Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Get rid of existing and get braided from the turbo to the block. Personally I would get something custom made from somewhere like Enzed (well actually I make my own lines using Speedflow gear, but I assume you're not game to try that?). But plenty of people on here seem to be using the Kando lines with no problems.

FYI both 6262 and 6266 are rated as 700HP items. I'd be chasing that 66 CEA item, better tech is where its at.

The 6262 is 700hp and 6266 is 735hp.

Don't be fooled by the CEA crap, the wheel sizes have an influence over response, and the 6262 is more responsive.

It might be that the 62mm wheel is more responsive, but by how much? You can see that the CEA wheel has better blade design and would be an overall lighter rotating assembly. Im also confident the 66mm wheel would flow a metric shit load more.

If you were going 3L down the track I can see that the 66 mil would make for an intensely fast car.. but yeah I can accept 4mm in turbine exducer isn't anything to scoff at.

Thanks hanaldo, I will look at the lines a bit, sorry for the spam on the Precision thread but did you end up re-tuning your G3 again/ killawasps?

Edited by rondofj

On my car I have had a 6265, 6765,6766 and 7175. I have witnessed a 150rpm difference between a 6262 and 6265, hardly noticable, but there was also a couple of hundred revs between the 65 and 66 turbine wheels on my own car.

Yes it picked up 30hp atw but the point I was trying to make was, PTE marketed the same if not better response between the CEA wheel replacement wheels of the 65. Maybe that is the case with identical sized wheels, but from my experience not a bigger CEA vs smaller wheel. You can physically see the difference in the thickness of the older wheels.

On my car I have had a 6265, 6765,6766 and 7175. I have witnessed a 150rpm difference between a 6262 and 6265, hardly noticable, but there was also a couple of hundred revs between the 65 and 66 turbine wheels on my own car.

Yes it picked up 30hp atw but the point I was trying to make was, PTE marketed the same if not better response between the CEA wheel replacement wheels of the 65. Maybe that is the case with identical sized wheels, but from my experience not a bigger CEA vs smaller wheel. You can physically see the difference in the thickness of the older wheels.

It's funny that a 3 mm larger wheel with a 62 mm front was only 150 but 1 extra mm on a 67 was alot more noticable. Hmm.

got to remember that its 1mm on the exducer but they dont tell us what they have changed on the inducer. Could be a way larger wheel in a smaller trim... or could be a smaller wheel in a larger trim. Who knows..

PJ did you ever dismantle yours to measure the inducer on the turbine side? I have always wondered why PT dont farking advertise those figures. With the smaller stuff I had a feeling they kept it to themselves because the numbers would match up to older tech T3/T4 based things. Bad for business when your marketing 'new tech'. Obviously we know overall measurements are not the be all and end all, but it would certainly raise the question.

Yes we did, and you could be onto something there :whistling: either way they worked and worked well!

It would be interesting to back to back a CEA of the same size, but after spending 10 grand of my own money on Precision turbo's, I might leave it for one of you boys to step up :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, that was one of the things we learned fast in the past with our MX5. When you drive with the top down, you are effectively standing out in the sun, 100% of the time, and not getting in any shade (because roads aren't shaded generally!). Just like standing out in the middle of a field on a sunny 27C day is a bit of a bad plan, so is sitting in a MX5 without sun protection.
    • I also just ordered some Frankenstein bolts and side mounts to fit a hard top Just in case I do find one, basically so it doesn't need to be fixed to the car with only the front latch.......and then gaffa tape to keep it in place for the RTN journey from wherever I get it
    • If your temps are fine now, you probably won't have any issues with where your vents are as they don't look right up at the windscreens high pressure area, so any differences when giving it the beans for extended happy laps would be minimal, but, they should vent heaps when stuck in traffic  Much like how that reverse cowl on my SS let "visible" heat out when stationary, but, because it was basically at the windscreen my coolant temps on the Hwy actually raised because air was being fed into it at speed (110kph), to only come back down to around 90° when I got off the Hwy And your 100% correct about the NC currently not needing vents, but, if I was to add a turbo, and a oil cooler and intercooler in front of the condenserand radiator, and then take it to the track???? It is apparently a recommend requirement if I don't want to worry about coolant or oil temp issues, but, any of the above are possible scenarios, over time As it sits now, with the triple pass radiator and stock air conditioning system, I have absolutely no issues with either temps or air conditioning efficiency, I've been basically daily driving thie car for the last month, both on the Hwy, and peak hour, bumper to bumper traffic, but, that's pretty much expected from basically a standard engine  Talking about no issues daily driving, it was 39° the other day and I was sitting in bumper to bumper traffic on the M5 and then M7, with the top down, and with the air conditioning blowing nice cold air on my feet, balls, and face, well, there was one issue, my head and arms got pretty sun burnt Note to self: leave a hat and sunscreen in the car for such days 🤣
    • I would agree, unless you need something specific to the HV motor/battery side repaired or investigated, any mechanic will be able to perform normal services, but if you prefer, maybe look for a mechanic who regularly services/repairs Nissans, the VQ engines are pretty common in the Nissan lineup.  Sorry, I can't make any suggestions, I don't live in Vic.
    • Some of them keep working fine. 9 out of 10 of them end up causing an absolute misery bleeding the system and get thrown on the workshop floor in a tantrum and never thought about again because they were never really needed and just added crap to the car that we could have done without. Same-same with HICAS, A-LSD, and various other stupidities that over eager 10x engineers thought we had to have.
×
×
  • Create New...