labour can obviously get a little pricey as your gearbox needs to come out

I don't anticipate there being an issue with the clutch, unless it is faulty. Otherwise it has received very little abuse whatsoever, and symptoms/troubleshooting is suggesting otherwise. At least that's some food for thought tho, thankyou. If the clutch is bung, I don't know whether I'll just leave it be for now, and get a good double plate and possibly new flywheel further down the track, or rip it out and sell it to my mate for sweet shit all...ehh we'll see, but if it's just the bearing then that's not much at all.

Thanks for the input :(

Pretty sure from what I've read the symptoms you're describing with the noise (with pressing clutch pedal) indicate more an input shaft bearing noise?

IE:

Foot off the clutch = noisy/rattling

foot on the clutch = noise instantly goes away

Input shaft bearing in gearbox is fked too Jrm, but I know that noise. It's the horrid grinding/drilling noise when I ride the clutch a little bit (1000-1500rpm) up my driveway that is the main symptom.

When I let my foot off at idle in neutral, it makes the sandy sound of the input bearing, but there's a slight chirping sound somewhere else. This goes away the instant I touch the clutch pedal and apply the TINIEST bit of pressure (not even depressing it at all, just enough to "load" or touch the thrust bearing)

I had the exact same issue with my old crappy NPC button clutch - it did not want to be riden at all.. Changed the entire clutch, pressure plate, release and spigot.

The clutch was worn badly from improper fitment, but not sure if it was that or the spigot that caused it. Either way do your self a massive favour and ensure that the idiot who fits it cleans the entire assemebly and bell housing of all grease, and use graphite powder for assembly instead. Demand it!!

Input shaft bearing in gearbox is fked too Jrm, but I know that noise. It's the horrid grinding/drilling noise when I ride the clutch a little bit (1000-1500rpm) up my driveway that is the main symptom.

When I let my foot off at idle in neutral, it makes the sandy sound of the input bearing, but there's a slight chirping sound somewhere else. This goes away the instant I touch the clutch pedal and apply the TINIEST bit of pressure (not even depressing it at all, just enough to "load" or touch the thrust bearing)

Where did you take your car to get the gearbox checked and how much, having troubles with my box,

Cheers

  • 3 weeks later...

Hey Troy, I'm sorry to hear about your clutch issues, as you know I replaced the clutch for you before I sent it down when you bought it (can't beleive its been over a year!)

The clutch in it is a Exceedy Sports Organic with a upgraded pressure plate from a R32 GTR HD kit. All parts were installed brand new and correctly by my one and only trusted mechanic.

It sounds from whats written here, your slave or throwout bearing could be the culprit, as for the heavy grinding at low revs, thats sounds more than likely a gearbox gear issue, ie your Input shaft, syncros ?

What was the result of dropping the box?

  • 3 weeks later...

Didn't drop the box, and yeah Zac I'm not sure if I've worded things right, but it's definitely not the gearbox. Technically the internals of the box are more or less stationary when it happens.

Good thing is I don't think it's happened since I said I was going to get the box dropped (which again, never went through)

The workshop I took it to said they sprayed some lube on a few bits (sounded to me as though they only did the pivot boot thingy which squeaked a little sometimes like rubber on rubber), but they may have lubed the thrust bearing too? if that's both possible to do, and possible without droopping the box...

So yeah Sorry Usamah, can't really help. Though if you understood what I was saying exactly and you're having the same sound...and not all the time, it might be the thrust bearing too. If you can drop your own gearbox out, have a look, otherwise the labour won't be cheap to have a look. I was advised to just deal with it until it gets worse, because if my suspicions were correct, when it finally eats shit, a thrust bearing is rather cheap anyways.

  • 5 months later...
Also, recently there will be a very faint chirping/circulating squeak sound coming from the clutch area when idling in neutral, which disappears with even the *SLIGHTEST* touch of the clutch pedal...

Sorry to bump up thread but this is all i could find.... Im having this squeaky noise coming from the clutch area as well, and as Trozzle said, with a very light push onto the clutch, the noise goes away.... what could this be? should i be worried?

Thanks.

It will be your spigot bearing in the back of the crank or the throw out bearing is shot.... that is all, but you will need to take out the gearbox to do both.. Remember to soak the new spigot bush in oil before installation.

Thanks for that... any harm/danger leaving these alone for now? or should i do something about it now? (looking at buying a new clutch but not sure)

Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes...but look at the numbers. There is a tiny tiny fraction of the number of Joules available, compared to what is used/needed. Just because things are "possible" doesn't make them meaningful.
    • Thanks for taking the time to post that ! If anything changes or happens please do update us. 
    • Somehow Vertimass/Oak Ridge National Labs has figured out a catalyst that can convert ethanol into C9-C10 hydrocarbons in basically a single step without ending up with a bunch of ethylene or similar waste products: https://patents.google.com/patent/WO2023224867A1/en I still don't think anything like this will keep us from needing to transition to EVs regardless along with all kinds of other electrification, but things like this will go a long way towards alleviating the problem of how to electrify things like planes. Renewable diesel is seemingly an easier problem as well, Chevron is already running refineries for the stuff and the primary feedstock is tallow and other waste fats from agriculture.
    • Ok so I have sorted everything with my uniclutch and  i can offer up a bit of feedback and some things that might help others.    I found problems with factory damper line. Weird shit and had trouble with peddle adjustment    I used this https://au.gktech.com/products/r33-gts-t-skyline-braided-clutch-line?_pos=2&_sid=22b01b9b9&_ss=r Also when adjusting peddle leave a bit of play. You can get into a over stroke condition easy.. Make sure you can push the slave forward after adjusting to confirm fluid can return to master then you will need to pump it up heaps…..not sure why but that’s how it is.    last thing the splined adapter is machined perfectly. If your input shaft is old like mine was I would put a bit of valve grinding paste on it and stroke it like a 15 year old. Just to give it a tad more clearance and to better match it to the spline.    reason is on a near flat shift I have had situation where the peddle returns a millisecond after you lift from the clutch. No slip or anything but I reckon this is due to tolerance on the spline being way tighter than stock clutch and binding for a sec. I think this will go away but also my spline was old. Box is old so I guess I should have checked better. It’s a super neat fit.    it feels light as and holds awesome without any noise    
    • My Fuga Hybrid is JDM, 2014 model but very similar to the V37 from the looks of things..same platform just physically larger and very comfortab;e
×
×
  • Create New...