Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thanks mate!

Ron: the SR is good for about that 280-300kw mark. Its just about control factors. If on 98 a little ping will do a lot of pop at that level, but if tuned safely (like on E85) they are pretty OK.

For reference my 'built motor' is nothing but a refreshed stocker with forged pistons. Im reusing the crank and rods and aiming for a motor that will never see more than 350 even if I do go crazy in the long run. It will probably never see over 300 in reality.

Because the last tune was close to 430 RWKW. Different head and a few different mods I wanna see what these little things can do. They should crack 450 without too much trouble.

-5's aren't too bad, A Z32 at Unique Autosports just cracked 447rwkw on 21psi and pump fuel with them.

are you saying someone nearly cracked 600rwhp with -5's at 21psi ??

From what he's said he has 3" Intakes on the turbos but they are run of the mill -5's apart from that.

http://www.aus300zx....2&postcount=358

Edited by Super Drager

Thanks mate!

Ron: the SR is good for about that 280-300kw mark. Its just about control factors. If on 98 a little ping will do a lot of pop at that level, but if tuned safely (like on E85) they are pretty OK.

For reference my 'built motor' is nothing but a refreshed stocker with forged pistons. Im reusing the crank and rods and aiming for a motor that will never see more than 350 even if I do go crazy in the long run. It will probably never see over 300 in reality.

Should go a td06sl2 20g 8 cm but with billet compressor wheels

Transistient boost response will be better and get maybe 10kw more up top

Hypergear can get them or gtpumps or you can get kando to make one as kamak is making billet compressor wheels now and kando get there turbos from them

From what he's said he has 3" Intakes on the turbos but they are run of the mill -5's apart from that.

http://www.aus300zx....2&postcount=358

I think you'll find they're 2871R's or -10's from my conversations with John from Uas who is building on it.

Could have misunderstood though.

I think you'll find they're 2871R's or -10's from my conversations with John from Uas who is building on it.

Could have misunderstood though.

Nope, take a look at the thread i posted. GT2860-5's. There is a Z32 that was built with GT2871R's though, he put down 467rwkw.

Should go a td06sl2 20g 8 cm but with billet compressor wheels

Transistient boost response will be better and get maybe 10kw more up top

Hypergear can get them or gtpumps or you can get kando to make one as kamak is making billet compressor wheels now and kando get there turbos from them

Have you seen any results of any of the above turbos vs billet wheeled versions?

my PT6262 .84 TS will be arriving this week hopefully, should in interesting. I havnt seen anyones results on this forum using one with this setup (25/30 with vct).. should be neck breakingly responsive ;), and if it taps out too early, well.. only $285 for the 1.0 housing to be sent to replace the 84 and try again.

my PT6262 .84 TS will be arriving this week hopefully, should in interesting. I havnt seen anyones results on this forum using one with this setup (25/30 with vct).. should be neck breakingly responsive ;), and if it taps out too early, well.. only $285 for the 1.0 housing to be sent to replace the 84 and try again.

Eagerly waiting results as this was the same path I wanted to go down! :) Built motor? Is the 6262 Gunna be pushed hard mate?

Have you seen any results of any of the above turbos vs billet wheeled versions?

Just had a result sent in from a SR20det customer made 282rwkws. That is our billet version, don't want to hijack the thread, check out dyno readings on my thread.

I have a billet 7175 (.94 single entry) on a single cam rb30. With a powerglide.

It's as responsive if not slightly better than a 35r (1.0x). Makes 549hp@28psi on e85. Trapped 138mph. Keen to feed it proper boost soon and see how it goes :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Hope the cans went down well at least 
    • 255 can't go wrong with the price.
    • When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit. It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing. https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.
×
×
  • Create New...